Purple Roofs Travels

Seattle at NightFor the first time since 2002, we returned to Seattle, and were rewarded with almost perfect weather. This great Pacific Coast city may be gloomy in the winter, but in the summer it reqards its residents with sunshine and comfortable temperatures for walking, exploring, and generally painting the town (in lovely shades of forest greet and ocean blue, of course).

Seattle Aerial ViewWe spent four nights in Seattle this go-around, and almost every minute of it seemed to be walking back and fourth through the downtown area and out and around Capitol Hill.

Seattle is surrounded by water - on the west is Puget Sound; bisecting the city is union lake, and to the east is Lake Washington, with the suburban (but ever growing) city of Bellevue on the other side.

Seattle Aerial ViewFunny story about Bellevue. Well, sort-of. Hal Sparks, known to Queer as Folk lovers as the adorable Michael, was in town to do a one-man show across the water.

Seattle Space NeedleSo Mark and I are at the Science Fiction Museum (more on that later) getting a drink from the snack bar, when this guy says "excuse me" and walks around us to get a drink from the cooler case.

Mark sees him and all he can manage is "Michael!" to which the poor guy, who is actually Hal Sparks, looks a little flummoxed. I mean, you play the one iconic role, and suddenly nobody knows your real name anymore.

Seattle Aerial ViewSo anyway, he says something nice or other, and the best I can manage is "we're big fans." You know, like when you're in a bar, and you see this amazing guy, and all you can manage is verbal diarreah? :::sigh:::

So on the off-chance that Michael... I mean Hal... actually reads this, you seemed like a really nice guy, and we're sorry we acted like idiot fans. :)

OK, so on to Seattle.

This panoramic shot is actually several that we stitched together, and was taken from Alki Beach, across the sound from Downtown in West Seattle (click on the pic for a larger view:

Seattle Panorama

As we mentioned, the weather here was fantastic - see the views of Mt. Ranier below (from close to SeaTac and from West Seattle) below - they're better in the large versions.

Mount Ranier Mount Ranier


Capitol Hill

Broadway, Capitol Hill District, SeattleCapitol Hill is the main gay neighborhood in Seattle, and was the first neighborhood to be settled after downtown. Capitol Hill is accessible to and from downtown via Pike and Pine, which is where many of the new gay and straight bars have opened up over the last few years.

Broadway is the main north-south street through this part of town, and is where youi'll find most of the GLBT businesses.

There are also two big condo projects going up here, as well as a new light rail station (still under construction):

Broadway, Capitol Hill District, SeattleBroadway, Capitol Hill District, SeattleLight Rail, Seattle

Even the church here has a rainbow sign that says "You are welcome here."

Broadway, Capitol Hill District, SeattleBroadway, Capitol Hill District, SeattleBroadway, Capitol Hill District, Seattle

Where to Shop on Capitol Hill

There's a cool record shop here - think Tower in it's heyday - called Everyday Music. Bins and bins and bins of CD's, as far as the eye could see. I found some Erasure singles I'd never found before, and they even have vinyl (if you're under 30, ask your parents what vinyl is).

Everyday Music, Seattle Everyday Music, Seattle

Where to Eat on Capitol Hill

Julia's Restaurant, Capitol Hill, SeattleWe returned to Julia’s on Broadway (at left) – a great breakfast, lunch or dinner spot with great decor – like an old-time saloon, and a stage where deag shows are held on the weekend. The people watching is great too – ask for a window seat or sit out on the street if the day is nice.

Vicace, SeattleThe food's a bit heavy - avoid the fried chicken salad, and get the dressings on the side.

There's also a cute cafe here - Vivace (at right) - where you can get a great pastry, cup of coffee, or iced tea on a hot day.

There are also two great parks here. The newest of these is Cal Anderson Park, just off Broadway - a former reservoir turned into a vibrant city park, with a really cool volcano-shaped fountain:

Cal Anderson Park, Capitol Hill, Seattle Cal Anderson Park, Capitol Hill, Seattle

Volunteer Park Water Tower, SeattleThe other park here is Volunteer Park, the cruisiest park in Seattle. There's a fantastic old water tour that's open to the public, where you can see views... and often, views.

