Editors' Notes

Mark Guzman & Scott CoatsworthWe're going into our 10th year working on the Purple Roofs site, and a couple months ago, we welcomed our 5 millionth visitor.

This month is also our 1 year anniversary of our gay mariage blog - see our Gay Marriage for All Blog here, and join the mailing list for new postings by emailing your request to info@purpleunions.com.

This Month's Travel Articles

We revisted Lake Tahoe last month - one of our favorite places in Northern California, and this month we bring you the full report.

We also have five really great columns - one from the gay travel guys on the state of the gay travel industry during these hard economic times. One on gay whale watching tours being offered in Hawaii in late January and February, from Chuck at Maui Sunseeker in Kihei. One on Turkey's Turquoise Coast from Jonathan at Shine Holidays. One from our friend, Bob Giangrasso, on Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ad one on Cairngorms National Park in Scotland from Myra at Columba House Hotel. Thanks to all our authors!

Innkeepers - write us an article about your area, and we'll include it in a future issue of this newsletter with credit and links to your website and email addresses. Contact wheretostay@purpleroofs.com for more details.

Special Offer Accommodation Notices

As always, we also have our Late Availability & Special Offer notices (196 offers in 18 countries/regions) all at http://www.purpleroofs.com/lateavailability.html, or just check your favorite destination page - these notices are also right there on the regular listings.

Travelers - Try a Home Trade Membership for Just $75 for 5 Years...

...and stay for free with other gay, lesbian, and gay friendly travelers around the world. More details on our Mi Casa Su Casa site at: http://www.gayhometrade.com.

Read Our Gay Marriage Blog on PurpleUnions.com...

...where we'll bring you news and views about the fight for gay marriage - we're tracking worldwide events weekly, plus commenting periodically on things as we see them. See it at:

http://www.purpleunions.com/blog

and join the mailing list for new postings by emailing your request to info@purpleunions.com

We've redesigned our mainstream accommodations directory - Altraverse.com

Now with over 3,700 accommodations listed worldwide - see it at:

http://www.altraverse.com

Visit our new site, Gayapolis.com

Several months ago, we took over the management of a new site, Gayapolis.com. We've been reworking the site, and still have a lot to do, but already, you'll find personals, daily news, and a great reworked gay and lesbian directory, all at:

http://www.gayapolis.com

That's it for this issue - see you next time! :)

Mark & Scott, PURPLE ROOFS


Purple Roofs Travels

Last month, we returned to Lake Tahoe, one of our perennial favorites.

Tahoe is one of those places that's great to visit at any time of year. In the winter, the region boasts world class skiing (Heavenly, North Star, and Squaw Valley resorts are all here, just to name a few). In the summer, the weather's cooler than most of California or Nevada, and it's a great place to enjoy the amazing natural beauty of the lake and mountains.

On the Way - Placerville

Downtown Placerville, CaliforniaIf you're driving up Higway 50 from the Sacramento area to Tahoe, stop for lunch in Placerville. It's about Hhalfway between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe's South Shore. Old Hangtown (a name leftover over from its more infamous days) is an old west gold town that's quickly becoming a travelers' mecca.

Placerville has a cute old main street that's visibly changing - just walking down the street, you can sense the new bustle and purpose here.

Storefronts are being renovated, new shops are moving in, all while the town works to maintain its historic charm.

Downtown Placerville, CaliforniaYou'll find several used bookstores here, a great Gelato place, a hanging dummy (that strangely looks like a woman in mens' clothing), and a very Phallic tower in the center of town (pictured at right and again below).

Like we've said before, you just have to know where to look... <grin>

For lunch, we recommend Cascada, a new Mexican place in the heart of town with great decor and really delicious, affordable portions that literally opened a week or two before we arrived. There was another reatuarant here before, but the new owners have done a really nice job with the space - see the pictures below.

Downtown Placerville, CaliforniaDowntown Placerville, California

Downtown Placerville, CaliforniaFor dinner, we tried Cafe Luna, a small but elegant restaurant tucked away at the back of a small group of shops on the south side of town.

Downtown Placerville, CaliforniaThere's also the Hangtown Grill, another good place for lunch, and if you have a hankering for chain food, there's a Round Table Pizza and an In-and-Out Burger here too (just ignore the religious slogans on thw wrappers unless you are Christian-inclined).

There are also quite a few little art galleries and a few museums - Placerville was one of the main centers of the Gold Rush, and there's lots of history here to explore. If you're in town around the Third Saturday of the month, you can catch the Art Walk - lots of free cheese, crackers, wine, and (not free) great art.

Placerville's a great little town to spend the weekend in - or stop here for the night on your way to or from Lake Tahoe.

Where to Stay in Placerville

Blair Sugar Pine B&B - Placerville, CaliforniaBlair Sugarpine House B&B
2985 Clay St., Placerville
530-626-9006
http://www.blairsugarpine.com/
stay@blairsugarpine.com
Gay Friendly

Blair Sugar Pine is a traditional bed-and-breakfast just steps away from the heart of Placerville's Main Street. the B&B sits on a hill high above Clay Street, and beckons visitors up its wide staircase to the entrance of the house.

