Section 1: Editors' Notes Section 4: Inns for Sale
Section 2: Purple Roofs Travels Section 5: Late Availability
Section 3: Travelers Columns

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Section 1: EDITOR'S NOTES

Welcome to the February 2005 newsletter!

In early December, we visited Maui for the first time, and enjoyed the Valley Isle. In this issue, we'll bring you the second half of our trip, including South Maui and Western Maui (Kihei, Wailea, Lahaina, etc.).

This month we also have another great article from Don & Ray on Palm Springs - thanks, guys!

Innkeepers - write us an article about your area, and we'll include it in a future issue of this newsletter with credit and links to your website and email addresses. Contact wheretostay@purpleroofs.com for more details.

Late Availability/Special Offer Accommodation Notices

As always, we also have our Late Availability & Special Offer notices (148 offers in 20 countries/regions) all at http://www.purpleroofs.com/lateavailability.html, or just check your favorite destination page - these notices are also right there on the regular listings.

Innkeepers - Add Five Pictures to Your Listing With Us - Just $50 for 15 Months

We have our picture listings on sale this month for just $50 - save over 40%, and give our visitors a look at your little piece of paradise. Go to:

http://www.purpleroofs.com/pl.html

Seen Our Real Estate and Wedding Sections Lately?

We've been beefing up our realtor, mortgage lender, and wedding vendor listings over the last several months, and now have over 770 real estate professional listings in 46 US states and Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. And we have over 380 Wedding Vendor listings in 38 US states, Canada, the Caribbean, Central America, and Europe.

Check out our real estate professional listings here: http://www.gayrealtynetwork.com
Check out our wedding vendor listings here: http://www.purpleunions.com

That's it for this issue - see y'all next time! :)

Mark & Scott, PURPLE ROOFS


Section 2: PURPLE ROOFS TRAVELS

Maui, Hawaii - The Valley Isle
Part Two: South and Western Maui

click on the map below, or just scroll down

Last month we chronicled the first half of our trip to Maui in December 2004. In this issue, we'll cover South Maui and West Maui below, including accommodations we visited and stayed at, restaurants we ate at, and the many activities and sights we took in while on-island.

Thanks to Roxanne and Keli'i at the Maui Visitors Bureau (http://www.visitmaui.com) for helping to set up many of the activites for us on-island.

Click On Any Picture To See More

Just below the central valley, hugging the coastline, is the South Shore - Kihei to the north, and Wailea to the south.

Kihei is a beach town. The city higs the coast, its two main drags running parallel to the water. Kihei is filled with motels and small boutique hotels, along with apartments and a few small shopping centers. This town is all about the beach, and everywhere in Kihei is either across from the water or just a short walk to it.

Kihei also boasts one of the two Hilo Hattie stores on the island, a must-stop for every visitor, if only for those inexpensive but oh-so-comfortable sandals they sell and the obligatory Macadamia nuts. There's also a Safeway here to provision your snack bar with back at your room, several starbucks, and a wide variety of places to eat.

Just to the south, Wailea is about one thing - luxury. One of two main resorts on-island (the other is on the west side), Wailea has the Four Seasons, the Grand Wailea, and a beautiful shopping center. Wailea also has some of the most expensive housing costs on Maui - while we were here, they were offering an ocean-view condo for $20,000,000 (yes, million). The area is well watered and lushly tropical, in sharp contrast to the dry hills above. The South Shore gets its abundance of water through an underground pipe from the northern part of the island.

Maui Sunseeker (& Wailana Inn)

551 South Kihei Rd., 808-879-1261, 800-532-6284
http://www.mauisunseeker.com
http://www.wailanainn.com
http://www.halelehua.com
info@mauisunseeker.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

Several years ago, Russell and David purchased the Maui Sunseeker, formerly owned by Jon and Susan of Cliff's Edge. They renovated the inn, upgrading each of the rooms with new flooring, paint, bedding and decorations. Then last year, they partnered with Michael and Llevellyn to purchase the gay-owned Wailana Inn, which sits just behind the Sunseeker.

Now they've torn down the fence that separated the two properties, and are working to merge them into a single resort property.

The new combined resort sits in the northern part of Kihei, right across from the beach. The rooms in the Sunseeker property are all on the ground floor, and face out over the ocean. The Wailana Inn rooms are on two levels - those on the top floor have gorgeous ocean views, while the bottom floor rooms look out onto the courtyard. The Sunseeker's clientele is about 50% gay/lesbian and 50% straight; the Wailana Inn is about 90% gay/lesbian, 10% straight.

Llevellyn was just installing a beautiful rainbow flag in front of the property when we arrived, and it didn't take long for a gay couple to see it and stop by - the owners debated a bit about being so visible in the community, but we're guessing it will bring a lot of positive attention to their place from gay and lesbian travelers.

The resort is a short 15 minute drive from the airport, and is a great place to use as a home base while exploring the island. You're just 5-10 minuets from Wailea, 20-30 minutes from Lahaina, and 15-20 minutes from Kahului and Wailuku. The beach is literally right across the street, and as we mentioned above, there are a bunch of great restaurants within a short drive.