Volunteer Park Water Tower, SeattleApparently, the metal steps echo sounds up the stairwell, making the landings here ideal for a little, um, friskyness. because you can hear folks coming up the stairs and pull your pants up.

But sometimes, tourists climb the stairs a little more quietly, and get a view they weren't expecting. <grin>

No such luck for us, though, but we did enjoy the city views. The top of the tower is a wide, open room with windows all the way around, so you can take soem great shots of the Space Needle, Lake Union, Downtown Seattle, and even Bellevue on a clear day. Worth the walk to check this place out, and who knows? You might get lucky.

Volunteer Park Water Tower, SeattleSeattle Aerial ViewSeattle Aerial View

Capitol Hill Art

Some great public art up here too:

Seattle Public ArtSeattle Public Art

Seattle Public ArtSeattle Public ArtSeattle Public Art

Where to Stay on Capitol Hill

We visited three accommodations on Capitol Hill, all gay owned:

Gaslight Inn, SeattleGaslight Inn

Our first propety is the gay-owned Gaslight Inn, on Capitol Hill (Seattle's gay district) just a few blocks from Broadway. The owner, Steve, is a great host, and is constantly improving the Gaslight - this is the second time we've visited the property, and it's always great to see Steve and to see what he's done with his Seattle B&B.

Gaslight Inn, SeattleSteve has run Capitol Hill for 31 years, and is the only guesthouse in the area with a pool where guests can swin or sunbathe in the private back yard.

The rooms are large, and each floorplan is unique. Several of the upper rooms have wide decks, with views of the Seattle skyline (at right).

Capitol Hill was the first area of the city to be developed after downtown, and The Gaslight Inn retains the historic charm of the area, combined with modern conveniences and beautifully decorated guest rooms.

The Gaslight serves a continental breakfast every morning to get you started, and is convenient to the shops and restaurants on Broadway by foot, and by car to the University (about 10 minutes away to the north) and downtown Seattle (5-10 minutes by car). You can even walk downtown from here fairly easily, but it is a decent hike.

The Gaslight Inn is perfect for anyone looking for comfortable, clean, beautifully decorated accommodations at reasonable prices, in Seattle's Capitol Hill district.

Gaslight Inn, SeattleGaslight Inn, SeattleGaslight Inn, Seattle


Foxglove B&B, SeattleFoxglove Guesthouse

Also on Capitol Hill, you'll find Foxgove Guesthouse, an Edwardian Style home on a quiet side street, about 9 (short) blocks from the shops, restaurants, and bars on Broadway.

The Foxglove is also an easy walk to Volunteer Park and to the gay bars on Pike and Pine streets, and 5-10 munites from both downtown Seattle and the University by car.

Foxglove B&B, SeattleThis historic home was built in 1905, but has been completely updated and is now a casually elegant Capitol Hill bed and breakfast.

The current (gay) owners are just the third owners since the home was built, so it was in great shape to begin with.

The Foxglove features three guest rooms, one with private bat, and the other two sharing a bathroom. The innkeeper lives on-site, and is available to give you suggestions about things to do and places to see in the Greater Seattle area.

Foxglove Guesthouse is perfect for anyone looking for a great, comfortable, clean and quiet place to stay in the heart of Capitol Hill.

Foxglove B&B, SeattleFoxglove B&B, SeattleFoxglove B&B, Seattle


Bacon Mansion B&B, SeattleBacon Mansion B&B

On the northern edge of Capitol Hill, just past the end of the Broadway retail district, you'll find one more gay owned bed and breakfast - The Bacon Mansion.

Bacon Mansion B&B, SeattleThe Bacon Mansion consists of two buildings - the main house and the carriage house, surrounding a charming courtyard with a fountain where guests can relax and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and bright colors of the flowers.

Built in 1909, this Edwardian Style home stil retains much of the historic charm. In 1984, the property suffered a major fire, and the owners brought the property up to date, adding modern conveniences while retaining many of the historic elements.

