Welcome to the December 2006 newsletter. This month, we have the second of two parts of our report on Hawaii - Kauai.

This Month's Travel Articles

This month we have a great column about Saving Money While Traveling from Don & Ray. Thanks, guys! We also have a great article from Paul at Earlfield Travel about the Caribbean isle of Jamaica - Thanks, Paul! And we have an article on Tuscany from Nathan Aaron Place of Tuscan Colors - thanks, Nathan!

Innkeepers - write us an article about your area, and we'll include it in a future issue of this newsletter with credit and links to your website and email addresses. Contact wheretostay@purpleroofs.com for more details.

Late Availability/Special Offer Accommodation Notices

As always, we also have our Late Availability & Special Offer notices (144 offers in 16 countries/regions) all at http://www.purpleroofs.com/lateavailability.html, or just check your favorite destination page - these notices are also right there on the regular listings.

Travelers - Try a Home Trade Membership for Just $60 for 3 Years...

...and stay for free with other gay, lesbian, and gay friendly travelers around the world. More details on our Mi Casa Su Casa site at: http://www.gayhometrade.com.

Seen Our Real Estate and Wedding Sites Lately?

We've been beefing up our realtor, mortgage lender, and wedding vendor listings over the last several months, and now have over 450 real estate professional listings in 45 US states, Spain, Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. We have over 550 Wedding Vendor listings in 42 US states, Asia, Canada, the Caribbean, Central America, Europe, Mexico and the South Pacific.

Check out our real estate professional listings here: http://www.gayrealtynetwork.com
Check out our wedding vendor listings here: http://www.purpleunions.com

That's it for this issue.

Mark & Scott, PURPLE ROOFS

Welcome to Kauai

In late September, we returned to the Island of Kauai for the first time since we moved back to the Mainland in 2001. We feared there would be wholesale changes to this once beautiful Garden Island, that all the open land would have been converted into new homes and condos and highways, but surprisingly it was much like we remembered it, still beautiful and lush and open.

There were a few minor changes - mostly restaurants we loved that were now gone and a few new condo projects - most glaringly, one in Princeville where there used to be a wide open grassy circle, now crammed with hundreds of new condos. But the spirit of the island remains untouched.

There's just something special about Kauai, something that reaches out to everyone who visits here, gay or straight. It's a feeling of peace, of contentment, and a recognition of the stunning beauty this most natural and tropical of the Hawaiian Islands offers.

While there are no gay bars on Kauai, there are many gay and lesbian folks who have moved here from the mainland, and a fair number of the local hula dancers are gay. To get hooked into the local gay community, contact Martin Rice at lambda@aloha.net, or contact one of the gay innkeepers on-island.

We flew in on a beautiful afternoon from Oahu into one of our favorite airports, and here, too, there were minor changes. Lihue's airport is small, open, and immediately welcomes you to the island with its fresh ocean breezes. Our luggage arrived quickly (unlike the first time we came to the island, when it was three hours behind us from Oahu - but hey, at least we were in Hawaii), but they've moved the once-convenient car rental pick-up from right outside the baggage claim area to a far corner of the airport - not a big deal, but you do now have to take a shuttle to reach the rental counters.

We rented a Ford Mustang (pictured at left), something we highly recommend if you have the budget for it. Unlike the Camaro we rented here a few years back, the Mustang's windshield didn't distort our view of the road ahead, and having the convertible top was fantastic, even on semi-rainy days. There's nothing like the feeling of wind in your hair in the tropics.

An island note: first, when we say Highway, remember that everything is relative. On 95% of the island, the "Highway" is a two lane road that would barely qualify for country road status on the mainland, so restaurants and accommodations near the highway are much quieter than you might assume.

Lihue

We'll start centrally - Lihue is the largest city on Kauai (which makes it a small town almost anywhere else), and it's where you'll fly into Kauai from the mainland or the other islands. Lihue is where the locals go when they need to shop. Here you'll find Kukui Grove, the only real shopping mall on-island - anchored by a Sears on one end and Macy's on the other. This open air mall also has one of the few Starbucks on island - another new thing, as there were none when we lived here six years ago. The mall's nothing fancy by mainland standards, but it's great to have if you need to pick up something while you're here - a new shirt, shoelaces, a book to read on the beach?

Lihue also has the largest movie theater, a multi-screen cinema just across the street from Kukui Grove - if its raining outside, or you get sick of the beach and want a cool couple hours of entertainment indoors, you can spend them here.

One of our favorite island stores is here - the island's only Hilo Hattie is right in the middle of Lihue - stop here on your way back to the airport for great, affordable gifts for your friends and family back home - macadamia nuts, island candy, aloha wear, puka shell necklaces, and much more.

There's also a great restaurant here - Kauai Pasta (pictured at right) - right on the main highway about half a block south of Hilo Hattie. This is a new place, opened in the last year or so, and the pasta was fantastic. Get here early, though, for lunch or dinner - it's a popular place, and it only has a handful of tables.

Lihue also features big box stores like Costco, Walmart, Home Depot, Kmart, and Borders Books, and many of the nuts and bolts operations like contractors, suppliers, car dealerships, and more. Lihue is short on charm and long on practicality.

At the ocean end, on Nawiliwili Harbor, the cruise ships dock, and there's a nice resort and a smattering of tourist shops.

Going southeast along the highway, you'll pass Kilohana Plantation (pictured at left, one of the original plantation homes on Kauai, now converted to a cultural center and home to a restaurant and several small shops.

Stop here for a few hours and take a Carriage Ride around the plantation, learning about old Hawaii from your knowledgeable guide.

Or see how local crafts are made while you wander the beautiful mansion, as local artisans create their work in front of you.

South Shore: Poipu, Koloa, Kalaheo, Waimea

As you leave Kilohana, you'll soon cross over to the south part of the island. This part of the island is drier than the north shore, and is a great place to go for the beach when it rains up there.

Turn off the main highway at the Koloa Town/Poipu exit, and enter the Tunnel of Trees (pictured at left), a beautiful shaded drive at the entry to the Poipu area. This green, shaded corridor was planted 150 years ago by Walter Duncan McBryde, a Scottish man who was a local cattle rancher. During Hurricane Iniki in 1992, the trees were mostly stripped, but they have bounced back in the intervening years, and the Tunnel is now almost as lush as it was pre-Hurricane.

The first town you'll come to is Koloa Town, an old sugar plantation town with a charming collection of shops and restaurants. There's a Lappert's Ice Cream - a Hawaiian ice cream store chain that has great locally-made ice cream. There's also one of our previous favorite restaurants, Tomkats (pictured at right) - a local Pizza joint with a nice outdoor courtyard out back. Unfortunately, we can no longer recommend Tomkats - when we visited this trip, we waited for almost 10 minutes before the hostess even acknowledged us, the service was extremely slow and rude, and the food was cold and greasy.

Much better was Pizzetta, a few doors down - with great service, a nice open air atmosphere and good pizza.

Island Soap and Candleworks also has a small store here, but the one in Kilauea, on the North Shore, is a bit bigger and has a better selection.

There's also a nice memorial to the Sugar Cane workers here that's worth a look (pictured at left) - just north of the main strip of shops, across the street. And Koloa features a local supermarket - Big Save - that ironically is one of the most expensive on the island. Only shop here if you have to, or if you need one or two things - otherwise shop at the island Safeway (see the Wailua section below).

