Add/Edit Listing | Upgrade Listing | Featured | Banner Advertising | Travel Newsletters | Sweepstakes | Lodging Specials | Inns for Sale | Links | Kudos | Policies | Email Us | Home Page | Site Map | Our Other Sites: Gay Realty Network | Mi Casa Su Casa Home Exchange | Mongoose On The Loose Web Design | Purple Unions Weddings
|
|
Welcome to the January 2005 newsletter! In early December, we visited Maui for the first time, and enjoyed the Valley Isle. In this issue, we'll bring you the first half of our trip, including the Road to Hana, the Central Valley, and Haleakala. Next month we'll tell you about the South Shore and West Maui. This month we also have another great article from Don & Ray on Sedona, Arizona - thanks, guys! Innkeepers - write us an article about your area, and we'll include it in a future issue of this newsletter with credit and links to your website and email addresses. Contact wheretostay@purpleroofs.com for more details. Late Availability/Special Offer Accommodation Notices As always, we also have our Late Availability & Special Offer notices (149 offers in 24 countries/regions) all at http://www.purpleroofs.com/lateavailability.html, or just check your favorite destination page - these notices are also right there on the regular listings. Seen Our Real Estate and Wedding Sections Lately? We've been beefing up our realtor, mortgage lender, and wedding vendor listings over the last several months, and now have over 675 real estate professional listings in 46 US states and Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. And we have over 380 Wedding Vendor listings in 38 US states, Canada, the Caribbean, Central America, and Europe. Check out our real estate professional listings here: http://www.gayrealtynetwork.com That's it for this issue - see y'all next time! :) Mark & Scott, PURPLE ROOFS |
|
Maui, Hawaii - The Valley Isle click on the map below, or just scroll down
While we lived in Kaua'i for a year, we've never been to Maui before, and it was with great excitement that we looked forward to our first visit to the Valley Isle. We thought we knew what to expect. "Maui is bigger than Kaua'i." "Maui is more developed than Kaua'i." "Maui is very expensive." "Maui is all strip malls." "Maui is the best of the islands." We heard all of these things from friends and acquaintances in the past. And so we were surprised to find that Maui was all of these things, but also none of these things.
But first, let's take each of the myths above and explore them: Maui is bigger than Kaua'i: Maui is bigger than Kauai, physically - about one and a half times as big. And it has about twice as many people. But most of them are concentrated around Lahaina on the west coast, the south shore, Wailuki/Kahului, and Upcountry, The heart of the west side is utterly uninhabited, filled with steep-walled valleys and magnificent vistas. The center of the island, the valley, is filled with sugarcane, owned by HC&S. And most of the eastern part of the island is taken up by Haleakala, a magnificent 10,000 ft high volcanic peak riven in half by a huge, desolate valley. So although the South Shore (Kihei and Wailua) and Kapahuli have a fair population, there's not a big city on the island, and much of it ls lightly inhabited. Maui is more developed than Kaua'i: See above. Lahaina is mostly a cute little plantation town, with one major north south street and five exits off the freeway. Wailuku/Kahului is a working town - here you'll find Home Depot, Costco, Kmart, Starbucks, Borders - all the things you may need when on island. Kihei is a quintissential beach town - lots of motels and small rental properties and a Safeway, while nextdoor Wailea is a big resort town with one upscale shopping center. Upcountry is essentially the bedroom community for Kahului/Wailuku. Beyond these areas, you can go for miles without seeing a house or shopping center. And the road to Hana is like the North Shore of Kauai, minus Princeville, and extended about four times the distance - so if you want solitude, Maui may also be the place for you. Maui is very expensive: Ok, so this one is basically true. It's very easy to spend $50 for lunch at any beachside cafe, and gas here was running $2.68 a gallon for regular. Resort rooms here at the Four Seasons, Fairmont or Grand Wailea can run you $350-$6,500 a night in low season. And there were new, oceanfront condos offered here for $20 Million Dollars... and selling. But you can keep your costs down while visiting. Buy the cheapest gas you can find - it's not your car. Get a copy of 50 Thrifty Maui Restaurants from Watermark Publishing (see our Reads section at the end of this article for more info) and try some of the less expensive