The rooms themselves are spacious - ask for a suite if you want a whole lotta room. The rooms in the Sunseeker portion at the front of the property have floors that are mostly ceramic tile (new) and walls painted a soothing Celadon green (David's favorite color, we understand). Each room has a kitchen or kitchenette, with refrigerator, sink, and cabinets - some rooms also have a dishwasher and/or a full oven/stove.

The California King bed was very comfortable - and while the resort is on Kihei Road, so you will get some traffic noise, it's nice to keep the windows open at night to hear the sound of the waves. There are two 1 bedroom suites and two junior suites in the Sunseeker part of the property.

The front of the Sunseeker has slate-covered lanais facing the ocean and a manicured, open lawn landscaped with beautiful tropical foliage - this is a great place to see some fantastic sunsets (and we have the pictures to prove it).

The Sunseeker also houses Gypsies Salon (Russell is a hair stylist) and Apo-a-lewa Weddings (he's also an ordained minister), and the guys can provide a full range of wedding services, specializing in gay and lesbian unions. Gay marriage isn't legal in Hawaii, but you can have a wonderful ceremony to celebrate your connection to one another, and Russell can make it the most wonderful day of your lives.

In between the Sunseeker and the Wailana Inn, there's a courtyard that was once separated in two by a fence. The guys have torn down this fence, and were in the midst of landscaping the space between the two properties while we were there. There's a nice rock waterfall there running down to a pool filled with Koi - and long range plans include putting in a pool back there (probably in 2005), to give the property even more of a resort feel.

We can't wait to see how this comes together - this is going to be a fantastic resort getaway for gay and lesbian travelers.

The Wailana Inn had a reputation as more of a party place when the new owners took it over - the rooms were not in great condition, and the property itself was in great need of a makeover.

Russell, David, Michael and Llevellyn have been working at this with a vengeance, and their efforts are really starting to pay off.

The rooms here have been redecorated in a similar fashion to the Sunseeker's rooms, giving the whole property a more cohesvive feel. And the bathrooms in the Wailana, with their slate-covered walls, are simply gorgeous.

The Wailana rooms also feature Cal King Beds, and some have stunning Pacific Ocean views from the second story. There are six hotel rooms and six junior suites in the Wailana side.

The resort also features a Clothing Optional private sundeck with jacuzzi, and BBQ grill. It's a great place to meet other guys who are staying at the hotel, and to get a little well-deserved Hawaiian R&R.

This is the largest gay and lesbian property you'll find on the island. It's extremely clean, well-maintained, with a great location and a very friendly staff, and with the changes coming in 2005, we expect the nerw Maui Sunseeker will only get better.

A quick update on the property (January 11th 2005) from the Sunseeker guys:

"The gardens in between the buildings have just been completed.  They are beautiful.  The gingers, bird of paradise and the lilies are all blooming.  Just wonderful.  And the garden in front of the Wailana building right at the street is quite spectacular.  We love it a lot and are getting many positive comments from the community.

We have also had the whole property re-keyed with a new master key system.  Now guests only have to keep up with one key.  It opens their room along with all the perimeter gates.

We have the plans drawn for reworking our back patio area behind the office along with the office itself.  If all goes well, it will be completed within 90 days.  We will have an enclosed guest coin laundry area and consolidation room of our maintenance, hotel laundry and cleaning supplies.  Guess that is back office and not noticeable to guests, but it will make us a lot more productive in servicing our guests.  The office is being reconfigured for multiple work spaces along with a prominent office entrance from the garden.  Our hope is this area will then become a destination on the property in preparation for the pool sometime later this year."

Dreams Come True on Maui

Wailea, 808-879-7099, 877-STAYMAUI
http://www.maui.net/~tcroly/
mauidreams@maui.net

The first of two properties we visited in Wailea, Dreams Come True is owned by Tom and Denise, a very friendly straight couple, and sits above most of Wailea in a quiet residential neighborhood. The property is a beautifully landscaped half acre, with Mango, Papaya and Banana Trees and a quiet screened-in gazebo with a waterfall and several birds to provide a tropical atmosphere.

It features both a private cottage rental (at the base of the driveway, complete with ocean view and a wide private deck) and two b&b rooms in the main house. One of the B&B rooms has a screened in deck, and also a kitchenette. The property also features an outdoor shower, and an outdoor kitchen and barbeque that sit on a wide deck in front of the main house overlooking the ocean. There's a big-screen TV for guest use in the common room. This is a great choice for folks who want to stay in Wailea and enjoy the great year-round weather of the south shore - close to Little Beach, Maui's premier nude beach.

Two Mermaids

Wailea, 808--874-8687; 800-598-9550
http://www.twomermaids.com
twomermaids@maui.net

The other property we visited while in Wailea was Two Mermaids - the only lesbian-owned property we visited on Maui. This B&B is just down the hill from Dreams Come True, and features a terrific pool in the private back yard. Judee and Miranda are life partners, and were first married in British Columbia, Canada. Altho we didn't get to meet Judee, Miranda was a wonderful host.