From Koloa, the easiest way to reach Poipu and the water is to take the road at the eastern end of town south. The Poipu area is one of the major resort regions on-island. Poipu Beach is almost entirely residential, mostly vacation homes, older condos, newer/remodelled hotels and timeshares, and a really cute shopping center. There's also a huge new residential area going in on the west side of town, but none of it has been built.

As you approach the ocean, go left or right where the road forks - you'll see a "Welcome to poipu beach sign here (pictured at left). Going right takes you to older Poipu, where the Beach House restaurant is, and where the Spouting Horn is.

The spouting horn is a lava rock formation where the incoming tide forces seawater through a small lava tube, where it flies up into the air with a horn-like noise - see the picture at left, or click here to see a video.

It was once much larger, but the salt spray damaged some of the nearest sugarcane fields, so a shortsighted foreman dynamited the original spout to prevent crop damage - you can sill see the hole he blew in the lava rock.

But the surviving spout is still quite impressive.

We didn't visit The Beach House restaurant this trip (which is also hear in the western section of Poipu), but it was very good, though a bit expensive, when we visited here before. It also has really romantic water views:

At the end of the road, you'll find the Allerton Gardens. These are the most beautiful botanical gardens on Kauai, where they work to reserve native species. To get there, you buy tickets at the visitor center outside the park. Then you board a tram, which takes you from the arid area around the center to the lush valley where the Allerton Estate sits.

There's a bit of gay history here too - Robert Allerton bought the property in 1938. He and his adopted son, John Gregg, transformed the valley into a botanical marvel together. What the official guides won't tell you, though, is that Robert Allerton and John Gregg were gay and were in fact partners. Allerton adopted Gregg because it was the only way, at the time, that he could be insured that Gregg would be able to inherit the land after he died.

But even without the gay history, the Allerton Gardens are well worth your time.

Going left at the fork left takes you to newer part of Poipu. After the golf course, you'll see the Poipu Shopping Village, one of two smaller outdoor malls and home to a number of restaurants and shops.

Keoki’s Paradise in Poipu (pictured at left) used to be a favorite, with its kitschy tropical ambiance. Tables are situated on tiers, surrounded by a lagoon and tropical plants. But we were sorely disappointed this time. The place was really busy, so the first time we tried to eat here this trip, we were told we had to make a reservation for a water-side table. So we made a reservation for a few days later, and when we returned, we were indeed given a water-side table - in a dark far corner of the restaurant, away from the waterfall, and near the street and some ongoing construction. And the food was from 20 years ago - teriyaki steak that was undercooked, macadamia encrusted entrees (as our friends at Luana Inn on the Big Island warned, beware any restaurant with macadamia nut encrusted anything on its menu), and the obligatory molten lava cake for dessert. This place is clearly coasting on its reputation, and should be avoided. If you do insist on going, ask for a table by the waterfall, not just by the water. At least the view will be good.

We also tried Roy's - an island chain that has also spread to seaside cities on the mainland, and the food here was fantastic. The service was good, but get here early. This restaurant is unique in that it sits on the main pedestrian walkway at the Village, and is in fact split into two sections by it, so if you come late, you may end up sitting on or near the aisle, with passers-by watching you eat. But we give this place a hearty recommendation.

A little farther on is the new Marriott Waiohai Beach Club, a timeshare complex - we mention it only because you can get Starbucks coffee here - there's a small breakfast bar in the middle that serves the coffee, but none of the specialty drinks.

The first of the Purple Roofs accommodations we visited is also here - Poipu Plantation - on Pe'e Road near the water. See the accommodations section below for more info on this gay-owned resort.

Just down the road, on Pe'e Road on a little bay halfway between Poipu Plantation and the Marriott, is a great Honu-watching spot - stand above the rocks on the eastern end of the bay in the morning and watch for a few minutes - they're hard to spot at first, but you'll start to see dark shadows in the waves, and if you're lucky, you may see 5-10 turtles here.

Finally, at the end of the road, you'll see the Grand Hyatt. This place has one of the most fantastic pools we've ever seen - it wanders in and around the huge grounds, under bridges, past sandy beaches, and is enjoyable just to walk through.

We mention the Grand Hyatt for several reasons - first, two restaurants:

Ilima Terrace (pictured at right) - a beautiful restaurant on a terrace above the tropical grounds, looking out over Shipwreck Beach. Ilima Terrace offers a great buffet breakfast, and the perfect island atmosphere to relax over breakfast.

Also here is Tidepools Restaurant (pictured at left), a tropical restaurant set among the landscaped pools between the hotel and the beach.

It's only open for dinner, and we didn't eat here this trip, but it was really good last time we were here.

The atmosphere is a lot less contrived than Keoki's, especially at night, when the tiki torches provide a beautiful glow across the water.

There's a beautiful tropical central atrium at the hotel, and if you visit at the right time, you may see a number of tropical birds - parrots, macaws, and cocatoos

The Grand Hyatt also offers a fantastic luau - probably the best we've seen on the island. On a clear day, they hold it outdoors in a wide courtyard on the western side of the resort.

The service was great, and the buffet meal was excellent - with all-you-can eat pork, the obligatory poi, and much more to choose from.

The dancing was also excellent. There were very beautiful wahine (women) and very handsome, well-built kane (men).

The night we were there was perfect - with a crescent moon and the sky deepening to a cerulean blue as we watched the dancers. If you're going to see a Luau while on-island, consider this one - see the pictures below for more. or click here for a kane video, or here for a wahine video.

There's also lots of wildlife on the grounds, including cranes, small birds, koi and much more - here are a few we captured on film.

From here, you can take the bypass road back around Koloa town to the Tree Tunnel - if you're not stopping in Koloa Town, it's a bit faster.

To the west of Poipu are the tiny towns of Lawai and Kalaheo, where you'll find a couple nice restaurants:

Pomodoro (pictured at left) - a cute italian restaurant on the second floor, just off the main highway. While there's no views here, the food is very good, the service excellent, and the restaurant is really cute. A great south-shore choice for dinner.

For breakfast or lunch, try the Kalaheo Cafe (at right) across the parking lot... surprisingly good basic fare and a nice sunny patio to eat at. We had the pesto chicken sandwich and a breakfast burrito for breakfast - both were excellent.

Kalanikai, a gay owned bed and breakfast, is also here in Kalaheo, a bit north of the main highway. More info in the lodging section below.

On the way from Kalaheo to Eleele, you'll see the Kauai Coffee Company (pictured at left) - if you like coffee, stop here. These guys had a great idea - as the sugar plantations closed down one by one, the owners bought up old sugarcane land on the sunny south shore, and converted it to a coffee plantation. Sugarcane was once the island's lifeblood, but it brought its own share of problems, including excessive smoke when the cane was burned (see Maui's central valley for this ongoing problem). And while sugar cane burning helped supply extra power to the island, Kauai Coffee Company has also been very energy responsible, shutting down their processing voluntarily in the past when brown-outs have been threatened to keep the power flowing to the rest of the island. Their plantation has also provided Kauai with a new, renewable agricultural export.

Stop by the visitor's center and pick up a fresh bag of locally grown, delicious coffee beans. The gift store also features other local foods, and an explanation of how coffee is grown and harvested here to make the many varieties they offer.

Farther westward, the island continues to get drier until you reach the southwestern coast of the island, which is almost a desert, and which houses the Naval base and the Barking Sands beach - where the sand is coarse and crunches (barks) under your feet. In between are the towns of Eleele, Hanapepe, and Waimea, each with its own collection of shops and restaurants, each about a block long.