restaurants - as a typical rule of thumb, the farther they are from the beach, the cheaper the meals are (of course, do treat yourself to at least a couple really nice meals while you're here - you did come for the ocean views, after all). Take advantage of whatever coupons you can find - Hilo Hattie gives out some of these, as do many of the rental car companies. And pick up some fresh fruit and have it for breakfast in your room, or stay at a place that includes a free breakfast, Maui is all strip malls: There are many shopping centers here - Kihei has its share of strip malls, and this is probably where Maui gets the reputation. But there's a nice mall in Kahului, and upscale shopping centers in Wailea, Ka'anapali, Ma'alea, and Kapalua, and cute downtown shopping districts in Lahaina and Pa'ia. Maui is the best of the islands: Well, each island has its plusses and minuses. On the plus side, Maui has some great shows (in Lahaina - reviews below) wonderful restaurants, that small town feeling, and the amenities of a large town (all the basics in Kahului). But Maui also has some areas that are subject to strong winds, a fair amount of traffic in the high season, and high octane prices. If you want a quiet, more natural vacation, consider Kaua'i or the Big Island. For lots of nightlife and a "Los Angeles on an Island" feel, pick Oahu. But if you want world-class resort amenities and a mix of the natural and nightlife, Maui may have the right mix for you. We'll cover each of the major areas of Maui below - The Hana Road, South Maui, West Maui, Central Maui, and Haleakala, including accommodations we visited and stayed at, restaurants we ate at, and the many activities and sights we took in while on-island. Thanks to Roxanne and Keli'i at the Maui Visitors Bureau (http://www.visitmaui.com) for helping to set up many of the activites for us on-island. |
|
If you've been to any of the other islands, especially the warm, lush parts, you've seen most of what you'll see on the road to Hana. The drive is absolutely gorgeous, but it is basically a lot of green on a loooong, winding road. That said, it is probably worth the drive, once. If you can, plan a night in Hana - that'll take the edge off the long drive. But be aware that Hana is the place to go to relax - there are very few shops and restaurants there, so don't expect a fantastic resort atmosphere or a great shopping mall. Just lots of green, lots of ocean, and lots of quiet. If you start out at Kahului, count on about three hours. Start out really early, or late morning, to avoid the swarms of cars that take this fabled route mid-morning.
Rates are reasonable and they provide the computers, so you don't have to lug a laptop around if you don't want to. But they also have wifi and ethernet plug-ins, so if you need your laptop, you can connect here with it as well.
Also here is Jacques - half sushi bar, half open-air restaurant. The decor here is beach-kitsch - and it affords great people watching. The food was good, and reasonably priced - this is a good choice if you're in Pa'ia, or in Haiku or Huelo Point and want something good, close.
Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm 1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula, 808-878-3004 Not technically on the Road to Hana, but above Paia in Kula, the Lavender Farm has 312 varieties of lavender, and is well worth a stop. Also offers many lavender products for sale - a unique gift to take back home to family and friends. On past Pa'ia, and you start to pass out of town and into the jungle. You'll pass the outskirts of Haiku, abd bit by bit the houses start to drop away. Huelo Point is probably the last of the little inhabited areas (though there are pockets of houses here and there on the way from here to Hana) and we visited two Purple Roofs properties here - Cliff's Edge and Huelo Point Flower Farm.
Cliff's Edge Huelo Point, 808 573-2986, 866 772-5642
They've put together a beautiful property. The main house is separated from the bluff by only the pool, a kidney-shaped tropical oasis surrounded by a neatly trimmed, beautifully green lawn. Palm trees sway gently overhead, and there's an in-ground jacuzzi to enjoy as well. There's a wooden deck out on the edge of the bluff for sea watching - take a tropical drink out here and settle in with a good book for the afternoon. The property is also a great location for a Maui Wedding - they're not legal yet in Hawaii for gay and lesbian couples, but you can have a ceremony here to mark your commitment to one another.
We stayed here overnight - in the morning, Susan brought us a wonderful fresh fruit breakfast, complete with pineapple, papaya, star fruit, strawberries, and kiwis.
