Restaurants in Guadalajara

La Rin Conada is a wonderful place to start a culinary adventure in Guadalajara. It’s in the heart of the Centro Histórico, and we were in awe at the handsome historical buildings we walked past to get there. Not that there’s a thing wrong with the gorgeous edifice that houses this restaurant in an interior courtyard where a series of columns and fancy arches support a glass ceiling with a huge chandelier. Several small rooms that surround it are available for private parties.  Its ornate stone exterior is in vivid gold and gray, with a series of white-topped arched windows.

We started with a sturdy Tortilla Soup filled with so many goodies it could easily have been called a stew, and shared a dish called Cecina, actually aromatic chunks of oven-dried beef that had been marinated in a herby brew. The Arrachera, a grilled skirt steak was reasonably tender and very flavorful, despite its pale coloration. Sharing the plate was creamy fresh Guacamole, Frijoles and Whipped Potatoes. I had a delicious fish fillet cooked sealed in an aluminum foil pouch along with shrimp, onions, peppers, mushrooms, spinach and white wine; and one of my friends had a very respectable Chicken Fajitas. My fourth bud either wasn’t too hungry or something, because he had a pleasant mixed greens Salad with citrus, tomato and avocado slices tossed in, followed by a quartet of fat Quesadillas folded like tacos and oozing with mild white cheese, all served with a mound of creamy Frijoles. A grainy caramel-topped Flan made it around the table two times before we gave up. Total tab for all (for four people) with tip was about $70. Morelos 86 (at the Plaza Tapatia, by the fountain of the four boys), Guadalajara, Phone 3-613-9925.

Thursday means Market Day in Tonalá, and we were like little kids running back and forth among the stalls, pointing out treasures to each other. Of course that make one (actually there were three of us) quite ravished, and Mariscos El Arandense was one of Lars’ favorites. The large room was dressed nautically, since it is a seafood place, and the Shrimp & Oyster Cocktail was nice and briny in some of its own juice and a bit of hot tomato sauce both for taste and color. Slices of avocado abated the heat a bit, and were most welcome. The three Quesadillas con Queso y Chorizo were hot and homemade, the sausage being assertive and the cheese a good neutral carrier. We shared them, perking up our appetites for the rest of the meal. The Beef Fajitas Alambre came in finely cut chunks, and was pretty tasty for a meat dish in a fish place. More in keeping, and a great choice it turned out, was the Tostada Chipotle Marlin, a slightly oily fish that takes well to having a smoky flavor. Being melded into a copious tomato-based sauce made it suitable for eating only with utensils. I loved my Sopa de Mariscos, this version in a thin tomato infused broth so you could see the chunks of fish filets and the various shellfish therein. It was as fresh tasting as could be, and was crowned with a half of a crab and sided with a half of an avocado and some onions, tomato bits and cilantro. The Flan for dessert was like a wedge of pie, not as sweet but richer and creamier than the one the day before. Total tab (for three people) including tip was about $32. Tonaltecas 69, Tonalá, Phone 3-683-4483.

Mi Cardio Picaduria would be a very pleasant place to dine, even if your hosts weren’t good friends with the two women owners. If we got extra attentive service (and I don’t think we really did — just professionally trained, yet personable and efficient), that would be the connection. The premise that Mediterranean food is supposed to be heart healthy undoubtedly dictated the name. It was another very pleasant night and we enjoyed sitting on the patio, listening to the live jazz music with half an ear, the lively conversation with the other half.

We decided to make a meal out of small plates plus a pizza. Chris tried a Kalimocho, which turned out to be a mixture of rosé wine and Coca Cola! And, just like Mikey … he liked it! The rest of us settled for plain old Refrescos (soft drinks, like Coca Lite).