From Waimea, you can drive up to Waimea Canyon, the largest canyon in the Hawaiian Islands, rivaling the Grand Canyon for sheer beauty. Mount Waialeale, in the heart of the island, is the wettest spot on earth, getting over 400 inches of rain a year, and much of this water makes its way to the sea via Waimea Canyon. But go as early as you can, as the clouds often come in and obscure the view by mid-day or in the early afternoon. And take a jacket - it can actually get cold up here!

As you drive up from the ocean (picture at left), watch for a stretch of red dirt along the left-hand side of the road. There's a pull-off just past this on the right. Stop here and walk around a bit (but watch for cars coming up or down the road before you cross).

This is one of our favorite places on the island, a little pocket of red hills bisected by a small, fern-covered stream and waterfall. This place is different from almost anywhere else on earth you will ever find (see the pictures below).

It's a bit like wandering across the surface of Mars (without those pesky windstorms and 150 degree below freezing temperatures) - the earth is almost unbelievable red. Now you know how those red-dirt shorts are made! Click here for a video.

Farther up the road, you'll reach several viewing points - stop for each, as you'll see a different perspective from each one - see the pictures below and the panoramic picture at the top of this section. Click here for a short video.

There are also several helicopter tours of the island available that can take you into the canyon from above - one leaves out of Lihue, just outside of the airport, and one is based on the north shore near Princeville.

Eventually you'll come to the Koke'e Lodge, a park service building that has a small cafe (don't eat here unless you have to, as the food is pretty basic and a bit greasy), a great little museum dedicated to the Hurricanes that have hit the islands, and a small gift shop.

Finally, head on up-canyon to the Kalalau Valley lookout - from here, you can see down the valley to part of the Wild Napali Coast, the northwester part of the island so rugged that no road crosses it, and the only ways in are on foot, by helicopter, or by sea. On a clear day, the view here is stunning - see the pics below. Click here for a video.

You can also see Ni'ihau Island here - a smaller island slightly southwest of Kaua'i. The island is owned by the Robinson0 family, and they use it for cattle ranching. Only the native Hawaiian workers and their families are allowed access there, and Hawaiian is the primary language spoken on the island. Some boat tours can take you to a remote beach on the "forbidden island", far from the inhabited areas.

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East Shore: Wailua, Waipouli, Kapa'a

Starting from Lihue again and heading north. along the eastern coast, you'll pass through Wailua, where the old Coco Palms Hotel (pictured at right) sits by the water - this resort hotel was made famous when Elvis filmed several of his films, including Blue Hawaii, here. The hotel has been closed since Hurricane Iniki on September 11th, 1992, and is the only hotel damaged in the hurricane that has not yet reopened. But there are plans now to demolish the old resort and build a new one in its prime location.

Kauai has the only navigable rivers in the Hawaiian chain, and several of them make for great kayaking spots. The Wailua River (pictured at left and in the large picture at the top of this section) is the largest, smoothest river in Kauai, and it is hands-down the best for a relaxing Kayak ride. Park at the base of the river and choose from one of several kayak companies that launch right along the river, so you don't have to wait for your kayak to be delivered from somewhere else. You can just paddle up the river and back, or you can stop at several locations:

Kamokila Village (pictured at right and in the large picture at the top of this section) - an easy paddle up the river on the right, just before the river fork, this recreation of a traditional Hawaiian Village imagines what life was like for the native Hawaiians pre-contact. When we last visited, a local teen boy showed us around the village, telling us what each building was used for, and demonstrating how the Hawaiians used local plants for food and to make weapons, clothing and paper. We were quite impressed with him and his devotion to his Ohana, or family. He was impressively mature for his age. The Village is highly recommended, and can also be reached by road from above via a steep drive that descends to the river level. Look for the Peacocks that make the village home too.

Fern Grotto (pictured at left) - just a few hundred feet up the left fork of the river, the Fern Grotto is accessible by Kayak - just tie up on the far right side of the dock, and watch for the big Smiths boats that bring tourists up here in groups.

One note: the Fern Grotto itself has been closed for safety reasons - they plan to create a new viewing area where you can see the grotto soon, but it won't be the same as being able to stand in the midst of it and see all the lush ferns hanging down from the black-rock grotto. You can also, as mentioned, get up here on a tour from the Smith's Plantation at the base of the river.

Finally, there's a great hike off the right fork of the river, up to a beautiful waterfall and pool - you can climb behind the waterfall for an extra-romantic kiss. But it's a bit tricky getting there. When you tie up the Kayak, be aware the water is a bit deep... Scott skinned his knee getting out the first time. And it's easy to take the wrong path on the hike, so get good directions from the kayak operator if you plan to attempt this. And though the hike is fairly short - maybe 20-25 minutes - it can be muddy, so wear shoes with good traction. But it's really worth it if you can manage the hike.

The Wailua River is also where the Smith's Tropical Paradise is - the property features a nice botanical garden and a Luau that we'd rate as the second-best on the island, after the Grand Hyatt Luau.

Drive up along the river's north side to see Opaekaa Falls on the right (picture at left), a lovely waterfall that plunges hundreds of feet to a tranquil pool below.

On the left side across the street, you can see Kamokila Village and the Wailua River from above - the picture at the top of this section shows the river and Kamokila Village from this vantage point.

Drive up farther, and eventually you'll come to a place where the road plunges through the river, and there's a beautiful little park that's a great place to take a picnic lunch. be careful, though if you decide to cross the river in a car - the current can be quite strong, especially after a rain storm.

Between here and Kapa'a is where the worst island traffic lies, especially in the afternoon. Although the island population currently hovers around 60,000, tourism in the high seasons can more than double that number, and the road infrastructure is not built to handle this. To help, the County built a bypass road that leaves the oceanside just past Wailua and cuts through old sugarcane land inland, coming back to the water at Kapa'a. Using this bypass at a busy time can shave 10-15 minutes off your drive to or from the north shore, though it's not as pretty as the coast drive.

Sometimes even the bypass doesn't help, as we found out one afternoon. There was a nasty car wreck just before the southern end of the bypass, and the highway was shut down for several hours, making traffic brutal. We sat in the car, eventually turning off the radio and sweltering in the afternoon sun, until they finally rerouted traffic off the road through of the side roads. So you gotta just grin and remember the mantra - at least we're in Hawaii!

Waipouli is next, a town known mostly for its Safeway shopping center and the Wyland Whaling Wall mural (see picture at right) along one side of the center. The center features the other Starbucks on island, as well as a nice grassy courtyard complete with a little stream and bridge - this is a great little picnic spot, or place for people watching with a frappucino.

The Coconut Marketplace is also here - the second-largest shopping center on-island, with several restaurants and the island's other multi-screen cinema (in this case, two theaters) - the other single screen theater is on the south shore).

There's a tower here that used to be a great spot for fireworks watching on the Fourth of July, but, like many other great things, it has been closed for safety reasons. The Marketplace features live hula performances weekly at 5 PM. Check here for more info: http://www.coconutmarketplace.com/.

We caught a great show while we were here, with a local hula school performing.

Just north of the Safeway center is one of our island favorites - Coconuts Restaurant (pictured below). It opened a few months before we left the island, and has held up well. The decor is beach-casual, and the food is really good, though they stopped serving our favorite dish - what can you expect after five years? But this remains a great choice for dinner on the east shore.

Anuenue Plantation is in the highlands above this area - see the lodging section for more info.

In the middle of the eastern coast, Kapa'a (at left) is one of the larger and most charming of Kauai's plantation towns, with a number of great restaurants and boutique stores.

This waterfront town also features one of the world's best vegetarian restaurants, Blossoming Lotus (pictured at right), and a number of great art galleries.