The owners are very friendly, and offer three distinctive guest accommodations. The guest rooms are light and airy, with comfortable feather beds, and each comes with comfortable rooms for guest use while staying at the property. The inn also features some of the historic, original woodwork and is furnished with beautiful antiques.

There is also a large front porch, where guests can enjoy views of the property while taking morning coffee or tea.

Despite its historic appearance, the B&B features modern amenities, including air conditioning for the warmer summer months. Blair Sugar Pine also offers free wireless Internet access for guest use -- keep in touch with friends or family or check your work e-mail while vacationing here.

The property is just across Highway 50 from Placerville's downtown -- it's an easy walk to the town's restaurants, art galleries, and boutique shops.

If you are looking for a place to stay in Placerville for a romantic getaway, or if you just need a place to stay on the way to Lake Tahoe, check out Blair Sugar Pine Bed & Breakfast

Blair Sugar Pine B&B - Placerville, California Blair Sugar Pine B&B - Placerville, CaliforniaBlair Sugar Pine B&B - Placerville, California


Albert Shafsky House B&B
2942 Coloma St., Placerville
http://www.shafsky.com
Shafsky@directcon.net
Lesbian Owned

Halfway between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe's South Shore, Placerville. or Old Hangtown (a name leftover over from its more infamous days) is an old west gold town that's quickly becoming a travelers' mecca.

Placerville has a cute old main street that's visibly changing - just walking down the street, you can sense the new bustle and purpose here.

Storefronts are being renovated, new shops are moving in, all while the town works to maintain its historic charm.

Shafsky House B&B is a Queen Anne Victorian built at the turn of the century, in 1902. A residence for many years and home to the Shafsky family, the building became a bed and breakfast briefly in the early eighties, and then again from 1995 to the present. The house is relatively small, at just 2,040 square feet, but has a large feel, and boasts three separate accommodations - two rooms and a suite.

The B&B is filled with beautiful hardwood floors and is beautifully decorated. There's a dining room where the hosts serve daily breakfasts, and a common area sitting room with a warm fire on chilly winter days. Albert Shafsky's ghost is rumored to live on the premises, and although we didn't see or hear him, he's left his imprint on this beautiful historic house.

Shafsky House is just a block away from downtown on the far side of Highway 50 (but don't worry, you can't hear the street noise at all here).


Tahoe - The South Shore

Lake TahoeWe usually stay on the South Shore in South Lake Tahoe, the town that straddles the Nevada/California border. The casinos (Harvey's, Harrah's, Horizon, & Montbleu (formerly Ceasar's) are at Stateline, just on the Nevada side. On the California side, there are numerous accommodations, gift shops, and restaurants.

Fountain at Heavenly Village - Lake TahoeThe entire Tahoe basin has set strict growth limits and environmental standards to preserve the quality of life and the state of the environment. Restrictions on gas-powered motors in the lake have slowed the clouding of the water, though now global warming is causing problems - lack of rainfall this season meanth that the Tahoe River was in danger of falling below the level of its only outlet, the Truckee River, causing more environmental problems.

South Lake Tahoe has chosen smart growth over sprawl on the South Shore, and has embarked on a redevelopment plan that is slowly transforming the old motel row along the waterfront into an attractive alpine hamlet along the lakeshore.

The dry winter this year meant little or no snow on the ground in December, a strange site in Tahoe. But it was still cold (check out the ice on the fountain at right).

Tahoe - The West Shore

The West Shore is the quieter side of the lake - there's a lot of skiing over here in the Winter time, and a lot of hiking and boating opportunities in the Summer. In the center of the western shore, Tahoe City is a cute little Alpine town. Right on the lake, it offers a number of small shops and restaurants - plan to spend a couple hours walking around town while at the lake.

South of Tahoe City, just before you reach South Lake Tahoe, you'll find Emerald Bay - well worth a look at the least. A vantage point off the Highway will give you some wonderful photo opportunitieson a clear day. If you're in the mood for a hike, a 20-30 minute walk will take you down to the bat to Vikingsholm, a beautiful alpine mansion built right on the water.

There's also a hiking trail from here that runs right along the edge of this gorgeous bay - in the very middle of which you can see the remains of the teahouse on a small island outcropping.

For visits to this area, we strongly recommend that you have snow tires or bring chains, and a four wheel drive wouldn't hurt, at least in the Winter and Spring. Also bring enough food for a couple days.

But the views and peace and quiet are well worth the risk of being snowed in for a day or two, and hey, why not enjoy a bit of extra relaxation?

Things to Do

Go Miniature Golfing

If you're a regular reader of our columns, you'll know we're suckers for miniature golf. Magic Carpet Golf has 47 holes, with such enticing names as Jack's Beanstalk, the Swinging Snake, and Bears Hide Out. Though you'll have to play around the families with kids here, it's all worth it when you get to the end and get to try for a free game - by dropping your golf ball into a slot machine. :) Only open in the warmer months.