Six Bruschettas (per order) came with red ripe tomato bits, lots of seasoning and melted cheese. It almost was like getting a pizza before our pizza. An order of Kepe Bola contained two pear-shaped and –sized herby baked meatballs augmented with grains and piñon nuts, sided with a pool of delicious hummus drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and topped with a juicy black olive and a chiffonade of fresh basil leaves. The Giros Plate had two halves of a split pita (unfortunately, not the fat fluffy kind) stuffed with ham, grapes(!), tasty tomato slices and oozing with melted Gruyère, served alongside a bit of crisp Greek salad. This one is really meant as a main dish for one, but we managed to split it four ways, each one pretty messy, I must admit. A Mio Cardio Salad, however, we easily divided, having only a pleasant blend of sundried tomatoes, panela cheese, artichokes and olives tossed between the greens. 

Champinones Misu was a bowlful of peeled plump whites imbued with a most intriguing marinade, a wonderful pairing with the Pesto of sundried tomato, black and green olives, capers and a generous pinch of herbs, not finely chopped together as usual, but coarsely cut so each morsel could be tasted separately, yet with the background of the whole group. Another main dish turned tapas was a wedge of lattice-topped savory meat and potato Quiche Mache, plated with more Greek Salad. A big round of cheese pizza covered with cold cuts, onions, tomatoes and white cheese was every bit as tasty as it was fine looking. I can’t imagine us not having dessert, even after all that great food (total for everything, including tip, a mere $66 for four people), but I have no notes or pictures of any, so I guess we didn’t. Tepeyac 189 (2 blocks from Lázaro Cárdenas), Guadalajara, Phone 3-587-5790.

So far we haven’t mentioned breakfasts yet, since we had them at La Perla (not that Lars can’t make a fine “expanded Continental,” mind you,) but we’d rather expand upon those had away from the house. The first of these was at the large, somewhat formal Circulo Frances restaurant in the Alliance Française, a club for those of French origins. Considering the setting, the prices were surprisingly reasonable. First we were brought out a basket of various Mexican pastries, some sugared, some not. They actually took on a different accent with a smear of butter. The Eggs Benedict had nicely assertive ham and a light-textured Hollandaise with a welcome bold streak of lemon, and fabulous pan-browned potatoes with onions. The Omelet de Tres Quesos looked innocent enough, but any omelet full of Port-Salud, Emmenthal and Cabra is bound to tickle your taste buds. (Somehow I don’t remember Lars laughing out loud.) It came with okay beans, crema and superior crispy tortilla chips topped with melted shreds of tangy cheese.

Bob’s French Omelet Circulo, served with the same trio as Tres Quesos, was toastier looking and lumpy from all the cubed jamón (ham), cebolla (onions), queso (cheese), jitomate (tomato) and pimiento, along with fines herbes (which are not cubed) inside. I had Chicharrón en Salsa Verde, soft and tender bits of meat in a quite assertive tomatillo and chile sauce. Funny, but when we all shared, my dish had few takers. Their bad — it was delicious! The total tab with four juices and four coffees (for the four of us) was $34, including gratuity. López Cotilla 1199, Guadalajara, Phone 3-825-2140.

Of all the meals we had in Jalisco (the Mexican state that Guadalajara, Lake Chapala — and even Puerto Vallarta — are in), one of the most memorable for the quality of the food and the enchanting setting (and the smooth service) is Casa Fuerte in Tlaquepaque. In an ancient building with lots of character, there is a wide but not too deep dining room with a grand, antique carved wooden bar in front, and a spectacular swagged-canvas covered patio in back with trickling fountains, big trees, and lovely little touches all over. Naturally if the weather is good (it almost always is), sit on this dreamy patio and expect (and receive) some of the finest food around. The servers will match your anticipated pace, but this is a perfect time to slow it down to a native leisure tempo, and enjoy life as it should be.

