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Paris & Its Gay Village
Written by Paul, Marais Flat
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Perhaps Paris may best be described as the capital of hedonism, City of Light or better even City of Delight.    Its gay scene can be characterised as colourful and heavily into promoting sexual consumption “sur place”, judging by the abundance of backrooms of recent clubs, bars, saunas and gyms.  But in Paris things are best done under a cover of ‘charm’.  Where else in the world do you find gay establishments on a street called “des Mauvais Garçons” (=the ‘bad boys’ street, named after its 16^th century turbulent inhabitants)” or on a street that used to be called “Tire-Boudin”? (roughly translated as “Sausage pulling” because of the prostitutes who worked here in the Middle Ages, and has since been given the more dignified name “rue Marie Stuart” after a former Queen of France who is better know as the tragic Queen of Scots).

Maybe, just maybe, Paris competes with London as the only other European city that offers such a large choice of gay venues.  The centre of Parisian gay life is the Marais district, once a swamp until in the 13^th century monks and the Knights’ Templar started settling here. It is a gorgeous old neighbourhood that's also home to the city's Jewish community. Now it has become an expensive, fashionable residential area, as seems to happen around the world whenever the gay set moves in. Clustered here are the city's hottest bars along with many gay restaurants and shops, in particular on the streets: rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, rue des Archives and rue Vieille du Temple (all in the 4^th district).  Adjacent to the West are two other popular extensions of the gay Marais neighbourhood: Les Halles  and Montorgueil.  Gay life is, however, not limited to the Marais.  Traditionally the harder, leather scene has been nearer to the Bastille (rue Keller) while in more recent years also many gays tend to go out in the more popular areas of the 11^th district (e.g. canal St. Martin, rue St. Maur) where many places may be a mix of straight/gay.  Out of the hundreds of gay sports associations, restaurants, bars, video arcades, saunas, dance and sex clubs, many are spread all over Paris. 

As a starting point for a tour of “Gay Paree”, the Open Café on the corner of rue St Croix Bretonnerie and rue des Archives, has almost become an institution as the axis of the Marais life.  Across the street you find several very popular café terraces.  Around the corner is the Raidd, the ‘in’ bar now because of its sexy shows (say, equivalent of Splash in New York) while the Cox remains a popular happy hour bar.  To mention just two of the many naughty sex clubs: Le Dépôt and Impact are both located on the border between the Marais and Montorgueil areas.  For restaurants you needn’t limit yourself to the gay ones since many simple café bistros or sophisticated brasseries abound, especially if you wander away from the major streets.

One thing that most gay visitors immediately notice about the Paris scene, is that it's largely dominated by a crowd of trendy young, buffed bunnies, typically many with shaven heads (crân rasé).  Most of our foreign visitors are surprised by this concentration of gays in the centre of town.  This Marais Gay Village has developed really during the last twenty years.  Gay life in the 1960s and ‘70s used to be mainly around rue St Anne in the 1^st district and on the Left Bank. These discreet, hidden clubs, where one had to ring at the door to enter, have virtually all been closed now.  Then in the 1980s a bit more flamboyant, small clubs started around Les Halles (rue de la Verrerie, rue des Lombard).  Today the entire heart of the Marais area has been taken over by gay businesses that flaunt rainbow flags and have transparent windows on the street side.  Trendy activity has even spread lately beyond the historic Marais to the nearby Montorgueil pedestrian area.  Those who can afford to live in these fashionable areas, are often characterised as the “bo-bo's" (bourgeois-bohemian). 

Wandering through Paris and Le Marais

Experienced visitors to Paris tell you that the best way to enjoy its charms is by strolling through parts of the city. On your promenade, stop regularly to sip on a real petit café and a croissant - this most typical experience of Parisian life.  Although international food and coffee chains have opened up around Paris (including more McDonalds and Starbucks), typical traditional cafés and bistros or brasseries are still found on virtually every street.  Many trendy shops are now to be found in the many covered passageways that have been restored to their early 19^th century glory. Readers of the bestseller The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown may be tempted to search for the various historic sites mentioned in the novel, starting with the pyramid courtyard of the Louvre.

Strolling about is the best way to discover the secrets of the French capital arrondissement by arrondissement (=districts) and enjoy it like a local, by looking at:

• The many house façades steeped with history;
• Parisians relaxing at street cafés or rushing around;
• Recognisable brown coloured signs (sort of metal spatulas, designed by Philippe Starck) which explain interesting historical facts about the area, a street or a specific building.