Just north of Kapa'a is Kealia Beach, where there's a weekly gathering of gay men on the island - email Martin at lambda@aloha.net for details, as the gathering sometimes gets rained out. This is a great place to meet locals and other gay visitors to the island.

A little farther up the road, 7/10 of a mile past mile marker 11, there's a path that leads across an old sugar cane field to Donkey Beach, one of Kauai's unofficial nude beaches. Using this beach is AYOR, as nudity is technically illegal here, and there have been some enforcement efforts spurred on by development of this section of the island and prudish homeowners and politicians who don't want their views, ummm, spoiled by unexpected outcroppings.

Next on the highway is Anahola - blink and you'll miss it - but the Ono Burgers at the little stand here are divine, so stop here for lunch one day if you have a chance. Mahina Kai, a beautiful gay owned b&b, is also here, down the southern fork of Aliomanu Rd.

Look up, and you'll see Kong - a rock outcropping that looks a bit like the famous giant gorilla - you may remember seeing this ridge in several movies, including 6 Days, 7 Nights, where it appears once on the island they're flying away from, then again on the "new" island they've just reached. Oops.

North Shore: Kilauea, Princeville, Hanalei

As you pass Anahola, you transition to the tropical north shore. The first town you'll reach here is Kilauea, home to the Kilauea lighthouse - well worth a stop for some great photos of the lighthouse and the northern shore. Turn off at the Kilauea exit, then follow the signs toward the Lighthouse.

On the way, you'll see the Kong Lung center - a small shopping center that features an Island Soap and Candleworks store (pictured at left), which makes handmade soap and candles on premises - a great place for gifts or souvenirs.

The Kilauea Bakery is also here, a hole-in-the-wall place (pictured at right) with some of the best pizza on the north coast.

A little farther down the road is the Kilauea Lighthouse - for a small donation, you can walk out to the rocky peninsula where the lighthouse sits.

The waters are often rough and magnificent here, especially in the inlet between the lighthouse and the next bluff, and you can take some beautiful pictures of the north coast (including Princeville in the distance) on a clear day. Several pictures below:

Kilauea is also the home of Aloha Plantation - a gay friendly B&B just off the highway. See the lodging section below for more details.

Leaving Kilauea, you'll pass through one of the most beautiful little valleys on Kauai, the Kalihiwai valley. There used to be an overlook stop here, but they removed it - now you have to park on the side of the road a little before the valley and walk down. But it is worth it, and there's a beautiful waterfall on the mauka (Mountain) side.

Kauai's other nude beach is also here, just past Kilauea - Secret Beach is accessible at the end of Kalihiwai Rd. Again, using this beach naked is AYOR.

Next is Princeville, the second major resort area on-island. This resort community sits on a high bluff above the sea, and is half residential, half resort/condo. You'll recognize it by the grand fountain (at left) that graces the entrance - looking a bit more Greecian than Hawaiian.

There are several attractions here, including Queen's Bath (pictured at right) - a beautiful saltwater pool on a lava rock shelf just above the water. Get there from a trail at the end of Kapiolani Rd. in Princeville, and follow the trail down to the ocean. For more detailed instructions, see The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook. Be aware the pool is not safe at high tide.

The Princevillle Hotel is another attraction, with an absolutely gorgeous lobby and several great restaurants. There's also a small coffee/breakfast bar with a terrace that boasts the most fantastic view of the Hanalei Bay, (center picture below, beating out our old favorite at the Hanalei Bay Resort - see below). This is a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner, with some of the best views on the island.

When we lived on Kauai, the Bali Hai Restaurant at the Hanalei Bay Resort was one of our regular spots. Bali Hai offered spectacular views of Hanalei Bay and the Pacific beyond. But since most of the timeshare units here were sold, the owners sectioned off part of this open-air restaurant for offices, and removed the signature meals, including the Taro Patch Breakfast (that featured taro hash browns, taro pancakes and taro rolls) and te wonderfully fresh Pineapple spears, They now feature a buffet breakfast only. And worst of all, they've let the plants below the restaurant grow unchecked, and the fantastic bay views are now completely gone. It is with great sadness that we can no longer recommend this restaurant.

Princeville is also home to the largest shopping center on the North Shore (stop here for delicious Lappert's Ice Cream). There's also a pricey grocery store here if you need just one or two things.

Driving down from Princeville, you'll cross the first one-way bridge on the north shore (pictured at left from the Hanalei side) across the Hanalei River. A note about one-way-bridge etiquette - when you approach one, watch for traffic from the other side. The right-of-way belongs to the car that gets there first. That car crosses the bridge, along with any other cars waiting on that side. Then the other side proceeds, again until any waiting cars have crossed the bridge. This assures the most efficient flow, rather than going every other car. It's a bit tricky at first, but you'll quickly get the hang of it.

On the other side of the river lies Hanalei, another charming town with some great stores and restaurants.

Hanalei has one of the largest Taro farms in the islands (pictured from the Princeville Lookout at right) - if you've ever been to a Luau and tried Poi, that bland-salty purple pudding-looking stuff, you've had Taro. It's an island staple, and was a primary source of nourishment for pre-contact Hawaiians. While most folks can't stand Poi, Taro can be quite good - we've had it as Taro pancakes, Taro hashbrowns (very rich and buttery), Taro rolls, and most often, Taro chips, available in many of the stores on-island.

Hanalei also has one of the most beautiful bays in Hawaii - a crescent of white sand around a circular bay, with great surfing/boarding, all against the backdrop of the Hanalei Valley and Mt. Waialeale. After a good rain, waterfalls cascade down the steep mountain face behind Hanalei, Pele's beautiful paradise backdrop to this cute little town - see the picture above, left..

There are two main shopping centers here, one on the north/ocean (maiki) side of the Highway, one on the south.mountain (mauka) side - see the pictures above, center and right)

One of our favorite Kauai restaurants, Bamboo Bamboo, has unfortunately closed in Hanalei, to be replaced by Bar Acuda - we didn't try this new drinks and Tapas place, but we did hear good things about it, and the courtyard seating is still a wonderful place. The picture at right is the courtyard seating area shared by Bar Acuda and Neide's (described below).

But in a pleasant surprise, one of our old regulars, Neide's Brazilian Restaurant (at left), was still in business. The Brazilian dishes are fair, but the Mexican dishes here, though basic fare, are really good, and the portions generous. The prices, while a little higher than we remembered, are still very reasonable, and the shared courtyard is a great place to relax in the early afternoon or in the evening for dinner. A definite must-do on the north shore.

At the Big Save grocery store across the street, you'll find a Subway Sandwiches location - perfect for grabbing a casual sandwich for the beach.

There's also a great gift shop here called Sand People, perfect for unusual island gifts.

On the western end of Hanalei, you'll find a cute American Gothic style church (pictured at right) in a green meadow - this is the oldest surviving church on Kauai, and was completed in 1912.

Farther along the north shore, you'll come to our favorite beach, Lumahai (pictured at left). There are rarely more than 5-10 people here at any one time, and the beach is really long, so it's easy to find a bit of privacy. It's maybe five minutes past Hanalei - after you leave the bay, the road winds up and around the coast.

After a couple minutes, the road straightens out and there's a pasture to your left, often with wild horses. Just ahead you'll see a two lane bridge where the road crosses high above a small river. Just before the bridge, pull off on the Makai side (ocean side) of the road - there's a dirt turn-out here. Park and walk out to the beach.