We started with a Chile Casa Fuerte, a large, mild chipotle filled with zucchini blossoms delicately flavoring melted panela cheese under a blanket of velvety walnut sauce and Colonial Corn Cake, a mellow roasted disk topped with a creamy bell and poblano pepper sauce with green chile strips for a bit of zippiness. These were followed by Tamarindo Shrimp, large crustaceans in a sweet and tangy sauce, and Chicken Breast Stuffed With Cuitlacoche, a distinctive tasting corn “mushroom.” Both were incredible. We even managed to save room for dessert, a Pie de Trufa (truffles — something I’ve never had in a dessert before) y Chocolata y Almondras. Actually, I couldn’t taste the truffles, but the chocolate was very rich and had an uncanny depth of essence. It’s amazing, but the whole lunch experience was stimulating by its very serenity, if you know what I mean. If not, you need to have a leisurely lunch here and you will. We spent a well-merited $58 here for the two of us, tip included. Independencia 224-A, Tlaquepaque, Phone 3-639-6481. www.casafuerte.com.

La Fonda de San Miguel is an elegant gay-owned restaurant whose setting is the (covered) courtyard of an old convent. At night, especially, it is one of the most charming venues in all of Guadalajara, with countless lighted tin stars shining down from above and countless candles glowing throughout giving off an old-world aura. Massive stone arches and columns support a second-story gallery, and centuries-old polychromed Santos abound in niches, on shelves and among the greenery.

Along with a loaf of bread you are served four freshly fried rolled tortillas radiating out from a pile of salsa and sour cream. and pungent red and green sauces on attractive hand-painted pottery dishes. A tasty Sopa Crema Verde had an island of sliced mushrooms and corn kernels in a creamy cilantro base. We also split a Chile en Nogada as an appetizer, a grand idea since its size suggests other than entrée, but it is rich enough to tantalize one’s taste buds to the extreme. A big Poblano pepper is stuffed with fruit, cereal and meat, doused in a walnut sauce and topped with tangy pomegranate seeds, a beautiful sight and an irresistible dish for me. My dining partner got first dibs on the Chamorro Uriel, a specialty of the house. A meaty and tender veal shank is cooked in an unusual sauce of tomato, chile and a touch of chipotle chile for a nice bit of smokiness, served with a few whole oven-roasted potatoes. I had to “suffer” with Molcajete del Mar, a large bubbling stoneware pot of assorted fish, shrimp and vegetables in a three-chile cheese sauce. Poor me! Then we both did suffer a little bit (we only ate a couple of forkfuls) from a stale piece of Cheesecake (I guess you can’t have Flan every meal). Total for everything (for two people), including tip, was about $55 Look for the green awning at Donato Guerra 25, Centro Histórico, Guadalajara, Phone 3-613-0809. www.lafondadesanmiguel.com.

If Denny’s were in Guadalajara, it probably would be called La Chata.  Its Paquette No. 2 might be OJ and a Cheese and Bacon Omelet with so-so beans and terrific chilaquiles. A Chorizo Omelet would have the same sides — just a different middle, and both would be tasty.

I got a dish of Asada Con Chicharrones Verde Embollada Con Huevos (strips of beef and eggs with pork skins in a green sauce with onions), which was just dandy (and surely wouldn’t be in a stateside Denny’s). All this fed three people (including drinks and tip) for less than $20 total. I know Denny’s couldn’t come close to that! Corona 126 (between López Cotilla and Juárez), Guadalajara, Phone 3-613-1315.

If Casa Fuerta was the biggest surprise, El Sacromonte surely was the biggest disappointment in all of metro Guadalajara. We had heard and read so many fine comments about this place, and visually it was all that and more. There were a few small rooms and a rather large courtyard decorated in the epitome of “Old Mexico,” just shy of genuine kitch. The walls were that rich but mellow gold (that’s so hard to get just right) with light blue highlights, and funky tin lights giving off precisely the proper glow. Even the menu read like a dream. Okay. End of dream … beginning of nightmare.