This Capitol Hill bed and breakfast has 11 rooms, two in the carriage house, and the rest in the main house. One of the Carriage House rooms is fully handicap accessible.

Perfect for gay and lesbian couples and families - this B&B is kid friendly.

Bacon Mansion B&B, SeattleBacon Mansion B&B, SeattleBacon Mansion B&B, Seattle


Downtown Seattle

City Centre, Seattle Last time we were in town, we stayed on Capitol Hill, the undisputed king of gay areas in the city. This time, we wanted to get a better look at downtown, so we stayed at the Hotel Monaco.

Most of downtown Seattle is modern, vibrant, and clean (we did find a grungy little corner between downtown and Pioneer Square, but we're quibbling) - must be all the rain that washes it all so clean in the long winters.

Where to Shop in Downtown

There are three major shopping centers we ran across down here. Our far and away favorite is City Centre (at left and below) - and not just because of the 3 (count 'em, 3) Starbucks stuffed into this 3 story, 1 square block mall. Side note: we used a starbucks finder app on our iPhone, and within a 1 mile radius of this center, there are currently 43 starbucks locations.

City Centre, SeattleCity Centre, SeattleCity Centre, Seattle

Palomino Restaurant, SeattleCity Center is the nicest of the shopping centers we visited, with beautiful artwork and a soaring three-story arcade. Here you'll also find Palomino Restaurant (at left) - great ambiance and decent food - not our favorite place on the trip, but worth a look.

Westlake Center, SeattleThe other boutique shopping center we ran across in Downtown Seattle was Rainer Square, but we found it sterile, hard to navigate, and devoid of much in the way of interesting shopping.

For a more standard mall experience, try Westlake Center - a decent urban mall that has a nice outdoor terrace overlooking Westlake Park, which had a free outdoor concert going on the day we were there - see the pic at right..

Pike Place Market, Seattle But for the truly quintessential Seattle shopping experience, try Pike Place Market (at left) - a combination fish and farmer's market, and home to the original Starbucks! But be warned, it's not for the faint of heart. If you don't like crowds or strong, fishy smells, this may not be the place for you.






Where to Eat in Downtown

When you're ready for something to eat, we've got some great places for you.

Caffe Migliore, SeattleFor breakfast, try Cafe Migliore (at right), a cute coffee bar with some fantastic pastries on 4th street - and of course we love the Italian name. Lots of room here, and wifi internet access.

Specialtys Café, SeattleThere's also Specialty's Caffe (at left), a west coast chain, not far from Caffe Migliore, and also boasting a great selection of pastries. Service here was a little slow, but the cinnamon rolls were fantastic.

For lunch or dinner, try the Purple Cafe (at right), a small local chain with a killer atmosphere. Anchored by a huge central tower of wine, complete with its own spiral staircase to access the higher bottles, this place has atmosphere and great food.

Purple Café, SeattleThe baked brie in phyllo dough was fantastic, and the ham and carmelized apple pizza was really good - highly recommended, and great street watching from the floor to ceiling windows here too.

Ruths Chris Restaurant, SeattleFor dinner, one of our perennial favorites is Ruths Chris - yes, they're a national chain, but they have some of the best steaks you'll ever taste - my mouth is watering just thinking about that sizzling slab of meat they brought to our table. <grin>

It's close to the convention center, and just around the corner from another of our favorites, the Cheesecake Factory.

Sazerac Restaurant, SeattleOne more - at Hotel Monaco, you'll find Sazerac (at right), a Cajun restaurant with a great dessert menu.

It has a cool atmosphere, and the breakfast here was really good. They also have outdoor seating - perfect for a late dessert after a play at the ACT on a warm summer night.



What to Do in Downtown

ACT Theater SeattleFor entertainment, we found a couple great things... first, there's a new theater company at the ACT theater in downtown Seattle - The New Century Theater Company. We found them through the events guide in one of the local papers, and went to see a play called Orange Flower Water.

Seattle at NightThe first interesting thing was the staging - two stands of seats, one on either side of a single room set - "U" shaped with a wall on wither side and a bed in the middle. We took our seats in the front row, and our feet were actually on the edge of the stage, putting us literally in the middle of the action.