Behind many a wooden gateway of the 17^th and 18^th century houses, you will be surprised by a charming courtyard, where you can still make out where the horse-drawn carriages used to be parked but now a pretty green garden has been planted for the co-owners.  These important elements of the medieval city life could once be found scattered throughout the districts around the Louvre, before changes to the city forced most to disappear. Today you can still find beautiful examples mainly in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8^th district) and Le Marais (4^th district).  

 “Le Marais” developed in the 17^th century when leading aristocrats built their Palaces or Hôtels Particuliers.  Before that Le Marais was a vast field with flat ground and rectilinear streets, affording the space and wherewithal to build these magnificent private homes. Like contemporary gays, ancient aristos knew a good real estate deal when they saw one. Rich farming land in la Douce France formed the basis of most noblemen’s fortunes and provided the sites for the stately châteaux that were their permanent homes.  But when country life proved boring, and when the King did not require them to pay court at the Palace at Versailles, those who could afford it would build their own “small” city palaces. Though many of these Town Houses have now been divided into dozens of condos, their splendid facades are still a pleasure to view while meandering through the narrow streets.

Some of the best examples of these “Hôtel Particuliers” are those preserved by the state for use as museums, such as the Picasso Museum in Hôtel Aubert de Fontenay (Salé), the Historical Library housed in Hôtel Lamoignon; the Parisian history museum in Hôtel Carnavalet; or the Archives Museum contained in the combined former mansions of Soubise and Guénégaud. Some stunning “Hôtels” in Le Marais have remained privately owned properties such as Hôtel Libéral Bruand and Hôtel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande.

Right or Left Bank?

Our main focus has been on the Right Bank of Paris.  By crossing the river Seine which bisects the city, you can visit the famous Left Bank, or Rive Gauche, and can live the imaginary life of a writer like Sartre in 1950s Paris- observing diners at Les Deux Magots and Cafe Flore or sitting on a bench in the Luxembourg Gardens or the park behind St. Julien le Pauvre, the oldest church of Paris where gospel or classical music concerts are often held.  This is also the Paris of the students’ Quartier Latin, boulevard St. Michel, the very bourgeois 7^th district and the rather boring residential 15^th district, home of the iconic Eiffel Tower.

The Left Bank is now regarded as a “has-been” area whose glory days are in the past.  Today most agree that the more dynamic side of Paris is to be found on the Right Bank, Rive Droite, as demonstrated by the opening up of numerous galleries, fashion boutiques and design shops, as well as by the renovation and construction works constantly in progress there.  For example, an ambitious project has just been approved to redesign and reconstruct the Forum des Halles to enable it to play better its multiple roles in the very city centre, combining a huge subway hub with several cultural centres and the largest shopping mall of Paris. This Rive Droite further includes the medieval Paris, with the world famous art museum located in the former Royal Palace of the Louvre, the elegant shops to be found along the Champs-Elysées (in particular on nearby avenue Montaigne), the Arc de Triomphe and of course the beautiful historical Marais area.

A Dynamic City of Love: the N° 1 Tourist Destination

Paris combines culture, romance, history, dynamic life and an increasingly outward, tolerant looking younger generation.  This "do-as-you-please” mentality has been a gradual change during the last decade. The election of the openly gay mayor, Bertrand Delanoe, has been one of the symptoms of this shift in mind-set.  Diversity is Paris’s main strength and can be witnessed by the recent wave of avant-garde galleries and boutiques.  It is no longer just the Impressionists’ paintings in the Musée Quai d’Orsay or the Mona Lisa in the Louvre Museum one comes to see.  It is very much being part of the alternative quintessential European way of life. 

Paris is western and capitalist for sure, but a different emphasis on quality of life is noticeable.  In this way, Paris has probably the greatest number of good and affordable bistros and restaurants of any city.  With its image as the most beautiful city in the world, Paris symbolizes Old World values in the context of a very modern city. Also its reachability by high-speed trains has helped the popularity of Paris. Less than three hours to the heart of London, one and a half hour to Brussels and only four to Amsterdam!  High-speed trains link Paris with Marseille and many other sunny southern French cities.