This beach is fabulous. Most days when the Hanalei Bay is cloudy, you can find sun here. There's a river that winds down to the sea at your left, where you can wade in warm water. Don't try to swim in the ocean here, though, as there are rip tides and swimming can be very dangerous here.

The sand often piles up in two or three banks leading down to the water - put your towels and stuff down on the second bluff, and watch the tourists on the first bluff run when the water rushes up the hill and soaks their towels.

If you're up for a hike, walk eastward about 15 minutes to the end of the beach. This is the quintessential Hawaiian Cove - dramatic black lava rocks rise up from the water, and beautiful tropical jungle frames the white sand cove. If the tide is high, you can reach the cove above the rocks, crossing through the jungle - just be careful because the rocks can be sharp.

There are a few tiny towns out here past Hanalei. There's also the famed Tunnels Beach, a popular surfing beach for the last half century, with a great view of Bali Hai, the rocky outcrop that was used in the movie South Pacific as the Island of Bali Hai, though it's really just a ridge on Kauai (picture at left).

Limahuli Garden is also here (pictured at right), the other beautiful botanical garden on the island, winding up a valley in the shadow of near Bali Hai.

Also off the road here are the Dry Cave, a short, wide cave that extends into the mountainside just off the highway, and the wet caves, including one that leads (via water) into the Blue Room, a beautiful interior cavern where the sunlight from outside is refracted into a stunning blue light. More info on these caves is available in the Ultimate Kauai Guidebook - see info at the end of the article.

Most folks go on to the end of the road at Ke'e Beach, where there's a protected cove for swimming and the start of the Na Pali Coast trail, one of the last truly wild parts of the island. Kauai is the only island of the four major Hawaiian islands that isn't circumnavigated by a highway. The highway ends here on the northeast, and the Na Pali Coast Begins. This is a truly stunning place. If you're a hiker, and have really good hiking books, you may want to attempt to hike the coast. Be aware, though, that the trail is often muddy and slippery, very rocky in places, and not for the faint of heart. It's a good couple hours to the first valley, and the trail proceeds from there, so you can literally spend days up here if you are prepared.

For the less hardy, try a boat tour - there are several, most leaving from Port Allen on the south shore. Some just cruise by, while others will actually let you disembark for lunch. But this side of the island also has the most choppy water, so this option is not for the seasick-prone.

Finally, you can take a helicopter tour to get a wonderful birds-eye view of the coast.

Kauai Movie Tour

For another great way to see the island, consider Hawaii Movie Tours (http://www.hawaiimovietour.com/), the original Kaua'i Movie Tour. When we lived on island, the company had just purchased their second van - now they have a fleet. Vans pick you up at your hotel, and then show you clips from movies on in-van TV's, after which they take you to the place shown in the movie. This is a fun tour that includes lunch, but it is also long... ask where you can be picked up to be last on and first off, so you don't have to spend extra time before and after the tour in the van while they pick up and drop off other folks.

Want to Get Married?

While Hawaii doesn't recognize gay marriage, many folks get swept up by the romance of the island, and decide to have commitment ceremonies here. There's a great lesbian-owned wedding planner/photographer on-island - Blue Pearl Images (formerly In Heaven Hawaii) - website to be completed shortly: http://www.bluepearlimages.com. Candace and Virginia have been together for years and years, and offer wedding services on Kauai and Oahu, including full wedding packages or just a la carte services. Tell 'em Scott & Mark sent you!

Things That Make You Go Hmmm...

Thanks to Paul for the vintage Hawaiiana pics below. The frog caught our eye in a little store on-island - she's all tarted up and ready to go. The bathroom is in Waimea Canyon, and we chucked at the sigsn there - "Men" and "Lady" - just the one?

The vines below reminded us of casper the friendly ghost and snuffalufagus from Sesame Street. And finally, who doesn't wanna live in paradise - besides, it's so cold in his winter home...

Aloha Plantation
4481 Malulani, Kilauea, Kauai, HI
1 808 828-6872
alohaplantation@hawaii.net

The only B&B we visited that's actually in Kilauea Town. Easy accessible from the highway, this homestay features several outdoor seating areas and a jacuzzi, and is a 5 minute walk from Kong Lung center and ten minutes from the Kilauea Lighthouse.

Princeville and Hanalei are 10 Minutes away. and the East Shore is just Half an Hour south.

The Aloha Plantation is gay friendly, and is decorated in Kitschy Hawaiiana, and the owner, Paul, has quite a collection, including old signs, hula girls, and much more. The B&B is in the oldest house in Kilauea, last remodeled in the 1970's. Paul is working, bit by bit, to restore the house to the original state.

This is a great option for folks who want to be on the North Shore or in Kilauea, and for folks on a budget.

Anuenue Plantation
PO Box 226, Kapa'a, Kauai, HI
1 808 823-8335
lodging@anuenue.com
http://www.anuenue.com/

Fred, one of the owners, designed and built the house in 1997. The B&B includes two guest rooms, each with ensuite baths, and guests enjoy a full cooked breakfast each morning. The property features 150 fruit trees and an orchid farm, and is a certified wildlife habitat, where no pesticides are used, and there's room for natural wildlife.

The house also has a guest lounge with a library and television, and a great room that makes a fantastic gathering space, for local events or for guests looking for a venue for a commitment ceremony or party.

The owners, Fred and Harry, can help you find local beaches, trails, excursions, and gay/lesbian groups and events on Kauai. The property's central location makes it ideal for island exploration - just 5 minutes to Kapa'a, 45 minutes to the North Shore, 15 minutes to the Wailua River mouth, and 45 minutes to Poipu. Perfect for singles or couples looking for a private, gay owned getaway.

Garden Isle Ranch
Kilauea, Kauai, Hawaii
1 808 828-6271
info@gardenisleranch.com
http://www.gardenisleranch.com/

This B&B was originally operated by a couple old friends of ours, Mark and Jaime, and was sold a few years ago to the new owners, Mark and David. Just north of Kilauea, this property at the end of a private drive is gorgeous - an open meadow perched above a Kauai stream.

Mark and David offer several accommodations - several rooms in the main house, another in a side building, and a third in an authentic plantation cottage they had brought in from Hanalei. The property features a wifi network with free access for guests.

Rooms are furnished with beautiful tropical furniture imported from Indonesia, and the cottage, in particular, offers great privacy, complete with a large deck that overlooks the stream. There's also a covered palapa on the other side of the main house with a small table, overlooking the stream as well, perfect for playing cards or relaxing and watching the rain fall.

The property is clothing optional, completely surrounded by vegetation, and there's an outdoor shower available for guest use. This part of the north shore is usually sunny, too. The property also has fresh fruit trees and a banana plantation - feel free to pick your own fresh fruit.

Just 10 minutes from Princeville and Hanalei, 5 minutes from Kilauea, and half an hour from the eastern shore, Garden Isle Ranch is a great place for folks who want privacy and peace and quiet, but want to be close to many of the best parts of Kauai.

Kalanikai
2777 Wawae Rd., Kalaheo, Kauai, Hawaii
1 808 332-5149
info@kalanikai.com
http://www.kalanikai.com/

Kalanikai is clothing optional, landscaped for privacy. This exclusively gay/lesbian retreat on the south shore is in Kalaheo just north of the main highway. Run by Tom Dredge, Kalanikai offers three rooms, each with en-suite bathroom, including the Kipu Suite, an apartment unit with a full kitchen. The apartment is beautifully done in a japanese/modern style. The property has a wifi network available to guests.