The play was about two couples - one husband having an affair with another man's wife - and was very intense, grity, and real. But our favorite thjing about this place was that afterward, all four actors and the director sat down on the bed and engaged in a back and forth with the audience about what they liked and didn't like about the play, what they thought about the characters, and much more. If you have a free night in Seattle, look up what's playing here - you'll get high quaility theater at a very reasonable price.

On the northern edge of the downtown waterfront, you'll find the Olympic Sculpture Park, a free museum of outdoor sculpture, including some massive pieces and whimsical sculptures like the giant typewriter eraser rolling down the hillside. It takes about ten minutes to walk from end to end, but plan for a bit longer so you can enjoy each of the pieces.

Olympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, Seattle

Olympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, Seattle

Olympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, SeattleOlympic Sculpture Park, Seattle

The other big draw on the northern edge of downtown is the Seattle Center - home to the famous Space Needle and many other attraction, and site if the 1962 World's Fair.

We took the elevator to the top of the Space Needle, and took some fantastic shots of Downtown Seattle and the surrounding neighborhoods. Tickets are currently $16 for adults, $14 for seniors, and $9 for kids age 4-13.

Seattle Space NeedleSeattle Space NeedleSeattle Space NeedleSeattle Space Needle

Science Fiction Museum, SeattleThe other attraction we really enjoyed was the Science Fiction Museum/Experience Music Project. Housed in a hard-to-miss Frank Gehry-designed building, the Sci Fi Museum holds TV, movie and literature props, including the cocoon from the movie of the same name, costumes from Buck Rogers, models of spaceships, and much more. TRhe museum examines the evolution of sci-fi from te Golden Age in the 30's and 40's through today.

The music side focuses mostly on artists from the 70's and earlier, but we were greeted by Michael Jackson's sequined jacket and glove as we entered, with a tribute to the singer who had recently passed away.

$15 gets you into both museums, and who knows who you might run into?

Science Fiction Museum, SeattleScience Fiction Museum, Seattle Science Fiction Museum, Seattle

Science Fiction Museum, Seattle Science Fiction Museum, Seattle Seattle Space Needle

The Seattle Center is also where you'll find the monorail... it's a bit rickety, and only runs from here to the Westlake Mall, but it's fun to give it a try.

Where to Stay in Downtown

Hotel Monaco, SeattleHotel Monaco

Our only reviewed property Downtown, Hotel Monaco is one of the gay friendly Kimpton chain hotels.

Hotel Monaco, SeattleThe theme here is best described as "early brothel" - in the best possible way. The rooms are decorated with bold, bright stripes, thick velvet curtains, and include two flat screen TV's, a sitting area, wifi internet access (free if you sign up for the Kimpton club membership), and, best of all, your own private goldfish. The cute little guy even has a name!

The hotel has a number of great amenities, too - there's a fitness center on-site for guest use, and a great restaurant on-site - Sazerac, a cool cajun-style place with patio seating where you can enjoy dessert after an evening on the town.

There's als a small store on site with the usual sundries and touristy items for sale.

Hotel Monaco is in the heart of downtown, on 4th Street just a short walk from Pioneer Square, Pike Street Market, and the many great restaurants, entertainment venues, and shopping centers tha the city has to offer.

Hotel Monaco is great for business or leisure travelers who want to stay in downtown Seattle.

Hotel Monaco, SeattleHotel Monaco, SeattleHotel Monaco, Seattle

Downtown Architecture

Seattle has some amazing architecture - our personal favorites - the big building on the little teeny base (below left), the funky geometric library building (below center), and the curving roof over the convention center, below right.

Seattle ArchitectureSeattle ArchitectureSeattle ArchitectureSeattle Architecture

This ext set is kind of cool, too - a historic building, below left and center left, a rendition of the new, sleek and modern building to be built right behind it, and a model we found of these two buildings at the airport the next day.

Seattle ArchitectureSeattle ArchitectureSeattle Architecture Seattle Architecture

Here are a few other great buildings and architectural details from the Downtown area.