Gamble Away an Hour at the Casinos

Four on the south shore - Harrah's, Harveys, Horizon, and Montbleu (all but the Horizon pictured below), and several scattered around the north shore, all on the Nevada Side. Harveys also has a cinema and a Starbucks.

Harrah's Casino at South Lake TahoeHarvey's Casino at South Lake TahoeMontbleu Casino at South Lake Tahoe

See Tahoe in Drag at the Carnaval Cabaret

The Carnaval Cabaret is the only drag show on South Shore. It was a lotta fun (though we wished they'd done some Motown), and the prices were really reasonable. Scott got to dance with Carol Channing on-stage, and the performer was a real lady and a gentleman, in the best sense of both words. At one of the downtown casinos, we're thinking the Horizon.

Heavenly Village Cinema - Lake TahoeSee a Hit Movie

There are now two theaters on the South Shore - one at the Horizon Casino/Hotel, and the other in the new Heavenly Village, just past the Embassy Suites Hotel at the stateline (pictured at right). See a flick away from home, and pass the popcorn.

Visit Vikingsholm and Emerald Bay

In Emerald Bay, where the water really is the color from the Wizard of Oz. Hike down to this viking castle on the shore of the bay, and stick around for lunch. Or if you're too lazy, take a boat cruise on the Tahoe Queen from South Shore (at the foot of Ski Run Blvd, next to the Lake Tahoe Vacation Resort, to Emerald Bay.

Tahoe is truly a year-round vacation destination, but we recommend the late spring or early fall - May or Late September. You'll miss the crowds, but have a great shot at some nice weather. And in the fall especially, many of the tourist amenities are still running, sometimes into mid to late October.

Ice Rink at heavenly Village - Lake TahoeGo Ice Skating

In the winter-time, there's an ice-skating rink at Heavenly Village, right in front of the movie theater. Never tried it? It's a great way to kill a few hour and possibly make a total fool of yourself in front of other folks who are doing the same thing. Priceless.

Explore the New Shops at Heavenly Village

Built a couple years ago near the state line on the California side, Heavenly Village combines accommodations, great shopping, fine dining (see Fire & Ice below) and lots of public art that runs from the rustic to the bizarre:

Art at Heavenly Village - Lake TahoeArt at Heavenly Village - Lake TahoeArt at Heavenly Village - Lake TahoeArt at Heavenly Village - Lake Tahoe

Ski Lift at heavenly Village - Lake TahoeThis is also the jumping off point for Heavenly. If you're staying in South Lake Tahoe near the stateline, you can catch the ski-lift here up to the top. What a view this one has - even if you don't ski, take the lift up to the halfway point - a viewing platform where you can disembark and gaze out at a panoramic wonderland of trees and turquoise blue water, framed by a snow-dusted bowl of mountain peaks.

Where to Eat

Fire and Ice Restaurant - Heavenly VillageWe have a few favorites on the South Shore. Foa a good, breakfast, try the Bear Moon Cafe at the Lake Tahoe Vacation Resort (at the foot of Ski Run Blvd). Nothing fancy, but good, basic breakfast food.

For lunch, try Riva's - in the little shopping area across from the Lake Tahoe Vacation resort. The food's ok to good, but the view is great, especially in the summer if you can sit out on the open-air patio, protected from the cool lake breezes by a glass wall.

For dinner, try Fire & Ice (pictured at right) at Heavenly Village - it's a Mongolian BBQ place where you choose all your ingredients and watch as they stir fry them for you.

Where to Stay in Tahoe

Holly's Place - South Lake TahoeHolly's Place
1201 Rufus Allen Blvd, South Lake Tahoe
530-544-7040
http://www.hollysplace.com/
reservations@hollysplace.com
Lesbian Owned

Once a women's only space, Holly's Place is now open to everyone, but still has a strong lesbian clientele.

The cabins sit on several acres, just a block from one of the lakeshore parks. The property is entirely enclosed in a fence of firewood, and the cabins are far enough apart to have a sense of privacy.

There's a central grassy common area here too, where guests can mingle, and the Rainbow Room, filled with videos and reading materials and a sitting area that we imagined filled with women on warm summer nights. There's also a fl;atscreen TV here for guest use.

Children are welcome here, as are dogs (with prior approval) - there's lots of space for both to wander in safely.

Holly is a warm, welcoming host - she's been running the place for many years, and we really enjoyed meeting her.

If you're looking for a pet-friendly vacation rental cabin on the South Shore, check out Holly's Place, where you'll find a warm welcome, nurturing spirit and great indoor and outdoor spaces, just ten minutes from Stateline.

Holly's Place - South Lake TahoeHolly's Place - South Lake TahoeHolly's Place - South Lake Tahoe


Inn the Pines - South Lake TahoeInn the Pines
2452 Conestoga St., South Lake Tahoe
530-544-2831
http://www.tahoeinnthepines.com/
stay@tahoeinnthepines.com
Lesbian Owned

One of Tahoe's newest B&B accommodtions, Inn the Pines is in a quiet neighborhood (tantalizingly close to the Magic Carpet Miniature Golf Course - you can walk there!) close to the Y (the place where the Highway splits from South Lake Tahoe to the West Shore on one side and toward Sacramento on the other.