There are also two outdoor showers (one hot, one cold), and a full pool, sundeck, and two hot tubs for relaxing on a hot day. Tom's a very friendly host, and can clue you into the many wonderful things to do on island, both general (hiking, activities, restaurants) and gay-specific.

Complimentary drinks and snacks are provided, and massage is available upon request.

Kalanikai s close to Kalaheo Town, and is an easy drive to Poipu, Waimea Canyon, or the East Shore. The property is great for gay/lesbian singles or couples wanting an all-gay, clothing optional environment.

Mahina Kai Ocean Villa
4933 Aliomanu Rd., Anahola, Kauai, Hawaii
1 808 822-9451
reservations@mahinakai.com
http://www.mahinakai.com/

Mahina Kai is a B&B with a long gay history - originally opened as a gay bed and breakfast in 1985. The b&b was sold to a straight owner later, but was purchased in the late '90's by Joe Moore, the current gay owner, an has been returned to its gay Kauai roots.

Joe, a contractor, has completely renovated this beautiful property. The first thing you notice as you drive up the palm-lined drive is the fantastic blue-tile roof, which gives this asian-style, low-slung building a distinctive look. The former garage, next to the parking area, has been converted into a private cottage, the first of the property's five rooms.

Climb up the stairs to the main villa, and you enter a wonderfully rambling structure with rooms around every corner. The centerpiece of the villa is the Atrium with a beautiful zen koi pond lit with natural light from the glass ceiling. Off to the right is the kitchen, where Joe serves up fantastic breakfasts, which guests can enjoy on the balcony overlooking the ocean. As part of his work on the property, Joe removed a number of trees that were blocking the view, opening up a fantastic ocean vista.

The house has a very open feeling to it, with several guest rooms opening to a wonderful ocean view, all of which are decorated in a hawaiian or asian style. The house is open to the jungle around you, so expect the occasional intrusion of some of the jungle fauna, including geckoes (considered good luck in Hawaiian homes).

Above the main house is the final guest room - the private Tea Room, an open studio accessed by a stairway at the back of the main villa atrium. The property features a wifi internet network, free to guests.

There's also a beautiful, clothing optional pool area below the main house which is private and inviting… the water turquoise blue, and is protected by a bamboo fence. There's also a jacuzzi, where you may spot a couple college-age guys in the buff, as we did when we visited Joe this trip.

Joe lives on the premises, and is available to give you tips about the island and gay Kauai life. The property is mostly but not exclusively gay, and attracts interesting, open-minded folks from around the world. And Joe is the consummate innkeeper, knowing exactly what his guests want, often before they do. A great place to stay on the east shore.

Poipu Plantation
1792 Pe'e Rd., Poipu, Kauai, Hawaii
1 808 742-6757
poipu@poipubeach.com
http://www.poipubeach.com/

Just steps from the ocean and a great Honu (Sea Turtle) watching spot, this gay owned resort offers nine cottage-style vacation rentals in Poipu, on the sunny south shore.

While the clientele is not primarily gay, the owners are, and they will see to your comfort during your south shore visit. In addition to the vacation rentals, they also offer two bed and breakfast rooms in the plantation house at the front of the property, one of which is the Ali'i Suite, their largest and most recently remodeled room, complete with a kitchenette and balcony with an ocean view.

Rooms are beautiful, with hardwood floors, tropical furnishings, and shoji screens separating the living and sleeping rooms. Most rooms have kitchenettes, so you can cook at home if you want, to save money or if you get tired of eating out. Every room has air conditioning. There's wifi access on-site, but only in the common areas - rooms offer a dial-up phone line. And their rooms are very affordable for folks on a budget.

From here, it's an easy walk to Poipu Beach Park (2 minutes) to the west or to Shipwreck Beach (five minutes) to the east. You're also close to the east shore (20 minutes to Lihue by car) and 45 minutes to Waimea Canyon to the west.

Poipu Plantation is perfect for singles, couples, and families wanting affordable, high quality, clean accommodations on the South Shore.

Click Any Picture Below to See More

Here is a resource we found helpful during our visit to the Big Island. Please remember that the advice in any listed resources is AYOR.

The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook

http://www.wizardpub.com/

This is our favorite guidebook series. While not a gay guide, these books are beautiful, featuring tons of full color photos, and are easy to thumb through to find great, interesting places and things to see all over the island.

Another big plus - these books, unlike most of the books we've seen, detail the mile markers on the highways where you can find each of these sights - a huge help in a place like Hawaii that's not big in street numbering.

Pick up this book before you go, or stop by a bookstore on-island to get a copy after you arrive. Borders in Lihue at the Kukui Grove senter usually carries them.

Kaua'i is a fantastic, mystical place that changes everyone who visits it. Be careful coming here the first time - it may get into your blood. Farewell, Kaua'i, until next time.

Section 3: TRAVELERS' COLUMNS

Traveling can get expensive! So in this column we are going to suggest some ways to cut down on your traveling expenses.

Be NICE to the travel personnel you encounter. Compliments do pay off! We have received a lot of seat upgrades to first class by just being really nice to flight attendants.

Always dress well when flying. They don't want people wearing t-shirts and flipflops in first class or anywhere on the plane for that matter.

You can save money by using your cell phone rather than the telephone in your accommodations as they always add on their own extra fees for your long distance call. Always travel with a prepaid phone card.

Roasted chicken purchased at a supermarket or deli makes a delicious and very reasonable meal when combined with a salad, bread and wine. Whether dining in your room, on a picnic or anywhere, this is a great alternative to spending a lot of money at a restaurant.

Don't you just HATE it when your liquor bill is more than your meal? Have cocktails BEFORE you dine out for dinner. Desserts are getting so expensive now so beware of the cost before ordering.

Almost all libraries offer free Internet computers to anyone so that you can check your emails while traveling. Sure beats paying a few dollars at Internet places like Kinkos.

Don't waste money purchasing street maps when visiting a new city. Most local telephone directories have city maps right in them.

Rather than pay daily rentals of $5.00 or more a day for a beach chair, simply go to a discount store and purchase one for under $10.00 and then just give it to someone or give it to the resort your staying in for future guests. We know guys who have spent over $100.00 renting beach chairs when they could have saved so much. It's either money in YOUR pocket or money in THEIR pocket!

After checking into your room check the local phone directory. Often they have restaurant coupons in the back for restaurants, especially pizzas.

Even after you make a hotel reservation, place a later call (using another name) just before your arrival to again check the rate. You may save money.

Some frequent guest programs are really too good to be true. The Inter-Continental Hotels cost $135.00 a year buy you get two free nights right off the bat. Other hotel chains have similar perks so be sure and check them all out. At Super 8's you can even write a check upon your arrival if you are a member for up to $100.00 extra.

If your public TV or radio station belongs to the Public Broadcasting Member Card system, and 90 of them do, go to www.membercard.com and you can enjoy two for one dining at excellent restaurants throughout the country. Hundreds of restaurants over the U.S. are involved in this program. It is also good for museums and local theatres.

Buying a submarine sandwich at your local deli and taking it to the airport with you is a much better and cheaper alternative than purchasing food at the airport.

Renting an auto? Be sure and do your homework before hand. Check around. Internet prices are always lower than calling their 800 numbers. Be sure and join EVERY auto rental agency's clubs. Doesn't cost a dime and they are always sending you bulletins on specials that they have.

When driving, be sure and buy a six pack (or two six packs) of soda before taking off. Sure beats paying $1.00 or more out of a machine. Peanuts, crackers, fruit and cheeses makes for a delicious snack when driving.