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Speaking of models, the Foster White Gallery had a cool display of architectural models going on while we were there. Here are a few... the first two are the model and then a rendering of the finished building:

Foster White Gallery, SeattleFoster White Gallery, SeattleFoster White Gallery, Seattle

Foster White Gallery, SeattleFoster White Gallery, SeattleFoster White Gallery, Seattle

Downtown Art

Art is where you find it... and Seattle has lots of great public art. From the armored pic food truck to the whale bone glas art display in a City Centre window, from bus stop art to the Eagle Outfitters window, the city is crazy with art:

Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art Seattle Public Art

Seattle Public ArtSeattle Public ArtSeattle Public ArtSeattle Public Art


Madison Park & The University District

Madison Park District, SeattleOn the far side of Capitol Hill, along the edge of Lake Washington, you'll find Madison Park. It's a cute little village where many of Seattle's well-heeled inhabitants live, and has a bunch of walkable shops along Madison, a great place to spend a morning or an afternoon shopping.

At the end of the street, there’s a cute little bar called McGilvras - decent pizza, an improbably great cheese tray, and a lake view.

And just across the street is the city’s gay beach – Madison Park – not much sand, but check it out if you’re around on a warm summer day. There's a swimming platform too - we saw some cute guys making the leap.

This is a very gay friendly area, where lots of folks from Capitol Hill have moved, and its tree-lined streets and lakeside location give it a great charm.

Just across Lake Union from Madison Park is the University of Seattle. There's a cute shopping district here along University Way that we didn't have time to explore, but we plan to go back for the next trip.

Where to Stay in the University District

Chambered Nautilus Inn, SeattleChambered Nautilus B&B

The closest B&B to the University, Chambered Nautilus is a charming Seattle bed and breakfast up on a hillside, just a block north of the University and about a five minute walk from the great shops on University Avenue.

Chambered Nautilus Inn, SeattleUpon entering the landscaped grounds, you'll probably notice the whimsical "Pork Bench", the legacy of a charity auction a couple years ago that featured artist-created pigs - it's a great centerpiece to a shaded lawn sitting area beside the inn (below).

This Georgian Colonial, built in 1915, is warm and comfortable, with a cozy common area next to a large fireplace where you can hang out and read a good book, or meet some of the B&B's other guests. There's also a bright, inviting sun porch where you can enjoy their gourmet breakfasts and free tea and cookies in the afternoon.

Chambered Nautilus is perfect for gay and lesbian couples looking for a romantic getaway, and for anyone visiting the University and the vibrant neighborhood that surrounds it.

Chambered Nautilus Inn, SeattleChambered Nautilus Inn, SeattleChambered Nautilus Inn, Seattle


Pioneer Square, SeattlePioneer Square

Pioneer Square, SeattleOne of our favorite parts of the city is the Pioneer Square District - a beautiful historic area filled with three and four story brick buildings, many of them former factories - now converted to shops, restaurants, and housing.

The Square itself is a wide open, tree-lined brick plaza fronted by a beautiful, ivy covered brick building.

This is a great neighborhood just to walk through - take a stroll down tree-lined avenues, peer into shop windows, grab a coffee at one of the local coffee shops - it's a great neighborhood to just hang out.

Pioneer Square, SeattlePioneer Square, SeattlePioneer Square, Seattle

Where to Shop in the Pioneer Square

Elliott Bay Book Company, SeattlePioneer Square boasts the city's best bookstore - the independent Elliot Bay Book Company. We visited this store on our first day, in our ongoing quest to find great Italian language books - we've been working to learn the language for the past several years, and Elliot Bay had one we'd never found before.

Pioneer Square Architecture

As in downtown, there's some great architecture down here:

Seattle ArchitectureSeattle ArchitectureSeattle ArchitectureSeattle Architecture

The city's two major stadiums, Qwest and Safeco Field, and both are at the southern edge of Pioneer Square. On our last day, we decided to go back down to Pioneer Square, and were suddenly surrounded by throngs of green-shirted lemmings - huge crowds all making their way down to Qwest Stadium, where there was some kind of soccer match. It was all a bit eerie.