Inn the Pines is an intimate property in a private home, with just one guest accommodation - a beautifully furnished suite with a large, comfortable queen-sized bed and a kitchenette with a microwave and mini refigerator.

There's also a sitting area and a flat-screen TV, and wifi internet access, so you can keep in touch with work, family and friends while you're visiting the Tahoe area.

You're their only guests, and you'll enjoy an organic breakfast with your hosts each morning of your stay.

The home is practically brand-new, and is elegant and well appointed. If you're looking for a gay friendly bed and breakfast in a quiet neighborhood, but close to all of the South Shore, check out Inn the Pines.

Inn the Pines - South Lake TahoeInn the Pines - South Lake TahoeInn the Pines - South Lake Tahoe


Spruce Grove - South Lake TahoeSpruce Grove
3599 Spruce Ave., South Lake Tahoe
530-544-0549
http://www.sprucegrovetahoe.com/
info@sprucegrovetahoe.com
Gay Friendly

Spruce Grove offers cabin-style vacation rentals in a quiety neighborhood, similar to Holly's Place - peaceful but close to all the action.

The common area offers many places to relax in warm weather, including a picnic table and BBQ where you can grill hot digs or burgers, several swinging benches, and a hammock that's perfect for an afternoon siesta.

Each of the propety's seven cozy cabins is decorated in a vintage theme, and includes a phone, TV, videos, games, books and music for guest use.

The property is fenced in and is pet and child friendly - bring your family and your dogs with you. We'll be happy to give you directions to the dog park close-by, and the many dog friendly attractions in the Tahoe area.

The beautiful trees that the property takes its name from are home to a number of squirrels, too.

If you're looking for a pet and family friendly vacation rental on the south shore, check out Spruce Grove.

Spruce Grove - South Lake TahoeSpruce Grove - South Lake TahoeSpruce Grove - South Lake Tahoe


Travel Columns

Traveling in Our Fabulous World
The Gay Travel Business is Hurting
By Donald Pile & Ray Williams, Gay Travelers

With the Proposition 8 failure in California,  gays around the country are hurting.  Between the economy going down the tubes and people being laid off, or afraid of being laid off and with sales all over the country drying up, gays more than every need and HAVE to support other gay-owned businesses as well as those wonderful straight-owned businesses who welcomes and embraces gays.  Sometimes it is hard to believe that we do have thousands and thousands of straight allies but…….. we do! 

We have been flooded with emails from gay owned accommodations from coast to coast asking what they can do to get some business.  Most say that their best guests are not returning for numerous reasons.  The reasons listed above are the main reasons.

Yet these resorts, hotels, motels and Bed and Breakfasts have to keep on paying their mortgage payments, taxes, insurance, utilities and upkeep.  There is beginning to be a fine line between making money and going broke.   The person who has been in the White House for the past 8 years has just really screwed up everything for everybody.

Hopefully when the new President enters the White House in January, people all around the country will have a new outlook on life, a new outlook on themselves and a new outlook on the future for themselves as well as the rest of the country. 

Besides the economy, gays all over the country are really upset and disgusted with the outcome of Proposition 8.  With the new movie that just came out on Harvey Milk, we have to ask ourselves, just how far have we come since the 60’s or 70’s?  Yes, we have come a long way, but not nearly enough. 

We will be driving down to Atlanta, Ft. Lauderdale and St. Petersburg this month and it will be interesting to see just what is happening.  However we have already been told that the accommodations in these areas are hurting.  Usually gays from the Northeast, New York City, the Hamptons, Ohio, Chicago, etc. either drive or fly down to Ft. Lauderdale for a few weeks.

We're afraid that will not be the case this year.  Already several of the resorts are offering specials during their “high” season.  On the west coast in Palm Springs, some of the bars are closing as well as resorts.   Restaurants that used to be packed every evening are now barely making ends meet.  When Las Vegas is hurting, you KNOW that there is a problem.

So, what can owners of gay accommodations do to get more business?  When time are rough it is more important to advertise than every before.  If you can’t reduce your prices, then offer your guests more amenities, like cocktail hour, afternoon snacks  Some accommodations offers special “themed” weekends like cowboy, leather, disco or whatever.

The old adage, “When the going gets tough, the tough gets going” is one that some owners need to use.  Don’t just sit there and hope that you get guests.  Our travel columns run in publications from coast to coast as well as on-line and for accommodations, we find purpleroofs.com the best and only way for accommodations to target the gay market. 

For bars and restaurants, they need to work with the gay accommodations in their own city.  Every gay bar and every gay owned restaurant should have their posters, business cards, menus and advertising in the accommodations.  They should offer the owners of accommodations complimentary dinners sometimes.  If we all work together we can get over this economic downturn and make money.  There are still a lot of gay travelers out there who is wanting to travel, spend money,   Gay accommodations just have to make that travel want to stay with them. 