When arriving in a new city, always purchase the local newspaper. They have a lot of two for one coupons for restaurants coupons in them especially on the weekends. You can also check out the lower prices for movie theaters.

Most Holiday Inns, Ramada's, Sheraton's, etc. have great happy hour specials with really inexpensive drink prices and a wonderful array of food. Many offer free pizza, sandwiches, etc.

Traveling is fun, educational and a great way to see the Country and to meet new people. Simply by doing a little homework BEFORE you take off you should be able to find many ways to cut your traveling expenses.

In our travels we meet, talk with and email so many different and interesting people. Craig Stewart in Australia is one of those people. He and his life-partner, Mogens have been together for 5 years. Craig is an amateur photographer and a VERY GOOD ONE !!!!! Check out his website at: http://home.austarnet.com.au/stewfamily/ Here are just a couple examples of his fabulous work!

As for us, we leave on a 4 week driving trip to Florida in January to get out of the cold here in the Midwest. We wish all of our readers a VERY Happy Holiday Season!

Always remember to have fun when traveling, meet new people and TALK to everyone.

Traveling in Our Fabulous World is written by Donald Pile and Ray Williams Award-winning Celebrity travel columnists who write for gay publications from Coast to Coast. You can email them at Gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their webpage at http://www.hometown.aol.com/gaytravelers.

On their 25th Anniversary, Elizabeth Taylor wrote, "Congratulations to the two of you on your 25th Anniversary! You have surely reached an important milestone in your lives together, and I send you my best wishes as you celebrate tonight". Candice Gingrich wrote, "Your enduring relationship is another shining example of what "family values" is and should be about... trust, security, love commitment. Continued success in your togetherness".

The feverish development of all-inclusive resorts blooming across the Caribbean   offers the budget-conscious traveler an expanded range and variety of comprehensive one-stop beach holidays and for the more affluent vacationer a heady selection of indulgent, opulently decorated and architecturally innovative beach-front hotels. 

Superclubs, Inc., based in Kingston, Jamaica, is one of the hotel companies striving to keep ahead of the renaissance in innovative vacations by aggressively building new resort properties across the Caribbean and focusing its efforts in Jamaica.

 Breezes Resort, Montego Bay, the company's modestly-priced 112 room beach front property, is compactly shoe-horned between the local main road and  the ever opalescent Caribbean. All the hotel's spacious and well appointed rooms face Doctor's Cave Beach and the curving strand of brilliant, white powder sand that appears to make or break a hotel's location. The well-trained staff, casually polite without the arch British mannerisms lingering across the Commonwealth's islands, lowers the sometime tense barriers that often  arise between serenely informal guests and a socially defensive island staff.

Heading 50 miles west across the northern tier of Jamaica to the Negril area resorts dense rain forests and verdant pastures snuggle against the shoulders of the new road that now brings vacationers quickly and smoothly from Montego Bay International Airport .

The 210 room Grand Lido Negril Resort and Spa is one of the several new, deluxe, all - inclusive resorts lining the curving white sand shores of the Caribbean. Here, the bay front, formerly known as Bloody Bay, the notorious site of 19th C. whale slaughtering, is now  an idyllic strand of blinding  white sand dotted at the water's edge with the colorful sails and hulls of  the resort's catamarans, sailboats and launches.

The resort's elegantly decorated low-rise buildings, discreetly arranged on 22 acres of rolling lawns dramatically punctuated by stands of exotic trees and shrubbery, are laced through with tiled canals in  which water trickles and tumbles on its way through several open air pavilions and the expansive, breeze-swept main lobby.

Hotel guests are welcomed and pre-registered at the resort's airport reception room and upon arrival at the hotel are individually escorted to their rooms by gracious members of the front desk staff. The sleek hotel brags of its five a la carte restaurants available to guests at no extra charge and proudly boasts of The Piacere, the only Conde Nast five star-rated, 6-course, white-glove French restaurant in the Caribbean. The elegant dining experience, tempered by the staff's courteous and efficient service, was accompanied by  an unobtrusive pianist. 

For the ardent and dedicated sun-worshipper the hotel has put aside a sedate, secluded, clothing optional beach and pool on the  Western edge of its bay front. On the other side of the plant shrouded property line is the Negril's premier vacation play pen, Hedonism II, and the start of the world famous Seven Mile Beach's grand curve of powder sand.

Hedonism II, the adults-only, all-inclusive resort best known for its relaxed and encouraging welcome to clothing optional vacationers, is regarded as the perfect spot in Negril  for the party animal. Set amidst twenty-two acres densely planted with groves of palms and tropical foliage that surround and insulate the hotel's two-story buildings, each of the 280   rooms is fitted with  the requisite mirrored ceiling, king-sized bed and Euro-style shower or Jacuzzi.  The hotel's team of imaginative social directors arranges the crammed schedule of  day-long, non-stop entertainment that ensures the party level never sags and maintains the breathtaking pace of events and demonstrations on the pool patios, beaches and pools -divided between the nudes and the ëprudes'-  the eager participants relish and enjoy.

Eager to keep its reputation as the fun place to vacation, the hotel's daily activity board lists over twenty on-site activities and programs topped off in the evening with a riotous, raucous staff/guest amateur night followed by an outrageous, late-night disco pajama-party.

For the  sports enthusiast eager to keep fit and active there are the several basketball and tennis courts, an indoor, air-conditioned squash court, a full range of water sports including para-sailing, snorkeling, scuba and  kayaking  and a lengthy list of off- site choices that include horseback riding, golf, fishing and other exciting island adventures and excursions.

Retracing our drive back toward from Montego Bay we drove eastwards to the Grand Lido Braco Resort and Spa.

Striving to brand itself as an architecturally and esthetically unique luxury resort, the Grand Lido Braco avoided typical high rise cliches and created an innovative vacation experience on Discovery Bay.

Set on eighty two acres of magnificently groomed greenery that includes a nine-hole ëexecutive golf course', the hotel's 226 rooms are located in a series of faux-Victorian, gingerbread-trimmed, pastel-painted two- and three-story ocean front and garden-view buildings. Fifty two rooms on the western side of the hotel are reserved for guests who prefer to enjoy  to vacation ëau naturelle.'

The center of the hotel's activities and reception are located in small, colonial style  pavilions that comprise the town square. From this open air entry-way cobblestone lanes lead to various services, meeting rooms, boutiques, outdoor restaurants, the pool complexes and white sand beach and perhaps the most daring innovation of all, a sleek,  floor-to-ceiling glass-walled spa and  fitness center that appears to float above the changing turquoise and aquamarine Caribbean.

A few minutes further along the road in Trelawney, thirty five miles east of Montego Bay, is the oceanfront Starfish Resort, a value-priced, all- inclusive getaway with facilities, programs and good-sized rooms in the towers and pool-side cabanas (occupancy limited to two adults or three children) designed to meet the needs and expectations of young families. Young parents in need of quiet time can take advantage of  the supervised Kids' Club and its full-day schedule of activities for youngsters, the Babe-e-care program for toddlers under six months of age and for older children a circus workshop, full sports program with basketball and tennis courts, rock climbing wall and a fiberglass-surfaced ice skating rink all conveniently adjacent to the large pool complex.  In the early evening hours the entertainment staff schedules time in the Disco.

Rooms, a 97 room value-property on the bay front in the steamy and somewhat rundown Ocho Rios, is conveniently located around the corner from the city's shopping centers, open-air crafts' markets and numerous jewelry and T-shirt /souvenir stores. This EP property is aimed at those more adventurous travelers and family groups interested in a more spontaneous and unstructured vacation than the pre-packaged all-inclusive resort experience. Dunn River Falls, Jamaica's #1 tourist attraction, Dolphins' Cove and  Hooves for Guided Tours on Horseback are five minutes away. Greens fees a at nearby golf club are included in the room rates.