Parisians can be very pleasant and charming if treated with a reasonable level of courtesy à la française.  It helps if you adopt the basics of the French “savoir vivre”. Always start, whether it is a Parisian taxi driver, sales person, waiter, with a greeting of “bonjour” or “bonsoir” before asking a question.  If you respect this basic etiquette, Parisians become smiling and helpful and many will be happy to take the time to point you in the right direction.  Try a word or two of French before speaking to anyone in English. It works wonders.  How would people in the US or UK respond to a stranger accosting them in a foreign tongue? 

Nowadays it is easy to challenge the stereotype of Parisians as snobbish and xenophobic. Most tourists I meet are struck by how friendly the French have become, and how well they now speak English, especially the younger ones.  Today’s taxi drivers even take city sponsored courses in how to treat tourists correctly! 

In addition politicians of all persuasions contribute to the improvement of life in the French capital.  Under the socialist-ecologist administration led by the gay mayor, the city has drastically reduced car traffic and parking spaces, making touring by foot a much less hazardous experience.  This mayor became famous for starting the highly successful “Paris Plage”, for one month during height of the summer the auto route along the Seine is closed for traffic and turned into an artificial beach including sans, showers and palm trees.  Bicycles are the upcoming means of transportation.  Recently the conservative national government is cracking down on crime and initiating policies with emphasis on security and anti-prostitution regulations.   Even the previously omnipresent dog droppings are disappearing since the police are now fining dog owners who fail to clean up after their pets.

In 2004, in number terms, the entire population of the UK visited the French capital.  Even in the midst of the Iraq War controversy, the number of U.S. travellers continued to increase, as do those of Chinese and Japanese tourists.  If you are looking for either heavy clubbing, musicals, or financial summits, London is the place for you in Europe. If you want to be overwhelmed by ancient historical beauty and don’t care for gay nightlife, Rome may be the place to be.  But Paris remains by far the most visited city in the world! In French, C’est la vie rimes with C’est Paris.

Practical tips 

Some favourite viewpoints:

• In summertime: stand on Pont Neuf or take a boat-bus to admire illuminated building along the Seine
• Take a rowing boat on the lake of Bois de Boulogne and having lunch at very chique Pré catalan afterwards if you have got money to spare
• Standing in the middle of Cour Carré, the oldest part of the Louvre Palace, on your way to have a  light lunch at  Café Marly and afterwards coffee at the Ritz Place Vendôme accompanied by Harpe music
• Overview of the city from top floor terrace of the Samaritaine Department store, before doing your shopping

Museums in and around Le Marais

Paris has 164 museums (almost as many as London and New York combined!), but walking from the Marais, I make the following selection:

Louvre

This former royal palace is the largest museum in Europe, open 9:30am - 6:00pm; closed Tuesdays. The foundations of the old Louvre, visible in basement, date back to the Middle Ages. Spectacular newly opened Egyptian galleries. Try to avoid the main entrance but rather take the one on the rue de Rivoli, which is always less busy. 

Carnavalet  history of Paris

23 rue de Sévigné 75003  Metro Saint-Paul

Picasso  in Hôtel Salé

5 rue de Thorigny 75003   Métro Chemin Vert; open 9:30am-5:30pm, closed Tuesday

Jewish Art and history in Hôtel de Saint-Aignan

 71 rue du Temple 75003  Métro Rambuteau, especially the building itself is a fabulous 17^th century palace.

Arts et Métiers  60 rue de Réaumur 75003  Metro Arts et Métiers
Science and technology meet medieval architecture in a monastery.

Conciergerie 1 quai de l’Horloge, 75001  Metro Cité

Marie Antoinette & Louis XVI where imprisoned here during the 1789 revolution in this only intact medieval castle of Paris

Archives in Hotel de Soubise - 60 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 (closed Tuesday).
Museum of French History, the marvellous courtyard is worth the visit

Centre Pompidou (or Beaubourg as French call it) ,  75003  Metro Rambuteau
Largest French Modern Art centre, covers 20^th century art, architecture and design. Views over the city can be enjoyed from the top.(Closed Tuesday), You can have lunch at the stylish, trendy restaurant called George.

Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzevir, 75003
This small and newly restored 17^th century building reflects 18^th century upper class life.

Victor Hugo’s house,  the author of Les Misérables, lived on the place des Vosges, a most beautiful  16^th century square.  Try to find a secret passage that links to the fabulous Hotel Sully gardens.