The property has several different rooms and rental configurations - larger groups can rent out a joined space, or couples can rent a smaller configuration. Judee and Miranda welcome kids, and one of their rooms has a nautical theme that children will really enjoy. The owners are still relatively new to the property, and have extensive plans to continue to add to and upgrade the b&b over the next several years. This is a great place for folks who want a comfortable, homey atmosphere close to all of South Shore's sights.

Sarentos On The Beach

2980 South Kihei, 808-875-7555

This was our favorite place to eat on the South Shore. The beach views are terrific, and the food was excellent. The meal was a bit pricey (almost $100 for two, not including any alcoholic beverages) but this one's a great choice for a romantic dinner on the beach while you're on-island. A minor quibble - several friends commented, and we also noticed, that they tend to hover over you here. We timed it, and the longest it took for an empty sugar packet to be removed from the table was 45 seconds. The service is great, but they might want to try to back off just a little. But don't let that stop you - Sarentos is an excellent choice.

Polo Beach Grill & Bar

Fairmont Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-875-4100

The Fairmont Hotel, while fairly new, was built to look like a classic Hollywood Hotel. The grounds are fantastic, and the Polo Beach Grill sits above them with great poolside and ocean views. The food is overpriced (though not bad) - typical resort fare. But it's a great place for people watching, and the resort atmosphere is hard to beat.

Marco's Grill & Deli

1445 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808-874-4041

We had breakfast at Marco's - it's right on Kihei Road, and is in a gorgeous Itallian style building, but there's no real view here. The food was fair but overpriced, and the service so-so.

Sansei Restaurant

Kihei Town Center, Kihei, 808-669-6286

The folks at the Maui Visitor's Center suggested dinner here, and we're glad they did. The decor is stylish and fun, and the food was very good. Service was excellent, and although we didn't have sushi (not one of our favorites), we hear the sushi dishes are among the most inventive and well-done on Maui. There's also Karaoke on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at the Kihei location. If you're in Kapalua, try the Sansei's there. A great choice for a reasonably priced, flavorful dinner.

The Shops at Wailea

3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, 808-891-6770
http://www.shopsatwailea.com
info@shopsatwailea.com

One of the nicest shopping centers on Maui is the Shops at Wailea. Built around a beautiful central courtyard and fountain, the Shops at Wailea features the kind of stores you'd expect on Fifth Avenue in New York or in downtown Beverly Hills, with a bit of an Island Flavor. You probably won't find much to buy here unless you have a rather large pocketbook - but hey, it's fun to look.

Click On Any Picture To See More

West Maui starts at the mountains above Wailuku (technically, the Iao Valley is in West Maui, but since the only access is from the Central Valley, we included it there). The ancient heart of West Maui was Lele, at one time the Royal Capital of the islands. Lele was the site of a great fishpond called the Mokulua, and was where the royal family lived. When the Europeans came, the diseases they brought with them decimated the local population, and the fish ponds were covered over in an effort to eradicate the mosquitoes in the area. Lahaina (Cruel Sun) grew up in the area where Lele had once flourished, and is now a tourist mecca on the west shore. For more on the area's history, see the Maui Nei tour section below.

Lahaina has a certain charm that comes from its colonial roots - it's still a small town, but with many places to shop and eat, and a number of shows and other activities for visitors to enjoy.

One of the great natural wonders on Maui is also here - the huge, multi-trunked banyan tree that sits in front of the Lahaina Harbor - come here on the right day, and you may find vendors selling a variety of Hawaiiana.

It takes about 20-25 minutes to get to Lahaina from Kihei, and the drive is mostly along the oceanside.

You'll see Lana'i Island across the water, as well as some beautiful mountain vistas and maybe even a cruise ship coming into Lahaina - there's no landing here big enough for these ships, so visitors are ferried ashore in small boats.

Just north of Maui are Kaanapali and Kapalua, which together make up the other major resort area on Maui. Kaanapali has some of the tallest buildings on Maui, and a great shopping center as well.

Kapalua has some beautiful (and expensive) resorts, as well as the homes of many wealthy and famous folks, including Kelsey Grammer (Frasier). It also has a Hawaiian burial ground and an intricate lava flow called the Dragon's Teeth - more on all of these below.


Lahaina Inn

127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 808-661-0577
http://lahainainn.com/
inntown@lahainainn.com

This plantation town style inn boasts one of the best lodging locations in Lahaina - right in the middle of town, right across the street from the Ocean. With 10 rooms and two suites, all with bath ensuite, this is a charming old-world inn, furnished with beautiful antiques. Each room has a deck that looks out on the ocean (the ocean is to your right, so you do have to look over the pther decks unless you get the end room) and the people watching a floor below is fantastic. All rooms also have A/C, important in the land of the "cruel sun".

The inn is run by Debbie and Toni, two sisters - Debbie has been in Maui since April, and Toni has been there for 20 years. Both are very friendly, and will welcome you with open arms - they love their gay clientele. You're walking distance to all of Lahaina - this is a great place to stay if you want to be close to everything in town.