Hopefully with the new guy in the White House, the hopes and dreams of everybody will rise up again.  Hopefully, the California Supreme Court will find it in their hearts to do the right thing and overturn Proposition 8.    Good luck all you owners! 

We get asked so often in our travels from resorts and B and B’s how to attract the gay audience and we always tell them to get on purpleroofs.  It is just that simple!  We will continue using purpleroofs forever!

Always remember to have fun when traveling, meet new people and talk to everyone!

TRAVELING IN OUR FABULOUS WORLD is written by Donald Pile and Ray Williams, Award-winning Celebrity travel columnists who write for gay publications from Coast to Coast. You can email them at: gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their webpage at: http://gaytravelersataol.blogspot.com/.

Editor's note: we have fifteen gay owned and gay friendly properties in Utah - we ask that you continue to support these members and friends of our community if/when you do travel to Utah. You can find them here.


Gay Whale Watching in Hawaii
By Chuck, Maui Sunseeker, Kihei, Maui, Hawaii

Email Chuck | Visit the Maui Sunseeker Website

Interested in seeing one of the largest animals on the planet? If you are in Maui between November and May, don't miss your opportunity to see the world's most interesting and acrobatic great whale, the 40 ton humpback whale!

The Maa'lea Ocean Spirit is happy to announce the dates of Maui's only Gay and Lesbian Whale Watch Excursion.  This popular event sells out fast so plan accordingly as boat space is limited.  Boats depart Maa'lea Harbor (15 minutes from our Hotel) at 1:00 PM.  There are 3 trips planned thus far: January 25th, February 8th and February 22nd. Call for more info or go to www.mauigayinfo.com

Fun Facts about Humpback Whales

The humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) is a Baleen whale. One of the larger rorqual species, adults range in length from 12–16 meters (40–50 ft) and weigh approximately 36,000 kilograms (79,000 lb). The humpback has a distinctive body shape, with unusually long pectoral fins and a knobbly head. It is an acrobatic animal, often breaching and slapping the water. Males produce a complex whale song, which lasts for 10 to 20 minutes and is repeated for hours at a time. The purpose of the song is not yet clear, although it appears to have a role in mating.

Found in oceans and seas around the world, humpback whales typically migrate up to 25,000 kilometers each year. Humpbacks feed only in summer, in polar waters, and migrate to tropical or sub-tropical waters to breed and give birth in the winter. During the winter, humpbacks fast and live off their fat reserves. The species diet consists mostly of krill and small fish. Humpbacks have a diverse repertoire of feeding methods, including the bubble net feeding technique.

Like other large whales, the humpback was and is a target for the whaling industry. Due to over-hunting, its population fell by an estimated 90% before a whaling moratorium was introduced in 1966. Stocks of the species have since partially recovered; however, entanglement in fishing gear, collisions with ships, and noise pollution also remain concerns. There are at least 80,000 humpback whales worldwide. Once hunted to the brink of extinction, humpbacks are now sought out by whale-watchers, particularly off parts of Australia and the United States.

It's not too late for a most memorable winter weekend, a chance to thaw out or do some tropical shopping as rooms are still available at our already low rates.  The airlines still have seats open and have drastically lowered their airfares to Hawaii.  Please visit your favorite booking engine for special fares.


Turkey's Turquoise Coast
By Jonathan Bagby, Shine Holidays

Email Jonathan | Visit the Shine Holidays Website

Turkey is a stunningly beautiful country of many colours and contrasts. Steeped in history you will rarely find a more unique land with such a diverse heritage. Well known as the place where eastern mystique meets western sophistication, you don’t have to look far to find the ancient rubbing shoulders with the modern

The sparkling clear Turkish waters of the Mediterranean and Aegean seas are often referred to as the Turquoise Coast due to their vivid shade of blue. The countless charming inlets, isolated coves and uninhabited islands that punctuate these azure waters combine to make one of the most idyllic sailing spots you could wish to find.

One of the most relaxing ways to explore this area is on a traditionally Turkish gulet cruise – which allows you to experience its true magnitude and beauty from the sea whilst also giving you the opportunity to take in some of its most significant resorts, villages and sites of historical interest along the way. In just one weeks sailing on a ‘Blue Cruise’, you can see Marmaris, Icmeler, Dalyan, Gocek and Fethiye and sample so much more of the real Turkey in-between.

Marmaris

Situated around a stunning bay, backed by rugged pine-clad mountains, Marmaris is one of Turkeys’ most attractive maritime parklands and is ideal for watersports and sailing. The cosmopolitan marina of Marmaris makes an excellent starting point for the 'Blue Cruise' gulet tour of the Aegean coastline. After a night here you will set sail to languidly explore the spectacular beauty of southern Turkey.