Huelo Point is just 15 minutes outside Pa'ia and 25 minutes from Kahului, making it a great quiet getaway on the lush north shore, but close to everything. Jon and Susan are very welcoming of the gay and lesbian community, and have been listed on Purple Roofs for a number of years. Cliff's Edge is a great choice on the road to Hana. And if you stay here, you're already a third of the way there! Huelo Point, 808-572-1850 Another great choice on Huelo Point, this property is literally right next door to Cliff's Edge, and shares the same fantastic views. Doug and Guy own this property, and they built it from the ground up - when they bought the property in 1987 it was just a flat, empty parcel with a single tree. Now it's a lush tropical oasis, filled with thousands of plants, many of them fruit bearing. Go out and pick your own breakfast in the yard if you want, and wander under the breadfruit trees and through a banana orchard. There are three houses and a cottage here, including a top floor carriage house suite (with loft bedroom) and a great glass cottage - glass on three sides, giving you ocean and garden views (this cottage is a lot of fun - they packed it with amenities, including a small kitchenette, tv/vcr, and bathroom behind a closet-like sliding mirror - and of course an outdoor shower). It's like sleeping in the middle of the jungle, but with the bugs all locked outside. Finally, the property has three hot tubs and a stand-out tropical pool - rent the main house and you'll have a private deck overlooking this pool, plus knock-out ocean views. Another great choice - and for sale, if you're in the market for a prime tropical B&B property. Kailua, 808-572-9726 Owned by Tony and Sue Parrinella, Kailua Maui Gardens is a tropical wonderland. Each of the four private cottages is separate, and offers wonderful jungle views of the lush tropical gardens that give this property its name. The property also has a pool with a grill, and 2 jacuzzis. The two acre property feels much larger, and is filled with paths, small bridges and unexpected vistas. There's also a large grassy lawn at one corner of the property that's perfect for weddings - and Tony & Sue would be thrilled to have you say your vows together here. One hour from Hana or Kihei, just 20-30 minutes to Paia for dinner - far enough out to be really quiet and private, but close enough to drive to most island sights easily. After Huelo Point, there's little in the way of civilization. If you get the Maui Revealed book from Wizard Publications (more info at the end of this article) youll get the skinny on all kinds of natural wonders you can see on the way from here to Hana. But we'll cover just a few here:
The first is Ke'anae Peninsula. This flat peninsula is visible from the highway, and is accessible via a narrow road that leads down to sea level. This is the rough end of a historically recent lava flow. The story here is that one of the Hawaiian Chiefs had his people cart down dirt by hand to the peninsula to make it suitable for living and farming. The peninsula today is home to a small community - the original town was demolished in the early 19th century by a tidal wave in 1946, except for a small stone church that still stands in the middle of a green field. The waves here crash upon the black rocks in a powerful rhythm, sending up huge streamers of sea spume. This was one of the most awesome sights we found on the entire Eastern Coast - and maybe on the whole island. The sound of the surf, the feel of the sea spray on your skin, just the sense you get here of the power of the sea - it's well worth the stop. Also found here is the best Banana Bread on the Eastern Coast - at the Ke'anae Landing Fruit Stand. Served warm, it's a little slice of heaven. Banana Bread seems to be a BIG THING on Maui - why, we can't say, except they gotta do something with all those Bananas. Chalk it up to another Islands mystery. A little ways past the Peninsula turnout, we stopped at the Wailua Valley State Wayside (just before the 19 mile marker) - here you'll find great views of the land and water below, and the Ko'olau Gap above, one of three erosion valleys that descend from the Haleakela Crater above. There's a short staircase that climbs up to the lookout point. The parking lot is small and there's not a lot of visibility around the turn on the highway, so if you can, turn the car around when you park here so you can easily enter the highway again. Nahiku A little farther on, another turn-off takes you to Nahiku - what our Maui guidebook described as the place plants go when they die. It's lush and beautiful, but to our minds not so much more so than the main highway that it's worth the extra drive. The narrow road winds all the way down to the beach at a nice enough spot, but if you're already getting tired of driving the highway, you can safely skip this turn-off. Keep in mind that you're sharing the road with lots of tour buses, and they make frequent spots - some of the best little places along the way may be (or may be about to be) swarming with other tourists. Eventually, we reached Hana itself. Hana is a small town with just two main streets, and there's little here besides a couple restaurants, a few inns, and some nice beaches - oh, and lots and lots of green. There's a really nice little tropical hotel resort here, not listed on Purple Roofs, but they have a restaurant with a great view, and it's a good place to stop for breakfast or lunch before starting back (or continuing on around the island). Past Hana are the seven sacred ponds and the edge of Haleakala National Park where it comes down from the mountain thru the Kipahulu Gap - we didn't stop here, but were interested to hear that Charles Lindburgh was buried here, in a private ceremony with just a few family and friends as onlookers. Just past the park, we came upon our most remote innkeepers on the island, at Ala Aina B&B:
SR 184 A, Kipahulu, 808-248-7824, 877-216-1733 Ala aina is the place for folks who want to get away from it all. Accessible only by the Hana Highway from the north (3 hours from Kahului) or the back road from the west (2 hours), it's literally in the middle of nowhere, and because of this, the property is private. And quiet. There's a zen sort of feel to the grounds, both because ofthe tranquil out-of-the-way atmosphere and because of the wide expanse of simple, elegant lawn and the buddist statuary that dots the property. There's only one rental unit here, and it has a wonderful sunning deck with an ocean view. Or relax on the lawn below. The property is surrounded by beautiful tropical plants, including a banana orchard, and is self sufficient, producing its own electricity and ground water. If you want to just relax and let all of civilization's stress drop away, consider Ala Aina for a couple nights or longer. On past Ala Aina and Kipahulu, the road narrows and runs about 10 miles as a gravel and then often patched single lane paved road. At worst, it's a twisty, narrow gravel and firm dirt trek around blind corners close to sea level, but that's a fairly short span. For the rest, it's just mostly bumpy. This is the faster way back, and takes you through the drier south side of Haleakela. If you're lucky, look north around mile marker 40 and you'll see a tropical valley with lots of waterfalls. As you enter the drier area, you'll find a very different Hawaii - it has a harsh beauty that's hard to describe. There are few "sights" here, but it's an amazing place nonetheless. You'll see a lava arch, an erroding gully filled with lava rocks, wide open expandes of wind-eroded cliffs, and an amazing emptiness - other than a couple other cars, the only civilization we saw was a little jewelry stand on the side of the road, and even that was before we reached the drier part of the drive. Eventually the road swings around the southwest corner of Haleakala, and turns northward into Upcountry Maui. At this point, you're just a couple miles from the South Shore resorts, but there is no road connecting the two. This struck us as one of the strangest things about Maui - they have a very innefficient highway system. Everything runs through Kahului up on the north shore - to get from anywhere to anywhere, you usually have to pass by the airport. In this case, there's a landowner who owns a lot of property between the shore and upcountry. The owner once allowed access across their land, by way of a private road that connected the two highways. But liability issues forced them to close the road, so now you have to drive about 20 miles north, then another 20 south, to traverse the two mile or so distance between the highways. In a way, this is probably a blessing, as it limits development of this area of the island. But it's a little maddening to be able to see the place you want to go right in front of you, and then have to detour 40 miles to get there. :::think good Hawaiian thoughts... think good Hawaiian thoughts::: Driving north, you'll pass through Keokea, Kula, and Pukalani - we didn't spend much time up here, but the Maui Revealed book will clue you in to things to do in the middle of Maui. |
![]() Another long drive on Maui is the road up to the Summit of Haleakela. There are many myths and stories told about this place - this is where Maui lassoed the sun to slow it down and extend he length of the day for the Hawaiians. From Kahului, allow a couple hours to make it from the sea to the 10,000 foot summit. Wear long pants, socks and shoes and a sweater or jacket - we went up on a warm day, and it was probably in the mid forties at the summit. Also take lots of water, as it is easy to dehydrate at that altitude, and also take sunscreen - you burn a lot faster too at 10,000 feet.
We also saw a horseback tour at the top of the mountain.
The drive up the mountain starts at the Haleakela Crater Highway in Kula - from here, the road traverses the mountain side in a series of switchbacks covering about 20 miles. There are many turnouts where you can see spectacular views of the valley below, West Maui, and the four neighbor islands in the distance. But the hands-down best place to stop is the Leleiwi Lookout - there's a full parking lot here. Park the car, and then (carefully) cross the highway at the crosswalk. You can see clearly up and down the highway, so you should have ample notice of any approaching cars. The trail is not paved, but is well maintained, and as you drop below the road level, you may notice something you're probably unaccustomed to - absolute silence. When there are no cars passing by above, the trail can be astoundingly quiet - you don't realize how much white noise there is around you all the time until you find a place like this.