Garden Gate B&B

67 Kaniau Rd., Lahaina, 808-661-8800, 800-939-3217
http://www.gardengatebb.com/
info@gardengatebb.com

Appearances can be deceiving. Garden Gate B&B is in a quiet, unassuming neighborhood just north of downtown Lahaina, and the house itself is rather plain from the front. But walk through the front gate into the hidden courtyard, and the place is transformed into a tropical wonderland. The long courtyard is filled with tropical plants, and is lit at night with beautiful white lights.

The two newest rooms are on the top floor, with great ocean views and an expansive feel. The rooms have oversized closets, a small refrigerator, A/C, and luxurious bathrooms. These two units share a wide deck. Breakfast is served in the courtyard, and consists of fresh juices, fruits, and coffee, and the innkeepers are happy to spend time with you chatting about island life in general and Lahaina in particular. A great choice for fokks who want to be near Lahaina, but want a bit of privacy.

BJ's Chicago Pizzeria

730 Front St., Lahaina, 808-661-0700

Great food, reasonable prices, great view - what more can we say? Plenty, apparently. Located on the second story just across from the Seawall, BJ's is right in the middle of Lahaina, and has fantastic views of the waterfront and the ocean. The decor is great too - there's a beautiful mural along one wall, and the place is fun and inviting. And the deep dish pizza is one of the best (if not the best) on the island. We ate here twice - and got out for about $30 total for the two of us each time. Great for lunch or an easy dinner.

Pacific 'O, I'O, Feast of Lele

505 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-667-4341

Three restaurants in one. Pacific 'O and I'O are right across from each other, and are owned by the same folks. We ate at Pacific 'O for lunch, and the food was great, but prices are a bit steep - lunch was $61 for two of us (no alcohol) - for dinner, add $20-20 more.

But the views are great, and you have a choice of indoor or outdoor eating. We didn't eat at I'O, but it offers similar views. Also here is the Feast at Lele - Lele was the old Hawaiian name for the area - again, we didn't try it, but it's a smaller beachside Luau, and looked quite good.

There's also good surfer watching here, too. :)

Hula Grill

2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Bldg P. (Whalers Village), Kaanapali, 808-667-6636
http://www.hulagrill.com/

Probably our favorite Hawaiian restaurant experience on Maui. While the restaurant offers a very nice indoor dining area, we sat outside: on the beach, with our feet in the sand, palapas rustling above us in the light breeze while blocking out the sun, listening to live Hawaiian slack key guitar music. It doesn't get much more relaxing than this - and the food was great too. For two, $26, no alcohol. Well worth the trip from Lahaina (just 5 minutes) on a beautiful afternoon.

505 Front St.

505 Front St., Lahaina

At the southern edge of Lahaina, this center features Pacific 'O, I'O, and the Feast at Lele, mentioned above, as well as the Maui Nei Headquarters (see the Maui Walking Tour info below) and a number of other shops.


Lahaina Marketplace

Front St., Lahaina

Nestled in the middle of Lahaina, the Lahaina Marketplace is the kind of place you should visit after dark. No, it's not seedy - it's just that, like the International Marketplace in Waikiki, they light this place up at night, and it's just gorgeous.

There's also a movie theater here. If you're lucky, you may see one of the locals making some beautiful wood carvings at the front of the center.

Lahaina Center

900 Front St., Lahaina
http://lahainacenter.com/

The Lahaina Center is at the northern end of Front Street and Lahaina - and is home to one of our favorite Hawaiian stores - Hilo Hattie (their other store is in Kihei), and to the Warren & Annabelle's show as well. Also here is Hale Kahiko - kind of a miniature version of Kamokila, the demonstration village in Kauai - it's a free look at Hawaiian life, with several hawaiian houses, a canoe, and free weekly hula shows - see the website for schedules.



Old Lahaina Center

845 Wainee St., Lahaina
http://lahainacenter.com/old_lcdirectory.html

Across the street from the Lahaina Center, this is where the theater for Ulalena is (see What to See below) - and there's also a Starbucks and a grocery store here.

Lahaina Cannery Mall

Front St. & Honopiilani Hwy, Lahaina
http://www.lahainacannery.com/

Maui's only fully enclosed air-conditioned shopping mall, this is a small Mall, but it has a nice, airy design. There's a great Hawaiian Products store called Maui Island Creations here - stop in and take a look. They also offer free hula shows every Tuesday at 7 PM, and free Keiki (Children) Hula Shows at 1 PM every Saturday and Sunday.

Whalers Village

2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Kaanapali
http://www.whalersvillage.com/

This is a great open-air shopping center in Kaanapali, just north of Lahaina. In front of the center is a full-size whale skeleton, giving homage to the area's history as a whaling center. There's also a whaling museum here that's worth a look if you have any interest in nautical history. Hula's Grill is here, so take a few minutes to stroll through the center if you're here for lunch.