In Marmaris you can sample the typical Turkish cuisine in one of the marina restaurants and even try the local tipple Raki, the traditional Turkish way, over ice and diluted with water. Later, a stroll along the brightly lit, palm-lined promenade is a must, to take in the sights –it’s perfect for ‘people watching’. If you enjoy shopping there are many good buys to be had in Marmaris' boutiques, bazaars and markets. You can find excellent leather and suede goods, copper and brassware, jewellery and objects carved of onyx. Turkish carpets, textiles and embroidery make good handcrafted souvenirs, and the locally produced pine-scented honey called 'Cambali' is delicious.

Ancient Marmaris, Physkos, was an important stage on the Anatolia-Rhodes-Egypt trade route. In the 16th century Suleyman the magnificent had a citadel built on a hill, the remains of which can still be seen today.

On a Gulet cruise you would also sail by Marmaris’ neighbouring resort Icmeler, the hazy mountains here slope down to a popular sandy beach. Under blue skies, the clear sea is ideal for all types of watersports. Just past Icmeler is the village of Turunc, with its spectacular blue waters beyond the natural harbour. The village itself is small and scattered around the bay. Most of the restaurants bordering the beach offer fresh fish and superb views.

Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the southern side of the bay. On the northern side, above the water, stands the ancient Rhodian city of Amos. Loryma, at the tip of the Bozburun Peninsula, where the ruins of the ancient harbour and castle remain, can only be reached by boat. Natural quiet bays and scattered islands punctuate the northern shore of the peninsular, ideal for those who want to get away from it all.

Dalyan/ Koycegiz and Gocek

The town of Koycegiz lies at the northern end of a lake of the same name and is joined to the Mediterranean by a natural channel. This unique environment is being preserved as a nature and wildlife sanctuary. A road shaded with aromatic frankincense trees leads to the village of Dalyan on the inland waterway. The maze of channels is easily explored by boat as you immerse yourself in this idyllic dream world. High on the cliff face, at a bend in the river is the city of Caunos where magnificent tombs were carved into the rock. The Dalyan Delta, with a long, golden sandy beach at its mouth, is a nature conservation area and a refuge for sea turtles (Caretta Caretta) and blue crabs.

At Ekincik, a delightful yacht mooring, you can enjoy the breathtaking beauty of this area. Nearby Sarigerme has lovely sandy beaches, and a holiday resort discreetly situated in a pine forest. The Dalaman River here is excellent for white water rafting between May and October.

The Gulf of Gocek and its friendly marina is one of the Mediterranean’s best sailing spots. Dotted with islands and indented with many coves, its land and seascapes are irresistible. The ruins of Arymaxa, an ancient city at the southern tip of the gulf, lie at the edge of the azure waters. Opposite on Tersane Island, stand Byzantine ruins, including those of the ancient shipyards.

Fethiye

The popular resort of Fethiye, 135 km southeast of Marmaris, boasts an impressive marina at the head of a beautiful bay strewn with islands. A hill crowned by the ruins of the crusader fortress built by the Knights of Rhodes overlooks the little port. The town’s pedestrian cobbled streets are perfect for exploring and window shopping. Above the town, (called Telmessos in antiquity), numerous Lycian rock tombs, reproducing the facades of ancient buildings, were cut into the cliff face. The Tomb of Amyntas, which probably dates from the fourth century B.C., is the most remarkable.

Keen swimmers usually head for the popular Calis Beach, four kilometres west of the town, or to Sovalye Island, opposite the harbour, which blazes with flowers in the spring. The stunning Lagoon of Ölu Deniz is located 30 minutes drive away, and is very popular with Para gliders who dare to jump off the mountain in droves.

Hisaronu is a buzzing little resort situated just up the mountain from the lagoon, it is full of restaurants, bars and also home of the hilarious Dream Girls at ‘Talk of the Town’.

‘Shine Holidays’ are the first company to offer exclusively gay and exclusively lesbian gulet cruises in Turkey.  Each boat has 6 to 12 cabins, so whether you are single, with a partner or just a group of friends, everyone is welcome.  These exclusively gay cruises allow you to rest assured that you will be sailing with liked minded people and truly do provide the perfect getaway to enjoy relaxing sun filled days and evenings of good food, wine and conversation set against a back drop of the Aegean coasts most stunning sunsets.

Shine Holidays are the first company to offer exclusively gay and exclusively lesbian gulet cruises in Turkey. The Turkish climate in June and September is ideal for ‘Shine Holidays’ exclusively gay and exclusively lesbian sailing weeks.

Traditional gulet holidays provide the perfect getaway for relaxing sun filled days, evenings of good food, wine and conversation set against a back drop of the Aegean coasts most stunning sunsets. Each boat has 6 to 12 cabins, so whether you are single, with a partner or just a group of friends, everyone is welcome. The Turkish climate in June and September is ideal for both the exclusively gay and exclusively lesbian sailing weeks. Tailor made private bookings are also available for parties of 8 to 16 people who can take over a whole boat. Please go to www.shineholidays.co.uk for further info.