Qwest Field, SeattleSafeco Field, SeattleSoccer in Seattle

This is also where the headquarters is for Starbucks - unfortunately, they are not giving tours at this time.

Starbucks Headquarters, Seattle

Pioneer Square Art

As in downtown, there's a lot of great public art in Pioneer Square:

Seattle Public ArtSeattle Public ArtSeattle Public Art

West Seattle

We didn't get to spend much time here, but we have a great companion article this month from the owners of Sweet Orange about the things to do and see in this neighborhood just across the Sound from downtown.

Where to Stay in West Seattle


Sweet Orange, SeattleSweet Orange

Of all the places we visited in seattle this trip, Sweet Orange was the only lesbian-owned property. The owners, Cassie and Morgan, welcomed us warmly, and seem to be great hosts.

Sweet Orange B&B, SeattleSweet Orange has two units - one upstairs and one downstairs. It's a work in progress - the inside is gorgeous, and features beautiful inlaid tile, lovely floors, and great color choices, but the outside is still being upgraded. There's even a Puget Sound "peek" from the upstairs unit

Each unit also includes a full kitchen, so you can cook "at home" when you want to.

West Seattle is an up-and-coming community just 10-15 minutes from downtown Seattle by car. It was the bedroom community for the local steel mill, and is now attracting many new buyers who are renovating their homes and gentrifying the neighborhood. There's a large (and growing) lesbian community here, and many gay couples are also flocking to the area.

Sweet Orange is 10 minutes from Alki Beach (with great downtown Seattle views) and a short drive from the ferry to Vashon Island. The owners live close by, and are available if needed.

The two vacation rental units at Sweet Orange are cozy and comfortable, perfect for couples or families and larger groups looking for a good-sized space in a quiet Seattle neighborhood, but close to everything Seattle has to offer.

Sweet Orange B&B, SeattleSweet Orange B&B, SeattleSweet Orange B&B, Seattle


Alki Sunshine B&B - West SeattleAlki Sunshine B&B

Also in West Seattle, Alki Sunshine B&B is in an older neighborhood, and has a rather plain profile from the street.

But that belies what you'll find inside - a clean, elegant bed and breakfast run by two very gay friendly innkeepers, Sam & Roseanne, who own the business with a sister and her partner.

Alki Sunshine B&B - West SeattleRoseanne greeted us at the door with a great sampling of foods served for breakfast each morning at the B&B - she may be modest, but she is a fantastic cook. We ate so many of the samples that we were spoiled for dinner that night - and the yam frittata was especially scrumptious.

Alki Sunshine Bed & Breakfast has tree guest rooms, two with shared bath and one ensuite, and caters to families with babies. But the star of this West Seattle B&B is the back deck - a wide, open space centered around a firepit that also includes a Puget Sound peek from the deck's eastern end. This is a great place to hang out on a nice Seattle day and relax, or chat with the owners or other guests.

This West Seattle B&B is just one block from the Seawall, and tree blocks from Alki Beach, with the great Seattle views.

Perfect for families, individual travelers and couples looking for a bed and breakfast setting close to one of Seattle's premier beaches.

Alki Sunshine B&B - West SeattleAlki Sunshine B&B - West SeattleAlki Sunshine B&B - West Seattle


Transportation

We took a limo service from the airport - it cost about $50 each way. But the day we left, the new light rail system opened, and although it doesn't reach all the way to the airport yet (you have to take a bus the last leg), it's far better than the monorail. And plans are for the system to extend to the airport by the end of the year, providing a much cheaper alternative to taxis and limos.

Zipcar in SeattleSeattle also has Zipcar... a flex car system with cars available for use in 50 US cities, Toronto, and London. Basically, you pay a yearly fee, and then you have access to any of the cars in the network. Each one has its own parking space and gas card, and you can reserve it by the hour - perfect for short trips, when you don't have your own car, or instead of a full day rental at an agency.

Each car has its own name - we rented "Captain", at left.





Things That Make You Go Hmmm...

OK, so here are our entries for the Weird this month. The first one is just an ordinary bush... that looks, um, a but nutty if you turn it upside down. As for the second? We always love a good pun.

SeattleSeattle