Mind's Eye Interiors

Mind's Eye Square, 1068 Limahana Pl. Ste 2, Lahaina 808-667-7748

Simply the coolest furniture store we saw on-island, with an amazing array of home furnishings. Right across from the Lahaina Cannery Mall, well worth a look, even if you don't plan to lug an easy chair back home on the plane with you.

Maui Walking Tour - Maui Nei

505 Front Street, Ste 234, Lahaina, 808-661-9494
http://www.mokuula.com
http://www.mauinei.com
mauinei@mokuula.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

Maui Nei is a non-profit group working to restore Moku'ula - the King's Island. Hundreds of years ago, when Lahaina was called Lele and was the home of Hawaii's Royalty, the King lived on an island in the middle of a large fishpond, and Lele was one of the main cultural centers of ancient Hawaii.

Unfortunately, when the Europeans came, they brought with them diseases for which the native Hawaiians had no immunity. Thousands died, and eventually the pond and island were covered over to eliminate the mosquitoes that carried these diseases.

Flash forward several hundred years, and Maui Nei is working with the county of Maui and the town of Lahaina to restore the pond and island. The land has been transferred back to the Hawaiian people, and a baseball field which sits on top of part of the site is being relocated so that work to restore this vital part of Hawaiian history can begin.

Maui Nei exists to forward this vision, and some work at the site has already begun, with non-native plants being removed from the site and the placement of a plaque to remind all island residents and visitors of the importance of this historical site. Over the next year, work should accelerate as the baseball field is removed and excavation begun on-site.

To support this effort, Mau Nei offers walking tours of Lahaina, showing visitors what remains of the ancient Hawaiian sites in the area. Starting at the site of the brick house the King had built to meet with his European visitors (he would return to his own cooler Hawaiian home to sleep at night), you'll see where the old stream ran from the pond, the last breadfruit tree in Lahaina (the area used to be filled with them), hear some of the mythology and history of the West Maui Mountains, and see the site of the King's Island, Moku'ula.

Our guide was a native Hawaiian whose family was given responsibility for the land that stretches from Mauna Kahalawai (the west Maui mountains) down to Lahaina, and his family still maintains part of that land. His responsibility for the land has survived the addition of European laws and US laws that were laid down over old Hawaiian law, and he and his wife live on the land his ancestors cared for up the valley.

One of the most interesting things our guide told us from a gay and lesbian point of view was about the mountains behind Lahaina. The Iao Valley is on the Eastern side of these mountains, and the Iao Needle represented the male genetalia in Hawaiian mythology. There's also a valley on the west side of these mountains that resembles a woman's genetalia, making the space in between a sacred spot where the male and female essences intermingled. There's also a mountain that resembles a sleeping lizard - see the pictures page for an outline of its form.

Maui Nei envisions a thriving cultural center on the site, where native Hawaiians can come to learn the arts and rituals of their forebearers, and where tourists can see what the old Hawaii was really like. It will be a fantastic addition to Lahaina, giving this mostly commercial town a heart.

We sat down with Akoni Akana (the executive director) and Akoni filled us in on what life was like for gay men in ancient Hawaii.

Hawaiians have a word for gay men - Mahu. Every family seems to have at least one, and these were the people who folks turned to whenever a creative touch was needed - when an event was being planned, etc. Mahu were an acknowledged part of Hawaiian life, and were integrated into the culture.

Hawaiians were famous for their travels, crossing the ocean to trade with other islands, both within Hawaii and in other Polynesian regions. Women were not allowed on these voyages, so in an emminently practical solution, the crews would bring along a mahu to take care of the warriors' sexual needs during the voyage, preventing mutiny among the shipmates or the abandonment of the voyage for a woman on one of the visited islands.

In addition, many Hawaiians had more than one lover, and the second or third lover was often mahu. As with the Mountains mentioned above, ancient Hawaiians considered the mahu to have a sacred mixing of male and female spirits.

The tour is very enlightening, especially if you don't know much of Hawaiian history, and supports a worthwhile cause - we can't wait to come visit in a few years, as this vision of a resurrected piece of Maui's past comes to fruition.

Old Lahaina Luau

1251 Front Street, Lahaina, 800-248-5828
http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/index_main.html
info@oldlahainaluau.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

This is hands-down the best Luau we've ever been to - great food, atmosphere, and entertainment. The only complaint we were able to come up with is that we didn't want it to end.

The Luau is right by the beach, across the street from the Lahaina Cannery Mall at the northern end of Lahaina. Get there early for good parking.

The grounds are gorgeous - you're greeted with a beautiful floral lei, and then enter through a huge thatched-roof hall where souveniers are for sale. There's very little waiting - these folks have learned how to move people efficiently. You can get your picture taken as you enter - these photos are available for purchase after the show.

Once you're inside, you can really appreciate the layout and location. The Luau is held right next to the beach, and seating is spacious compared to every other Luau we've attended. We had great seats - thanks to the Maui Visitors Bureau and the Old Lahaina Luau guys for this.