Back from Buenos Aires
By Bob Giangrasso

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Click here to see the Purple Roofs Argentina Section

When I was a kid, I curiously enjoyed playing one of my Mom’s old 78 rpm recordings over and over again, surely endearing myself to the neighbors.  The black and white Decca label identified the tango as La Compasita with music by Xavier Cugat and his orchestra.  I found the music haunting; the sort that stays with you all day.  

Never did I think I would hear this stirring and emblematic rhythm repeatedly until our recent vacation to Buenos Aires, which first piqued our curiosity when friends described this destination as the Paris of South America.

Possibly because of our share of airline tribulations, we were somewhat wary in the beginning.  Need I bring up our Alitalia debacle again?  

To totally throw us off the track, our round trip flights proceeded without a snag. Something felt fishy.  Every guide book and travel advisor warned us about safety:  “Secure your wallet in your front pocket; no flashy jewelry; don’t walk down deserted streets at night.”   On the contrary, we never felt at risk.  We were instructed to take walking tours of neighborhoods without giving us too many specifics, leaving us concerned if there would be enough to do.

Our fears were quelled as our journey progressed; the days filled with so much pleasure.  Staying in the Centro District afforded us an easy walk to any tourists’ first stop, the Casa Rosato, although a bit more salmon than rose. Unfortunately, you are not allowed inside the gates, preventing every gay man from doing what he was destined to do; sing, “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina”, on that infamous balcony.

Our first night was highlighted by our best steak of the week at a great restaurant in the Puerto Madero.  Although touristy (one of the few times that we heard people speaking English), the meat was rare, the prices fair and the service at La Caballeriza was complimented by a delectable waiter.

Already we are taking turns humming La Compasita and Don’t Cry for Me Argentina.  The next day begins as we amble around the lawns and lakes of Parque Tres de Febrero, known locally as Palermo Woods, 200 acres affording you the ability to walk, jog, ride a paddle boat and drink in the scenery amidst the whirring sounds of the surrounding traffic.

Crossing every street feels like you’re eighty years old navigating the Grand Concourse with a walker.  A stroll throughout Palermo and Palermo-Soho reminds us of the fact that we don’t like to window shop, which is disconcerting because this city is meant for serious shoppers. We explore Museo Evita, dubbed “my life, my mission, my destiny”.  You can’t help but buy into her mystique because this is obviously a country that still venerates her.  A later expedition to Recoleta allows us to pay homage at the cemetery where she was recently interred.  It seems her body got lost on the way to the mausoleum – long story.

For dinner, we ride the subway (subte) to what seems like the burbs arriving very early at 8:30 to dine at Bella Italia, our second best Italian meal.  

Sunday is all about shopping.  (OK, I lied about not being shoppers - it all depends on the prize.) The subte transports us to the San Telmo district to spend a day amongst the open markets, booths, kiosks, stalls and cavernous stores.  We have never seen anything this big.  There, I said it.

It is the perfect day for buying miniature portraits and remote control boxes.  We vow to come back for more.  Who can have enough boxes?

Our evening is highlighted by El Viego Almacen, the tango show extraordinaire, offering a performance filled with young, talented dancers.  We met the first of the sight-seeing English-speaking Brazilians with the question; “Are you voting for Obama?”

The following day, we travel by cab to La Boca, surely the oldest and most colorful neighborhood.  Its most famous street is called Caminito for little path; the remains of an early twentieth century Italian neighborhood, made up of immigrants attracted to the port’s opportunities.

Afterwards, we team up with our friends Rich and Steve from New Jersey because who ever has time at home? They are staying at the trendy Axel, billed as Latin America’s premier gay hotel.  It is definitely a wow at first sight; combining elements of glass, wood and water for a spectacular architectural effect.

This is the first time I have seen a transparent pool, located on the rooftop for all to gaze from the dance floor below. Anyone know the words to Material Girl?

We take a leisurely walk to a superb Italian restaurant in Puerto Madero called La Parolaccia and savor a multitude of flavors and what is certainly the best Italian food I have ever eaten (forgive me Mom).  We return for our second dinner later in the week – it is that good!

On Tuesday, we begin by navigating the lines and paperwork at the ferry terminal to Uruguay. Luckily, we meet another couple from Brazil who negotiate information for a price – we must vote for Obama, of course.

On the boat, a delightful young man named Lucio entertains us with his love of travel and antiques and speaks English, Spanish and Portuguese.  What a catch; it’s like finding a match on man2man!   Our daytrip centers around Colonia Del Sacramento named after the central church.  Outside of the town’s peaceful cobbled streets, a short ride in the country is highlighted by a visit to a jam factory with a tall handsome guide cuter than the Sciacca bread man.

The subsequent day begins at a laundry on Esmeralda, a trade-off for packing light and then to the infamous Norma, a purveyor of watchbands on Libertad, the equivalent of 47th Street. Adding some additional culture to our diet, we locate the Fine Arts Museum with a pinch of Renoir, Lautrec and Monet; a sampling menu with a few extravagant specials.  