Referring to itself as "...an oasis of pure pleasure" Hedonism III for adult singles and couples is tucked away on the eastern end of Runaway Bay on Jamaica's North Shore. The resort's 235 rooms are large and well appointed with Jacuzzi tubs and mirrored ceilings. The resort's colorfully painted colonial-style, three-story buildings are situated on 12 carefully landscaped acres planted with dense stands of palms and flowering shrubs that enhance the privacy required for the sans-clothing pool and beach areas. On Thursday evenings the riotous Staff and Guest Show, a series of raucous and suggestive antics, is followed by the good natured if not revealing toga party, the highlight of the week's schedule of on-site activities and off-site adventures aimed at keeping the eager clients in a continuous party mood.

Sweet child
Feel free
in your ecstasy
You are the bowl for your soul
Sweet child
Fly

 That was an expression I heard once whispered in a dream and I suddenly recalled as I was departing from foggy San Francisco, the city I call home. It was a late October morning and I was heading east to join my partner in crime.

Now when I say east, I mean it, east as to Italy. And when I say partner in crime, it is figurative.

My soul was elated to be in flight again and on a journey back to him. Better yet, our final destination was Tuscany. This intensely beautiful region of Italy always appeals to us and it never fails to sweep me into a state of romantic contemplation. But like so much of life, even romantic contemplation, and especially execution involves a bit of effort. So here I was on my way with two very large pieces of luggage, a laptop, and a lot of promotional material for TUSCAN-COLORS, our new company specializing in deluxe travel services for the GBLT community in Tuscany.

Now my partner is the more outwardly romantic and normally such a sugary sweet beginning to an article would send me into a diabetic coma. But as the years slip me further forward it is funny how sentimentality bubbles up more freely to the surface. In therapy parlance, I am learning to silence my inner critic.

We met in San Francisco in 2003. Our courtship was delicious. Our hearts engaged. And when the dust settled, we knew that a long distance relationship was the only option for us at first. But being two very worldly gay men we knew that in order for this to truly have a chance we would need open dialogue, commitment to the relationship, and the resolve to dissolve that distance barrier. So for over the last three years we have worked hard to unite our two very distant worlds, to re- position them in closer proximity.

The trip I was embarking on was not only to recharge our love batteries but to inspect several new properties we were interested in representing and to do a special educational with our most prestigious client and partner, RSVP Vacations. Now usually I am the driver and as I whisked everyone around glorious Tuscany we inspected many new and exciting properties and had some amazing meals and delightful conversations. Here is a recap of the properties that really sparkled.

First up was the enchanting Castello di Spaltenna. This renovated monastery and castle was impeccable run by the inspiring Guido Conti. We were amazed at its charm. Every creature comfort was in place and at your finger tips. The in house staff is incredibly friendly and attentive and the restaurant, which is the culinary brainchild of Davide Canini, is not to be missed. If at all possible, make sure to eat out in the courtyard, where during the meal you are treated to the ringing of the church bells and to the beauty of the Tuscan sky. TUSCAN-COLORS is looking forward to a return visit soon.

Much to my surprise, the next property we had the pleasure of seeing was Casa Bellavista. This fully renovated villa and farmhouse is run by Guido Conti’s gregarious wife, Simonetta Demarchi. The bucolic villa and farm sits on an open plane where in the late summer it is set afloat by the ocean of sunflowers surrounding it, sunflowers as far as the eye can see. While there you can partake in top notch Tuscan cooking lessons taught by Simonetta, or simply lounge down at the beautiful swimming pool. There are also complimentary vespas to tour the countryside or visit Cortona on. It doesn’t get any sweeter than that!

The third property we had the pleasure of inspecting was La Quercia Rosa. This rustic and thoughtful villa is both gay owned and gay friendly. It is operated by a charming couple who have decorated each available room with the finest Tuscan antiques from the 1500 and 1600’s. During our peaceful stay we were treated to a wonderful breakfast served in the sunny and spacious dining room. We then hung out at the newly renovated swimming pool, drinking homemade lemonade in the lazy mid day sun. At night we would converse with the other guests drinking some of the finest Tuscan wine from the owner’s private cellar. Bella Fortuna!

Next up was the gay owned Villa le Masse. What a spread and they had just broken ground on some new apartments they were adding for their guests. We were amazed at the charm and integrity of the place. The two gay owner’s, Alessandro and Edgar, are both architects and the place is a testament to their art and work. TUSCAN-COLORS has some big ideas for this stunning property down the road, but if you get a chance to stay there on you own, DO! We highly recommended it.

As I ripped through the Tuscan country side in our rented Alpha Romeo the next property we hit was the top notch Hotel Relais La Suvera. Now when I sell my first million dollar painting, this is the place I want to rent to celebrate with my friends and family. This Relais Chateau property is shear elegance and will captivate you. I was constantly reassured by its élan, grace, and vital. After our tour of the property the charming general manager, Simona Coltellini, invited us to stay for a five star lunch by the pool. We savored every course brought to us and left satiated. I look forward to that painting selling soon.

Now I am not a size queen, but when I saw the size of the bathtub in the presidential suite at L’andana I just about fainted. You literally could swim laps in it. This newly renovated summer palace was once owned in the 16^th century by Duke Leopold II. The property contains a full spa and 4 star restaurant, which reflects the culinary genius of French Celebrity Chef Alain Ducasse who is one of the owners. The rooms are elegantly furnished and it is located near the revitalized beach resort area of Castiglioni. Enjoy!

Now, on the earthier side of things, one of my favorite places to stay when driving around the Chianti Wine region is the Relais Fattoria Vignale located in Radda. The hotel was the manor house of a large wine estate and has been carefully restored preserving the original architectural features. Its ideal hilltop location offers unforgettable vistas of the beautiful countryside laced with vineyards and dotted with olive trees. The history of this establishment is intimately linked with that of the Chianti wine itself. It was here in August 1924 that Baldassarre Pianigiani, then public notary of Radda and owner of the property, created the Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) symbol to distinguish the local wines and established the Consortium for the protection of wine production standards.

How is that for history? 

So there you have it!

Now you just need to take the time to get here. 

FLY

We launched TUSCAN-COLORS in April of 2006 with our good friend Ornella Tempestini. Our goal was to not only create a company which provided deluxe travel services in TUSCANY for the GLBT community but to also act as a container for the multitude of gay owned and gay friendly travel related businesses in Tuscany. We are very proud to say that every one of the businesses we represent is either one or the other. Please visit http://tuscan-colors.net/glbttours/index.php for more information about us!

Nathan Aaron Place works primarily as an artist and his passion for the visual arts is expressed through painting, sculpture, mixed mediums and installations. His work is in collections throughout Europe and the Americas. He is also the vice president and co-owner of TUSCAN-COLORS, which provides deluxe travel services in Tuscany and also Italy. Although retired from acting, he has had the honor of performing with the California Shakespeare Festival, Theater of Yugen, Eastenders Repertory Co., George Coates Performance Works, Art of the Matter, and CRISUS. He was also a founding member of the Cutting Ball Theater Company and has performed in several productions with them. His New York credits include performances at La MAMA, PS 122, and the Nikolais and Lewis LAB. He also has had the honor of working in productions at The Guthrie Theater & the Children’s’ Theater Company in Minneapolis. At your leisure… and in your dreams!