The stage is a half circle bowed out toward the audience, and there are some Hawaiian musicians playing while everyone enters. The seats closest to the stage are at low tables - seating is on the ground, allowing the folks in the higher tables/chairs behind an unimpeded view. As far as we could tell, there wasn't a bad seat in the place - but the first or second rows would be best, depending on if you wanted a cushion or chair to sit on. Seats are reserved, so be sure to ask where your seats are when buying tickets.

The evening starts out with drinks - a variety of slushy alcoholic concoctions and the usual sodas, etc... our favorite was the Lava Flow, a strawberry/pina colada mix (ours was non-alcoholic) that was visually rather cool.

Drinks are served at your table by the handsome shirtless waiters who attend to each table throughout the Luau; you can also order a variety of drinsk for yourself at the bar in the middle of the grounds.

There are a number of vendors on the beachfront path selling Hawaiian crafts, including hand-woven baskets and wood carving - the Luau encourages you to wander around a bit while the meal is prepared, and the open feeling of the grounds encourages exploration.

Then everyone's called over to see the pig being unearthed from its underground oven. Once the meal is ready, folks are taken through in an efficient manner - in less than half an hour, everyone has been served.

The food was fantastic, especially considering the huge portions that must be prepared each evening. The pork was succulent, and the menu included Poi, Ahi, Sweet Potato, Top Sirloin, Chicken, Crab Salad, and a number of other delectable treats.

Once everyone's eaten, dessert is served at each table - the night we were there, they served four separate desserts, each in a small portion for each guest, and all were wonderful.

The lights go down, the musicians file in again, and the dancing begins. Starting with the oldest dances and costumes, the night progresses as the dancers tell some of the legends and stories of Hawaii:

Ote'a: the early migration of Polynesians across the Pacific to Hawaii

Kahiko: ancient Hula, used to communicate with the Gods, accompanied by chanting and traditional implements, performed with respect for Hawaiian ancestors. There's a great arc in the middle about Pele and her sister that we particularly enjoyed.

Missionaries and the Merrie Monarch: Grass skirts and bare male chests give way to more modest, formal attire ushered in after contact with the Europeans.

'Auana: the modern Hula, influenced by immigrants and tourism.

The women are enchanting, the way they move, using the hula to tell a story. And the men are handsome, beautifully tanned masculine dancers who are a joy to watch.

The Old Lahaina Luau takes great pride in presenting authentic Hawaiian hula - so you won't see polynesian fire dancing here. The Luau started in 1986 at a different location, but after a scathing review in 1993, the owners took it apart from top to bottom and rethought everything from the dancing to the grounds to the menu, and the results are phenomenal.

The owners also have several other ventures, including the Aloha Mixed Plate restaurant and a partial stake in the Feast at Lele (see 505 Front Street in the shopping section above).

The evening ends too soon, despite the fact that it lasts two and a half hours. This was the last thing we did on Maui, and it was a wonderful end to our trip - highly recommended as a must-see while on Maui.

Cost is $88.54 for adults and $57.29 for children - and worth every penny.

'ulalena

878 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-661-9913, 877-688-4800
http://www.mauitheatre.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

Enchanting. This show tells the story of the people of Maui, from the original polynesian colonists right through to European occupation. While not strictly historically accurate (the show never mentions the Menehune, Hawaii's original human inhabitants, among other things) the show is beautifully staged and performed, and in parts it rises to excellence.

No meal is served, so plan dinner beforehand at one of the local restaurants.

Cirque du Soliel has an interest of some sort in this show, and the relationship shows. Like Cirque productions, the show is filled with colorful costumes and staging and Hawaiian music.

The show's name, 'ulalena, is the name for a wind peculiar to Maui that brings a golden-red mist at twilight, and seems to symbolize change and a connection with the past, both history and legend.

The story starts with the polynesian settlers, and mixes history with mythology, as Pele watches over the islands and the taro fields and bamboo stands come to life. Time passes, and Captain Cook comes to Hawaii, bringing the modern world with him. Dancers enact the work in the fields done by the latest immigrants from China, ther Phillipines, and other places. But ultimately, the tale ends on a hopeful note, that what is the best of Maui and the Hawaiian Islands will endure.

There's one scene about two thirds of the way through the 75 minute show that is absolutely stunning in its beauty.

It's simply done - a dancer spins around midair ina ring, while three dancers lay below beneath a white sheet that has the turquoise blue waters of Maui's bays projected down on it. Each of the dancers moves their hands and legs under the sheet to simulate waves.

It sounds a bit cheesy, but the effect is amazing - it's like watching the waves stir gently on a moonlit night. Toward the end of the scene, the dancers dissapear behind the curtain, and the sheet pulls back and away, and the effect so perfectly mimics the receeding surf that we were left breathless.

The dancers are skilled and beautiful to watch, and the entire production is enjoyble - take the time to see this show while you're on Maui.

Adults $58 premium, $48 standard; Children $38 premium, $28 standard; child under 3 can share seat with an adult free. Well worth the price.