The waiter was so seriously proper he was laughably foolish. And not all that efficient as he made himself out to be. But even that would have been forgivable had the food been good. It didn’t even have to be great, although it should have been at those prices. Anyway, here goes. We began with a Quesadilla de “Las Cibeles,” the specialty of the house: petals of roses and fresh cheese logs slathered with a sweet strawberry aioli, one of the most ill conceived dishes ever (but, with a little tweaking, it might have made a decent dessert). It looked beautiful, but we picked at it for a short while and gave up. The other appetizer we were anticipating with eager trepidation, El Tartín de Berenjenas, an eggplant tart with pepper sauce, smoked oysters and clams, we never got. By the waiter’s error, we got a Tostada “El Sacromonte,” a strange combination of beans, fried shrimp, lettuce, cream and onion seedlings, which actually tasted yummy. A breadbasket of Parker House Rolls (from freezer to oven to table?) and Cheese Sticks, way beneath the quality this restaurant was trying to display, was carelessly deposited on our table.

Next course consisted of two soups, the Sopa el Viejo Progreso, ordered for its unlikely combination of flavors of Roquefort cheese and chipotle chile, which turned out to be a brilliant pairing; and Noodles “Dona Eulogia,” a “dry soup” of noodles (like spaghetti) with a sauce of tomato and oregano (like spaghetti), served with dough “escargots” sprinkled in butter with aged cheese and cream, where the fake snails were leagues better than the real spaghetti part.

However, we plodded on to the entrées, including a Duck St. Rose of Lima, a “juicy lacquered Canadian duck bathed in a syrup of crunchy rose petals.” It turned out to be half a bird, but the breast part was so wizen even the far-too-gooey (blah tasting) sauce couldn’t save it. At least the dark meat was alright. The other was “Queen Isabel's Crown,” a dish of shrimp sitting atop a ball of fried spinach, supposedly in the shape of a crown, covered in a lobster-and-orange sauce. The shrimp were big and flavorful, the sauce was interesting but far from arresting, and the spinach was just plain awful. The Tarta de Frutas, although a good looker, did not cap the meal in a good way. Even the tart, itself, had some sort of piped-on white chocolate top that looked (dare we say!) like noodles, and the pretty Mexican design of kiwi and strawberry coulis on the side was far too sweet and icky. Did I mention that we were disappointed? The total tab, including gratuity, came to just under $80. Pedro Moreno 1398, Guadalajara, Phone  3-825-5447. www.sacromonte.com.mx.

The next day we went to the burbs ogling a gated community of newly built mansions on a suburban hillside with fabulous vistas of all of Guadalajara — which is very spread out — and beyond. Just outside the gates is the tiny town of Bouganbilia, with a good-sized restaurant named Canelo’s (which probably could seat the whole town at the same time). The atmosphere is quite casual, and, it turned out, the service was very casual too. Our two hour lunch was, indeed, quite satisfying in every other respect. It seems our waiter was far more interested in the waitress from the next station than the three gay customers he was supposed to service! However, the food, for a cold call place (we knew nothing about it before we spotted it on the roadside) was really surprisingly solid.

Our meal plan was simple: we would share a Parrillada Mixta (grilled beef, chicken and chorizo), augmenting it with guacamole, frijoles and an order of four cheese-filled quesadillas. As you can see in the photo, the platter of meats was gigantic. All were juicy and smoky, and tender to boot. What more could you want? The guac was outstanding, the beans even better, and the mellow grilled cheese tortilla sandwiches paired perfectly with the grilled platter’s overflowing contents. Yes, we did need a doggy bag! Cost with stingy tip to feed three (plus two the next day) was $38. Lopez Mateos 7777 (Col. Miguel de la Expedido), Zapopan.