Cluny abbey,  Metro Cluny
See Paris from the Roman times until the 14^th century, a visit to the old roman baths (Closed Tuesday)

Orsay, open 10-6, Tuesday-Saturday, Métro Solferino.   In this 19^th century former railway station, you will find 19^th century masterpieces from Camille Claudel sculptures to Van Gogh paintings.

Theatre/ festivals: Like at London’s Leicester Square or Times Square in NYC, you can buy today's theatre tickets at half price if you go to the Kiosque at Place de la Madeleine, Métro Madeleine, after noon.  At any time during the year, cultural events take place such as quartier d'été festival (in Tuileries and Palais Royal gardens for example), open air cinemas in August, the gay and lesbian film festival at Les Halles. 

Opera/concerts:

Paris also has three operas houses: the classical Garnier (now mainly ballet), modern Bastille (mainly opera) and Le Châtelet (mix). One can obtain book on line on www.opera-de-paris.fr, by mail or at Opera itself by getting in line at 10 am for last minute availabilities (inexpensive).  Many classical concerts are organised in Paris' beautiful churches such as Notre Dame or Saint Eustache. There is always a free concert on Saturday night in St Merri Church, next to the Pompidou. It's a great experience to do at least once.

Transport

Driving and parking in Paris is a challenge if you are not from a Mediterranean city.  That's why a majority of the Parisians use the efficient and cheap public transportation.  Also one can rent bikes.

Taxis:  Paris Cabs are reasonably cheap.  However, be it will be virtually impossible to flag a taxi down on the street on a Friday or Saturday night, in particular until 3 AM, around the time of the last subways.   

Subway: Paris has the biggest and probably the best Métro system in the world with over 500 stations! The Métro is cheap, convenient and runs until 00.45 hrs. The best deal is to buy a carnet of 10 tickets.  

Buses are an excellent service and one of the best ways to see Paris. You can use Métro tickets to take them: for same price as metro you get to sight see Paris!  Ask for a combined bus-museum pass.

Shopping:
Diversity is the competitive advantage here.  Many small, innovative shops as well as luxury goods (both fashion to wear and specialty staples to eat).

Cinema: The best of all is the UGC Cite Ciné in Les Halles, near the church of St Eustache: more than 20 screens with the terrific sound systems and wide screens. Most films are shown in their original language version ("vo") but with French subtitles.  The MK2 cinema at la Bibliothèque Mitterand has a charming feature of one seat for 2 people to share while MK2 at Beaubourg-Pompidou often shows gay movies.

Cash & Tipping

You do not have to tip for services or in restaurants. If your waiter is nice and helpful it is customary though to leave a little extra but it is not compulsory.  France is the number one country in the world for the number of cash-points per capita! ATM's are everywhere (look for bank signs such as SG, BNP) and it's the most flexible and reliable way to obtain cash in Euros. There is no need to change money before you leave home. Almost every shop accepts payment by Visa or Amex

Safety-wise

Paris is unlike many other major cities in the world. Despite an increase in crime levels of some suburbs, crime in the historical centre of Paris is very low. Due to strong gun and weapons control laws, crime in the city is virtually non-violent.  Of course, like everywhere, you should always be careful and sensible, especially in the metro (possible pickpockets). Walking at night or day in this neighbourhood is probably the most peaceful thing to do.

Smoking

Although a third of adult Frenchmen still smoke, the non-smoking campaign is catching on in France like wildfire. Virtually every restaurant has a non-smoking area but often the separation is only hypothetical. Info.  Only few cafés, hotels or restaurants have declared themselves to be smoke-free on a voluntary basis. See: www.droit-air-pur.com/nosmokingrestaurants.htm

Guides

The best papers to find out what's on and where to go are definitely Pariscope, found at any bookshop with its English section Time Out Paris.  Try Zurban, the new weekly city magazine (in French).  To go out in the gay scene, pick up the free papers E-male or Illico where you'll find a lot of addresses and info on theme-parties. Many businesses in Marais will have these free publications. See also: www.citegay.fr

Paris Tourist Office: new headquarters between the Louvre and the Opera Garnier. Tourist Info: 9-20h (or low season: 11-18h)  25, rue de Pyramides 1st district, 01 49 52 53 00, summer kiosk next to Pompidou Centre.

For more info you can contact:

Paul
www.maraisflat.com