Warren & Annabelle's

900 Front Street, Lahaina Center, Lahaina, 808-667-6245
http://www.warrenandannabelles.com/

We went to this show with high expectations - our guide book proclaimed it "the single most amazing show in Hawaii", and our neighbors really enjoyed it as well. It is a lot of fun, though it didn't quite live up to the hype. You enter the lounge via a special room ala the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland; there's a trick to getting in which we won't reveal here. The lounge is done up like an old-time draweing room, with many comfortable seats on several levels - we ended up in the "library". If you ordered the meal with the show, you're served it here - the meal adds $27-35 to each ticket's $45 cost. While we didn't have the meal, the folks next to us did, and though it was good, they didn't think it was worth the extra cost, so consider eating elsewhere, before or after.

"Annabelle" is the resident ghost, and she takes requests and playes them on the piano in the middle of the room. Men, try the bathroom out - you may get more than you bargained for at the urinal stalls.

After dinner is served and finished, everyone makes their way into the theater, where Warren, the magician, performs a number of impressive tricks. He's a comedian too, and keeps you well entertained during the show.

Overall, the show is reasonably priced (without dinner) and is enjoyable and amusing, if not the best show on Maui in our minds. Worth the time if you have an extra night in Maui after seeing the Old Lahaina Luau and 'ulalena.

Dragon's Teeth & Honokahua

Makalua-Puna Point, Kapalua

Two great things to see here in Kapalua, 15 minutes north of Lahain. Thanks to Maui Revealed (the guidebook we used) for putting us on to these sights.

There's a turnout and parking lot where Lower Honoapiilani Road becomes Office Road. Park here and walk along the edge of the golf course. You'll come to a large grassy area first fronted by a plaque - this is the Honokahua burial ground. Several thousand ancient Hawaiians were buried here, and rediscovered when the Ritz Carlton Hotel broke ground. After several years of acrimonous court battles, the hotel was eventually built farther away from the shore - andf the state of Hawaii created a commission to deal with any future such sites, to protect the ancient Hawaiian heritage. This is a sacred place for the Hawaiian people - please respect that and do not enter this area. But do take a moment to read the plaque there.

Walk a bit further toward the water and you'll see the Dragon's Teeh - an unusual lava formation created by the wind and sea. The lava rock here has been bleached by sun and rain, and sculpted into fascinating shapes, including the "teeth" along the waterline that give this point its name.

Walk carefully here, but do take the time to explore this amazing natural wonder.

Whale Watching

If you're in Maui in the winter, there's a great whale watching spot between Ma'alaea Village and Lahaina - just past the mile 8 marker.

We arrived at the very start of the season, and altho we didn't spot any whales ourselves, a guy we met at the Old Lahaina Luau had seen several from his hotel room in Kaanapali.


Here are a few resources we found helpful during our visit to Maui. Please remember that the advice in these resources is AYOR - use caution when visiting the harder-to-reach parts of the island, and respect property owners' rights.

Maui Revealed

http://www.wizardpub.com/

One of the Wizard Publications books about the Hawaiian Islands. We've loved these guidebooks ever since we used the Kauai book for our first trip to the island. Wizard is a local outfit based in Kauai, and their books are full of color photos and are extremely easy to flip through and find great things to do. They also seem to have the skinny on all the secret spots on the island, and the book is full of detailed maps that show everything in relation to mile markers along the highways - a definite help when trying to find some of the out-of-the-way places.

Get a copy of this book and read through it before your Maui trip - then take it and use it religiously on the road. A must-have.

50 Thrifty Maui Restaurants

http://www.watermarkpublishing.net/catalog.html#thrifty

A great guide to some of the less expensive (and often lesser known) places to eat on Maui.








The Ready Mapbook of Maui County

http://www.geckofarms.com/hawaiimaps/MauiOverview.htm

Kind of a Thomases Guide to Maui - this book shows the island's streets in terrific detail - great if you need to get around some of Maui's back roads.






Maui Visitors Bureau

http://www.visitmaui.com/

These folks were hugely helpful to us in setting up a number of the tours and events we were able to enjoy while on-island. Check their website for great Maui info, and don't hesitate to email them if you have any questions about the Valley Isle.

Section 3: TRAVELERS' COLUMNS

Innkeepers and travelers, please send us your stories to share!


Out on Vacation: Palm Springs, California
Written by Donald Pile and Ray Williams - copyrighted and used with permission
Email Don & Ray
Visit Don & Ray's Website


Donald and Ray with Claude, the famous Swiss skier with his life partner, Prince Fabian


Donald with Princess Regina, Millie Bollin (Grande Dame of Palm Springs society), Ray Tyke, Jim and Stefan Hemming, owner of the Liberace estate, at the party she hosted for us at her estate.

After a fun time  in West Hollywood it was time to travel to Palm Springs for more fun, excitement, parties and seeing old friends and meeting new ones.   We ALWAYS have a grand time in Palm Springs.  Our very special favorite place to stay is the Fabulous TERRAZZO Resort, 1600 East Palm Canyon Drive.  Tom and Doug have done a remarkable job with their resort. That is why they have so many repeat guests there all the time.  They simply "DO THINGS RIGHT"!