Braving more horrific traffic whizzing by at hair-raising speeds, Bob and I discover the finest antique store in this city of twelve million, uncovering the box of boxes!  By now, we completely understand siesta time, and later attempt to find a café friends have suggested.  This expedition teaches us that Parrilla means grilled, every bistro promotes grilled meats, Chile is a long street and there are countless restaurants on Chile, resulting in our only bad meal.  Not giving up, we sample a gay tango hall called La Marshall, which would be a bigger hit if they lowered the lights and served more alcohol.

Thursday, we embarked on an excursion with multiple elements working for it, beginning from a real live rail station to Tigre, a river town which is the embarkation point for boats that ply the Delta de Parana.  A picturesque riverboat ride leisurely makes its way through a maze of canals accessible only by boat.  Bob takes a million pictures, some of which have nothing to do with cute boys and big smiles.

Later, our elegant dining experience at Thymus could satisfy even a vegetarian but take note that all of our meals have one common thread – plenty of salt!  We hail another cab (the subways stop running at 11:00) to Ideal, THE Tango hall, where the milongas linger to the wee hours.

Friday morning finds us at one of the best attractions on this trip!  At 11:00 AM (not before); the doors open at El Zanjon de Granados, a very unusual restoration.  Our charming Argentine guide explains that during an initial renovation in the 70’s, a network of tunnels was uncovered, revealing artifacts and foundations from former houses on this site dating back centuries.  After years of careful excavation, this treasure became available for all to see.  

Back in Recoleta, we drink in the Museum of Decorative Arts, a French neoclassical mansion, as much the treat as the furnishings, porcelain and artwork.  Of special interest to us are the scores of miniature portraits, a really amazing collection.  

With a whole day before our flight, we use the time on Saturday to take in whatever antique stores we may have missed, if that is possible.  

We locate our friends’ original recommendation, La Gran Parrilla del Plata, where we dine on our final steak in Argentina. We are treated to complimentary champagne to bid us farewell and then take one last stroll through the marvelously broken tiled streets crowded with portenos (locals), tourists and litter.  It’s a very long walk on another sunny day and it feels great!  

Don’t cry for me Argentina; the truth is I never left you; all through my wild days; my mad existence; I kept my promise; don’t keep your distance!

Happy Travels!  Bob Giangrasso and Bob Frankel
Wanamassa, NJ


Cairngorms National Park, Scotland
By Myra Eccles, Columba House Hotel, Kingussie, Highlands, Scotland, UK

In the heart of the Cairngorms National Park with outstanding natural beauty, stunning landscapes, peace and tranquillity, lies Kingussie, a paradise for outdoor activities and those who appreciate invigorating Highland air, dramatic scenery and Highland hospitality. An oasis amidst the magnificent scenery of the Spey Valley, in the foothills of snow-capped peaks of the Cairngorm and Monadhliath mountains. With shimmering lochs fringed by sandy beaches and sparkling rivers.

There is much on offer in the area. For those seeking invigorating activities, experience climbing, rambling, pony trekking, water and winter sports. Kingussie’s challenging 18-hole hillside golf course, offering spectacular views of the National Park which contains a quarter of Scotland’s native woodlands and is refuge to many rare species of flora and fauna. Highland courses are the real hidden gems of Scottish Golf, challenging and set amongst some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world, to suit every budget and every ability.

Glorious riverside walks, fishing and bird watching or visit the ruins of Ruthven Barracks - a pleasant country walk from the village.

There is the award winning Highland Folk Museum and The Highland Wildlife Park, just outside Kingussie which specialise in Scotland’s wildlife, past and present, along with endangered animals of the world’s mountain and tundra regions. The latest additions are the tigers and soon will be camels.

The sport at which Kingussie excels is shinty and if the team is playing at The Dell (their local ground) you will have the opportunity of watching one of the oldest Gaelic field sports, performed by a team with an unrivalled record of championship and cup wins in the modern era.

The hugely popular television series ”Monarch of the Glen” was filmed entirely in the upper Spey Valley, including many scenes featuring Kingussie.

2 miles from Kingussie is the RSPB Insh Marshes Reserve, one of the finest wetlands conservation areas in the UK. Many wildlife events are organised from here.

So….break free from city life and take to the byways, vast moorland, hills, and highland glens. Breathe in the pure highland air, which brightens the eye and lightens the step. Total freedom to relax, unwind and accept the slower pace of the Highlands.

Visit our Romantic Highland Retreat, nestling in a secluded walled garden. Enjoy quality Fine Dining by the flickering candlelight, in comfort and style with attentive service and relaxed adult atmosphere, elegantly presented and served with great attention to detail. We regret we cannot accommodate children but offer indulgent refuge for grown-ups wishing to enjoy complete peace in beautiful surroundings.

Highest standards of welcoming hospitality, accommodation and customer care. Beautiful double rooms with super king beds and four-poster rooms with double baths. The new Penthouse Suite, triple aspect, with ever changing views of the surrounding village. We always try to achieve the highest standards of welcoming hospitality, accommodation and customer care. Cosy Lounge with open fire. Garden Bar and patio for Summertime dining. Wi-fi. Ample free private parking.