La Fonda de la Noche is a quaint little place in a more residential area, hidden behind a large hedge. It definitely is worth seeking out. The layout has several dining areas on two plus levels with an open well in the middle. The owner’s art collection provides the décor, which is quite varied in styles, media and quality. The menu is rather concise, and we tried to order a variety of dishes, some conveniently come in dinner combos. Everything was simple, cheap and delicious, starting with Queso Frito (rolled pancakes of fried cheese) with three zippy salsas, all in dark red clay dishes. Dense posoles of pork and hominy topped with shredded lettuce, with side condiments of radish, limes, onions, oregano and ground chile led into a platter of a tostada, enchilada mole (bravo!), empanada and sope (a masa shell filled with meat). For dessert we tried to find Vidda Café (in the neighborhood — somewhere) in vain. We did find it the next day and had marvelous crepes (read about it in the main story under Where to Eat). Less than $25 filled us both up completely, tip included. 251 Calle de Jesus, phone 3-827-0917.

Breakfast at Kamilos 333 was a tasty bargain for Lars, Bob and me. We had Huevos Rancheros, Huevos con Tocino (bacon) y Queso and Machaca con Huevos (not shredded, as usual, but cut in small pieces), along with three fat Picaditas de Carne (like gorditas, but these are stuffed inside with meat).

Just for good measure we shared a plate of Lengua con Salsa Verde (tender tongue in a tangy green sauce), covered with crumbled cotija cheese. $24 took care of the bill and the tip. Clemente Orozco 339 (also 333 next door, but it’s more for dinner), Guadalajara, Phone 3-825-7869.

On our last night in town, we were carousing out-and-about quite late at night. Chris had heard about a section of restaurants that served “Old Guadalajara” food to the neighborhood, and we drove around for some time, determined to find it.

It turned out to be right near a handsome ancient sanctuary, hence its name, La Morenita del Santuario. At this fluorescent-lit white tiled plain-Jane eatery they specialize in Tortas Ahogadas, a local (Guadalajara) specialty I was determined I would try before we left. Basically it’s a French Dip that gets soggy sitting in a tomato-based broth. This certainly is a knife and fork issue for me, although the average Tapatio seems to like it dribbling down his chin. We tried one full roll stuffed with Sausage and another with Tongue. Not bad, but nothing to rave about. Plus, I really dislike eating sloppy things, anyway. The Pozole Mixto here had four meats, shredded but arranged in a neat row one edge. The Enchiladas con Carne had a nice toasty taste, and the four rolls were consumed with gusto … but little fanfare. The best of all the dishes, perhaps, was the simplest. Pollo a la Morenita was a roasted chicken in a thin but piquant sauce, served with oven-roasted potatoes and a bit of a salad — the kind of thing you’d expect to see on a neighborhood table being served up by a harried housewife. The Flan for dessert was so close to La Rin Conada’s I had to put the photos side-by-side to see any difference (there wasn’t much, either looks-wise or taste-wise). The four of us walked out paying only $26, including the tip. Pedro Loza #520, Guadalajara, 3-658-0466.

In our travels we get to run across so many interesting people. We are writing about two gentlemen here that we would like to share with our readers.

The Art of McWillie Chambers

Former Kansas City Art Institute graduate, McWillie Chambers has made a fabulous career since leaving Kansas City. His paintings are now shown in dozens of galleries around the country. Thru paintings, monotypes and woodcuts, he portrays the male art form in a very distinctive different way than most any other artist. Many art critics say that he captures the "French Impressionist tradition" in his works. In addition to his to work with the male body, McWillie also creates utterly fabulous creations with a marine motif. His paintings of ships are so wonderfully executed and are some of the finest that we have ever seen.

He has had many one person exhibitions as well as group exhibitions all over the country.

The artist David Saunders said of McWillie's works, "Through Chambers' paintings, I can vicariously enjoy the experience of the artist's own spiritual 'oneness' with life's virile bounty. The Chinese invented this artform and DeKooning mastered it within the tradition of Abstraction, but McWillie Chambers has found a new way, from within the tradition of European painting to make the experience of his own non-rational love of life accessible to me in an ostensibly representational painting."