We gave a party at the Terrazzo our second night there and it was attended by the guests at the Terrazzo as well as dear friends who live in Palm Springs.  When you can give a party under the stars in Palm Springs and have so many wonderful and exciting people there you have to have a grand time. Two wonderful artists were at our party.... Robert Shafer and Giorgos Dimakis are extremely professional artists who have a thriving business in Palm Springs.  Their still life oil paintings are the best that we have ever seen by a living artist.  They both are tremendous.  Their studio/gallery is in downtown Palm Springs.  Also attending our party were Denise, Joanna and the fabulous Doreen, all from the Casitas Laquite Resort in Palm Springs.

The following day we hosted Tom and Doug to lunch at  Melvyn's which is our very favorite restaurant in Palm Springs.  Melvyn of course is a real gem.  Brian, the Maitre 'd and Miguel our waiter KNOW how to do things the right way.  It is always such a treat to experience such a fabulous dining experience as we always do when we dine at Melvyn's.  People have been coming to this restaurant for many years simply because it is the "best of the best".  Later that evening our dear friend, Stefan Hemming hosted a party at his estate which is the former estate of the late Liberace.  A grand time was had by all and we got to meet new and exciting people.  Bradley who is one of the finest singers in the business graciously sang a few songs.  It is always fun going to Stefan's parties.  He is a grand host.

The next day two Swiss gentlemen checked into the Terrazzo Resort from Zurich, Switzerland.  One was the noted skier, Claude and his life partner, Prince Fabien.  They had flown in to California and were touring several cities.  They were very interesting, good looking and extremely intelligent.  We took them shopping at all the exciting  boutiques  in Palm Springs and then we dined at the Cedar Creek Inn in the evening.  We ordered their very special Pasta dishes.    What is money for if you don't spend it?  They had found the resort on purpleroofs.com.    Another very interesting gentleman, Alf, originally from Germany also was staying at the Terrazzo Resort.  He now is living in the Northwest part of the United States.  He is good looking, educated with a brilliant mind.  He was very interesting to talk with.   There were also a group of guys from Denver staying at the Terrazzo.  A real nice gentleman, David, from Los Angeles was enjoyable to talk with around the pool.  When staying at the TERRAZZO you met so many people.

The next night, our dear friend Burt hosted a dinner party at LeValarise Restaurant.  Dining under the stars, we WERE the stars, and why not?  Jim and Stefan even performed a duet at the piano. Burt is one of the most energetic and interesting men we have met. 

Another dear friend, Tyke gave a brunch for us at his condo which is decorated beautifully.  Tyke also is an artist and we got to see some of his lovely oil paintings.  We love  Tyke for many reasons and one of them is that he loves giving us shirts!  

The last night we were in Palm Springs Millie Bollin, the Grande Dame of Palm Springs society, gave us a party at her estate attended by exceptionally enjoyable people in Palm Springs.  She is a rare jewel.,   fun, funny, educated, intelligent, witty, great party hostess and just a truly NICE person.   Her neighbor, Princess Regina attended as well as lots of other interesting guests.  Millie has a wonderful dog and bird to keep her company. 

People!  That is what it is all about.  Meeting new, fun, exciting and interesting people.  Our special THANKS for our wonderful time in Palm Springs goes to Tom and Doug, owners of the TERRAZZO Resort.

They are super guys and once you stay with them you will want to return forever.  There is only one bad thing about staying at  the Terrazzo however.  And that is "saying goodbye".  You simply never want to leave.  And a BIG thank you to Jim Doyle who is one of the kindest, generous and giving gentleman that we have ever met in our travels.  Jim can do anything, and we do mean ANYTHING !  He plays the piano so beautifully and is one of the best bartenders in the country.  He is a great businessman and all around super nice guy.     Thanks Jim for all you have done.

So, next time your bored, why not fly out to Palm Springs, check into the TERRAZZO Resort and have yourself a wonderful and exciting time.  Their web address is: www.terrazzo-ps.com.

For more infomation on traveling, email Donald and Ray at gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their web page at: http://www.hometown.aol.com/gaytravelers.

Gaytravelers@aol.com is written by Donald Pile and Ray Williams, a gay couple of over 31 years of "togetherness" who live in the greater Kansas City area. They are also Antique Dealers and have toured the entire United States traveling in search of antiques and for fabulous "gay meccas" of which they have found several.

On their 25th Anniversary, Elizabeth Taylor wrote, "Congratulations to the two of you on your 25th Anniversary! You have surely reached an important milestone in your lives together, and I send you my best wishes as you celebrate tonight". Candice Gingrich wrote, "Your enduring relationship is another shining example of what "family values" is and should be about... trust, security, love commitment. Continued success in your togetherness".

Don and Ray write articles for pridevisiontv.com, Liberty Press (Kansas & Missouri), Gayly Oklahoman, and who do reviews for Zagat. You can email us at: gaytravelers@aol.com or visit their web page at: www.hometown.aol.com/gaytravelers.

Section 4: INNS FOR SALE

Here are the current inns we have listed for sale - wanna become an innkeeper? :)

Add your inn at: http://www.purpleroofs.com/forsaleform.html


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