There's a sheltered lookout here, but you can also step around it to see the unfiltered view. The landscape below you is so stark and desolate, it's hard to reconcile it with the Hana Highway that rings this mountain crater. Thanks again to the Maui Revealed book - it told us the story of the formation of this natural wonder. The dormant volcanic peak eroded into several valleys over thousands of years, eventually meeting one another in the middle and splitting the original mountain in half. Then the mountain awoke, and lava flows filled up these central valleys, building them up into a wide, flatter valley inbetween the two ridges. You can still clearly see one of the last lava flows from this vantage point - a stark, black river against the volcanic sands around it. The valley has little to no plant life, just harsh volcanic flows, cliffs, and softer dunes of volcanic sand in reds, greys and blacks - it reminds you of nothing so much as a place on another planet - perhaps Mars. S
We stopped at the second visitor's center, and the views here were also impressive - looking down the valley instead of up it. We also saw a horse riding tour readying to depart here. And there are cabins to rent down in the crater itself, but they are assigned by lottery, so contact the Park Service early. As we drove the last mile or so from here to the summit, the clouds started to race in across the top of the mountain, and it seemed to drop another 10 degrees or so in temerature. The summit (at 10,023 feet) is accessible from the parking lot by both an ascending staircase and by a long ramp suitable for wheelchairs. There's nothing at the top but a viewing room and a handrail-protected loop, but the views are enough. Coming back down from the summit, take your time - it may be tempting to rush back down the hill to get to the next thing, but remember two things - the switchbacks can be extremely dangerous at highjer speeds, and you're on aloha time - slow down. Otherwise, you may do a Thelma and Louise re-enactment, but without the accompanying fame and cultural icon status. |
![]() Every one of the major islands in Hawaii needs a place that has all the practical things - groceries, furniture stores, hardware stores, and everyting else folks living here need in their day-to-day lives. Wailuku and Kahului provide these things. As the county seat, Wailuku has the government buildings, and Kahului has Home Depot, Costco, Kmart, Starbucks, Borders Books, the Mall, and the airport.
The Maui Tropical Plantation is also here, nestled against the West Maui mountains overlooking the central valley - more information below. This is also where the cruise ships dock for the interisland cruises.
Island Sands #106 150 Hauoli St The location, where the central valley connects to West Maui on the south shore, is very convenient to all other areas of the island. Whale watching is great from the lanai during season. Maalaea Harbor and the Maui Ocean Center is only a 5 minute walk from the condo. Diving and snorkeling boats leave from the harbor all day long. Only 20 minutes from the airport, 10 minutes to Kihei.
We spent relatively little time in Kahului and Wailuku. We frequented the Dairy Road Starbucks (one of seven on-island - there are two here, two in Lahaina, two in Kihei, and one more somewhere else in a Foodland grocery store), and we stopped by the Queen Kaahumanu mall. It's a nice clean mall, two story in part but with an outdoor feel - the "roof" is a series of tents that let in the outside breezes. The best thing about the mall is the performances that take place in the central courtyard. Come at the right time and you can see free hula dancing on the stage there. Check here for an events schedule. There's also a Mailboxes Etc. store at the corner of Dairy Road and the Hana Highway that's handy for shipping back home all those little things you bought on-island - but be aware that there's no "ground" shipping from Hawaii - you can ship air top the mainland and then ground from there via UPS, which is a little cheaper, but a single box cost us $75 to send home. You might be better off packing an empty duffle bag that you can then take home full as a carry-on. There's a Safeway here (there's also one in Kihei at the Piilani Highway and Pi'ikea Rd. and one at the Lahina Cannery center) - stock up on snacks and drinks for your room. On the south side of the central valley, where West Maui meets the valley at the ocean shore, Ma'alaea Village sits on a natural harbor, and there's a small shopping center here, along with the Maui Ocean Center (see below). Ma'alaea Ocean Center, Ma'alaea, 800-300-6067 http://www.handmade-soap.com/store_maui.html One of our favorite Hawaiian stores, thes stortes can be found on most if not all of the islands. We had one in Kilauea, just a few milles from our home on Kauai. They have a great selection of tropical soaps and candles, and very friendly staff. They can ship for you, or you can take their delectable scents with you on the plane home. There are a few other shops in this center, along with the Ma'alaea Grill (see review below).
Manana Garage 33 Lono Ave, Kahului, 808-873-0220 We did have dinner here at a great little restaurant called Manana Garage (that's actually a Spanish word - threw us off a bit too at first <grin> with Keli'i from the Maui Visitors bureau, and Jim, his partner. It's a cute industrial-looking restaurant with a great menu - serving nuevo Latino cuisine, and we highly recommend it. No view, but reasonable prices, fun atmosphere, and great food. Maalea Ocean Center, Maalea, 808-243-2206 Our friends at Maui Sunseeker took us to dinner at this ocean-front restaurant, and we were extremely pleased. The food was terrific, the staff was a kick, and the view across the water to Kihei and Wailea was fantastic. A great place to eat when staying in Kihei, Wailuku or Ma'alaea.