After viewing an exhibition of Chambers, one walks away with a sense that this artist is really on to "something" that the rest of us only can imagine. Although his male figures are either scantly clad or nude, one never senses the thought that they are pornography or lewd but rather just simply a "matter of fact". Chambers paints what he sees and that's it! which is so rare in artists of today. His paintings of ships are yet another thing. We particularly are drawn to these. From the Titanic to the Queen of Bermuda to his S.V. Elissa, his ship paintings are utterly magnificent. They really are truly Masterpieces!

It's always good to see great artist's works but especially artists who had their roots in the Kansas City area at the Kansas City Art Institute. If you are needing to add something to your art collection, we highly suggest purchasing one of his works. We have several of his works on file and if anyone wants to email us, we will be more than glad to share them with you.

McWillie now divides his time with a residence/studio in New York City (Manhattan) as well as in upstate in Hudson, New York. He has been written up in the New York Times as well as in ART IN AMERICA and several other publications.

He is represented by John Davis Gallery, 362 1/2 Warren Street, Hudson, New York, 12534. Telephone: (518) 828-5907. Their website is: www.johndavisgallery.com.

Superstar in a Housedress

We have run across one of the most interesting and touching biographies that we have seen in years! SUPERSTAR In a Housedress is a biography of the late Jackie Curtis of New York City. It is both a book and a DVD. Buy the book and the DVD comes with it. Everyone should order one and you can order so easily at amazon.com. It was published by
Craig B. Highberger the writer/director was a close friend of the late Jackie Curtis and he has produced a very touching biography/documentary. The critics LOVE it! "Bright and entertaining" writes Stephen Holden of the New York Times. "Bitchy, catty, moving and hilarious" writes the New York Magazine.

Jackie Curtis was a poet, a playwright, and an Andy Warhol Superstar. He lived and performed... sometimes as a man, sometimes as a woman, but ALWAYS performed! We think that the Village Voice summed it up best when they wrote, "A fabulously fond and entertaining tribute."

Ray & The Countess

The DVD has so many wonderful and delightful interviews with such noted personalities as actor Paul Ambrose; Penny Arcade the performance artist; Harvey Fierstein; Joe Franklin, the TV legend; Silvia Miles, actress; the extra-ordinary photographer, Jack Mitchell; Michael Musto, entertainment journalist; Holly Woodland, superstar herself; Lily Tomlin; and our very dear friend, the Countess Alexis Del Lago, artist and STAR ! who now resides in West Hollywood. We always see her when we are in California. She is indeed the last of a dying breed of ELEGANT personalities.

Director/writer Craig Highberger has touched on so many wonderful aspects of Jackie's life and the many interesting people around him. Craig was a close friend of Jackie's from 1972 until Jackie's death in 1985. This biography is certainly a true labor of love and it shows. Craig and his partner Andy of over 30 years lives in Ohio. Craig is coming out with a new biography on the life of photographer Jack Mitchell. We can't wait to see that one.

If you want to read and see a DVD about a very interesting and colorful character then run out and buy SUPERSTAR In a Housedress. You can check out the biography at http://www.jackiecurtis.com/ and Craig's new project on Jack Mitchell at http://www.jackmitchellmovie.com/ Congratulations to Craig on not only one but TWO great biographies.

For more infomation on traveling, email Donald and Ray at gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their web page at: http://www.hometown.aol.com/gaytravelers.

Gaytravelers@aol.com is written by Donald Pile and Ray Williams, a gay couple of over 34 years of "togetherness" who live in the greater Kansas City area. They are also Antique Dealers and have toured the entire United States traveling in search of antiques and for fabulous "gay meccas" of which they have found several.

On their 25th Anniversary, Elizabeth Taylor wrote, "Congratulations to the two of you on your 25th Anniversary! You have surely reached an important milestone in your lives together, and I send you my best wishes as you celebrate tonight". Candice Gingrich wrote, "Your enduring relationship is another shining example of what "family values" is and should be about... trust, security, love commitment. Continued success in your togetherness".

Don and Ray write articles for several gay and lesbian newspapers and magazines. You can email us at: gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their web page at: www.hometown.aol.com/gaytravelers.