One of the most spectacular natural sights on Maui, and also one of the easiest to get to, is the Iao Valley Needle. Drive up Main Street in Wailuku towards the west Maui Mountains. As you pass out of town, watch for the split in the road, and take the right-hand fork. Another couple miles will bring you to the park parking lot. This valley you find yourself in, with its majestic steep walls and amazing shades of green, was the sight of one of the bloodiest battles in Maui's history. King Kamehameha The Great, determined to conquer all the Hawaiian islands and bring them under central rule, landed in the central valley below, and battled up into the valley with the local warriors. Thousands were killed, damming the stream waters with their bodies.
This valley and the one on the Lahaina side also have an important place in Hawaiian mythology. Iao Needle is seen as the male member, while a valley on the Lahaina side is the female, and the space between is a mystical region where the powers of male and female mix. The needle is actually the end of a long, thin ridge. The hike from the parking lot may seem a little daunting - the sign says it takes half an hour, but you'll actually make it to the end in 5-10 minutes, and half an hour will alklow you to explore most of the site. You may encounter a Hawaiian at a bridge here who will dive for a small payment into the pool below - we didn't pay him, but someone else did, and it made for a kewl shot. You'll also see many wild house cats here - when we came up the valley the first time, they were clustered under a tree on the side of the road in what can only be described as a pride. 1670 Honopiilani Hwy, Waikapu, 808-244-7643, 800-451-6805
It was amazing to watch as she strategically used the spike to shred the heavy outer casing, then cracked the inner "nut" apart to reveal the coconut meat. Entrance is free, but the tram tour costs a small fee. The tram departs on average every 45 minutes. 192 Ma'alaea Rd., Ma'alaea, 808-270-7000
All of the marine life here is from the Hawaiian Islands region, and all tanks have below-water views for great viewing. The glass in the tanks is specially polarized to allow flash pictures - you'll get better results this way. This was one of our favorite Maui attractions, and is well worth the time. Tickets are currently $20 for adults, $13 for children and $17 for seniors. |
|
Just below the central valley, hugging the coastline, is the South Shore - Kihei to the north, and Wailea to the south. Kihei is a beach town. The city higs the coast, its two main drags running parallel to the water. Kihei is filled with motels and small boutique hotels, along with apartments and a few small shopping centers. This town is all about the beach, and everywhere in Kihei is either across from the water or just a short walk to it. Kihei also boasts one of the two Hilo Hattie stores on the island, a must-stop for every visitor, if only for those inexpensive but oh-so-comfortable sandals they sell and the obligatory Macadamia nuts. There's also a Safeway here to provision your snack bar with back at your room, several starbucks, and a wide variety of places to eat. Just to the south, Wailea is about one thing - luxury. One of two main resorts on-island (the other is on the west side), Wailea has the Four Seasons, the Grand Wailea, and a beautiful shopping center. Wailea also has some of the most expensive housing costs on Maui - while we were here, they were offering an ocean-view condo for $20,000,000 (yes, million). The area is well watered and lushly tropical, in sharp contrast to the dry hills above. The South Shore gets its abundance of water through an underground pipe from the northern part of the island.
Maui Sunseeker & Wailana Inn - Hale Lehua Properties 551 South Kihei Rd., 808-879-1261, 800-532-6284
The new combined resort - Hale Lehua - sits in the northern part of Kihei, right across from the beach. The rooms in the Sunseeker property are all on the ground floor, and face out over the ocean. The Wailana Inn rooms are on two levels - those on the top floor have gorgeous ocean views, while the bottom floor rooms look out onto the courtyard. The Sunseeker's clientele is about 50% gay/lesbian and 50% straight; the Wailana Inn is about 90% gay/lesbian, 10% straight.
The California King bed was very comfortable - and while the resort is on Kihei Road, so you will get some traffic noise, it's nice to keep the windows open at night to hear the sound of the waves. There are two 1 bedroom suites and two junior suites in the Sunseeker part of the property. The front of the Sunseeker has slate-covered lanais facing the ocean and a manicured, open lawn landscaped with beautiful tropical foliage - this is a great place to see some fantastic sunsets (and we have the pictures to prove it).
We can't wait to see how this comes together - this is going to be a fantastic resort getaway for gay and lesbian travelers.
The rooms here have been redecorated in a similar fashion to the Sunseeker's rooms, giving the whole property a more cohesvive feel. And the bathrooms in the Wailana, with their slate-covered walls, are simply gorgeous. The Wailana rooms also feature Cal King Beds, and some have stunning Pacific Ocean views from the second story. There are six hotel rooms and six junior suites in the Wailana side. Hale Lehua also features a Clothing Optional private sundeck with jacuzzi, and BBQ grill. It's a great place to meet other guys who are staying at the hotel, and to get a little well-deserved Hawaiian R&R. This is the largest gay and lesbian property you'll find on the island. It's extremely clean, well-maintained, with a great location and a very friendly staff, and with the changes coming in 2005, we expect Hale Lehua will only get better. Wailea, 808-879-7099, 877-STAYMAUI The first of two properties we visited in Wailea, Dreams Come True is owned by Tom and Denise, a very friendly straight couple, and sits above most of Wailea in a quiet residential neighborhood. The property is a beautifully landscaped half acre, with Mango, Papaya and Banana Trees and a quiet screened-in gazebo with a waterfall and several birds to provide a tropical atmosphere. It features both a private cottage rental (at the base of the driveway, complete with ocean view and a wide private deck) and two b&b rooms in the main house. One of the B&B rooms has a screened in deck, and also a kitchenette. The property also features an outdoor shower, and an outdoor kitchen and barbeque that sit on a wide deck in front of the main house overlooking the ocean. There's a big-screen TV for guest use in the common room. This is a great choice for folks who want to stay in Wailea and enjoy the great year-round weather of the south shore - close to Little Beach, Maui's premier nude beach. Wailea, 808--874-8687; 800-598-9550 The other property we visited while in Wailea was Two Mermaids - the only lesbian-owned property we visited on Maui. This B&B is just down the hill from Dreams Come True, and features a terrific pool in the private back yard. Judee and Miranda are life partners, and were first married in British Columbia, Canada. Altho we didn't get to meet Judee, Miranda was a wonderful host. The property has several different rooms and rental configurations - larger groups can rent out a joined space, or couples can rent a smaller configuration. Judee and Miranda welcome kids, and one of their rooms has a nautical theme that children will really enjoy. The owners are still relatively new to the property, and have extensive plans to continue to add to and upgrade the b&b over the next several years. This is a great place for folks who want a comfortable, homey atmosphere close to all of South Shore's sights.
Sarentos On The Beach 2980 South Kihei, 808-875-7555 This was our favorite place to eat on the South Shore. The beach views are terrific, and the food was excellent. The meal was a bit pricey (almost $100 for two, not including any alcoholic beverages) but this one's a great choice for a romantic dinner on the beach while you're on-island. A minor quibble - several friends commented, and we also noticed, that they tend to hover over you here. We timed it, and the longest it took for an empty sugar packet to be removed from the table was 45 seconds. The service is great, but they might want to try to back off just a little. But don't let that stop you - Sarentos is an excellent choice. Fairmont Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-875-4100 The Fairmont Hotel, while fairly new, was built to look like a classic Hollywood Hotel. The grounds are fantastic, and the Polo Beach Grill sits above them with great poolside and ocean views. The food is overpriced (though not bad) - typical resort fare. But it's a great place for people watching, and the resort atmosphere is hard to beat. Marco's Grill & Deli 1445 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808-874-4041 We had breakfast at Marco's - it's right on Kihei Road, and is in a gorgeous Itallian style building, but there's no real view here. The food was fair but overpriced, and the service so-so. Sansei Restaurant Kihei Town Center, Kihei, 808-669-6286 The folks at the Maui Visitor's Center suggested dinner here, and we're glad they did. The decor is stylish and fun, and the food was very good. Service was excellent, and although we didn't have sushi (not one of our favorites), we hear the sushi dishes are among the most inventive and well-done on Maui. There's also Karaoke on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at the Kihei location. If you're in Kapalua, try the Sansei's there. A great choice for a reasonably priced, flavorful dinner.
The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, 808-891-6770 One of the nicest shopping centers on Maui is the Shops at Wailea. Built around a beautiful central courtyard and fountain, the Shops at Wailea features the kind of stores you'd expect on Fifth Avenue in New York or in downtown Beverly Hills, with a bit of an Island Flavor. You probably won't find much to buy here unless you have a rather large pocketbook - but hey, it's fun to look. |
|
West Maui starts at the mountains above Wailuku (technically, the Iao Valley is in West Maui, but since the only access is from the Central Valley, we included it there). The ancient heart of West Maui was Lele, at one time the Royal Capital of the islands. Lele was the site of a great fishpond called the Mokulua, and was where the royal family lived. When the Europeans came, the diseases they brought with them decimated the local population, and the fish ponds were covered over in an effort to eradicate the mosquitoes in the area. Lahaina (Cruel Sun) grew up in the area where Lele had once flourished, and is now a tourist mecca on the west shore. For more on the area's history, see the Maui Nei tour section below.
It takes about 20-25 minutes to get to Lahaina from Kihei, and the drive is mostly along the oceanside. You'll see Lana'i Island across the water, as well as some beautiful mountain vistas and maybe even a cruise ship coming into Lahaina - there's no landing here big enough for these ships, so visitors are ferried ashore in small boats.
Kapalua has some beautiful (and expensive) resorts, as well as the homes of many wealthy and famous folks, including Kelsey Grammer (Frasier). It also has a Hawaiian burial ground and an intricate lava flow called the Dragon's Teeth - more on all of these below.
127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 808-661-0577 This plantation town style inn boasts one of the best lodging locations in Lahaina - right in the middle of town, right across the street from the Ocean. With 10 rooms and two suites, all with bath ensuite, this is a charming old-world inn, furnished with beautiful antiques. Each room has a deck that looks out on the ocean (the ocean is to your right, so you do have to look over the pther decks unless you get the end room) and the people watching a floor below is fantastic. All rooms also have A/C, important in the land of the "cruel sun". The inn is run by Debbie and Toni, two sisters - Debbie has been in Maui since April, and Toni has been there for 20 years. Both are very friendly, and will welcome you with open arms - they love their gay clientele. You're walking distance to all of Lahaina - this is a great place to stay if you want to be close to everything in town. 67 Kaniau Rd., Lahaina, 808-661-8800, 800-939-3217 Appearances can be deceiving. Garden Gate B&B is in a quiet, unassuming neighborhood just north of downtown Lahaina, and the house itself is rather plain from the front. But walk through the front gate into the hidden courtyard, and the place is transformed into a tropical wonderland. The long courtyard is filled with tropical plants, and is lit at night with beautiful white lights. The two newest rooms are on the top floor, with great ocean views and an expansive feel. The rooms have oversized closets, a small refrigerator, A/C, and luxurious bathrooms. These two units share a wide deck. Breakfast is served in the courtyard, and consists of fresh juices, fruits, and coffee, and the innkeepers are happy to spend time with you chatting about island life in general and Lahaina in particular. A great choice for fokks who want to be near Lahaina, but want a bit of privacy.
Great food, reasonable prices, great view - what more can we say? Plenty, apparently. Located on the second story just across from the Seawall, BJ's is right in the middle of Lahaina, and has fantastic views of the waterfront and the ocean. The decor is great too - there's a beautiful mural along one wall, and the place is fun and inviting. And the deep dish pizza is one of the best (if not the best) on the island. We ate here twice - and got out for about $30 total for the two of us each time. Great for lunch or an easy dinner. 505 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-667-4341
But the views are great, and you have a choice of indoor or outdoor eating. We didn't eat at I'O, but it offers similar views. Also here is the Feast at Lele - Lele was the old Hawaiian name for the area - again, we didn't try it, but it's a smaller beachside Luau, and looked quite good. There's also good surfer watching here, too. :) 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Bldg P. (Whalers Village), Kaanapali, 808-667-6636 Probably our favorite Hawaiian restaurant experience on Maui. While the restaurant offers a very nice indoor dining area, we sat outside: on the beach, with our feet in the sand, palapas rustling above us in the light breeze while blocking out the sun, listening to live Hawaiian slack key guitar music. It doesn't get much more relaxing than this - and the food was great too. For two, $26, no alcohol. Well worth the trip from Lahaina (just 5 minutes) on a beautiful afternoon.
At the southern edge of Lahaina, this center features Pacific 'O, I'O, and the Feast at Lele, mentioned above, as well as the Maui Nei Headquarters (see the Maui Walking Tour info below) and a number of other shops. Nestled in the middle of Lahaina, the Lahaina Marketplace is the kind of place you should visit after dark. No, it's not seedy - it's just that, like the International Marketplace in Waikiki, they light this place up at night, and it's just gorgeous. There's also a movie theater here. If you're lucky, you may see one of the locals making some beautiful wood carvings at the front of the center. 900 Front St., Lahaina The Lahaina Center is at the northern end of Front Street and Lahaina - and is home to one of our favorite Hawaiian stores - Hilo Hattie (their other store is in Kihei), and to the Warren & Annabelle's show as well. Also here is Hale Kahiko - kind of a miniature version of Kamokila, the demonstration village in Kauai - it's a free look at Hawaiian life, with several hawaiian houses, a canoe, and free weekly hula shows - see the website for schedules. |