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Welcome to the October 2004 newsletter! Last month, we made our first visit to Canada - a nine day trip to Victoria, Salt Spring Island, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver - and visited 27 Purple Roofs innkeepers. This month, we'll bri9ng you the scoop on Victoria, Salt Spring Island, and Vancouver Island, and next month we'll wrap it up with some great travel info and pictures on Vancover. Our other big news is traffic - in late September, we welcomed our 2 millionth visitor! This month we also have another great article from Don & Ray on meeting and talking up gay and lesbian travelers who come to your city - thanks, guys! Innkeepers - write us an article about your area, and we'll include it in a future issue of this newsletter with credit and links to your website and email addresses. Contact wheretostay@purpleroofs.com for more details. Late Availability/Special Offer Accommodation Notices As always, we also have our Late Availability & Special Offer notices (124 offers in 21 countries/regions) all at http://www.purpleroofs.com/lateavailability.html, or just check your favorite destination page - these notices are also right there on the regular listings. Innkeepers - Expanded Listings On Sale in October To celebrate our first 2 million visitors, we're extending our Expanded Listing sale - save 47% on a full page listing on Purple Roofs, and get it submitted to up to 25 search engines and directories. More info at: http://www.purpleroofs.com/expandedlisting.html Seen Our Real Estate and Wedding Sections Lately? We've been beefing up our realtor, mortgage lender, and wedding vendor listings over the last several months, and now have over 660 real estate professional listings in 46 US states and Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. And we have over 380 Wedding Vendor listings in 38 US states, Canada, the Caribbean, Central America, and Europe. Check out our real estate professional listings here: http://www.gayrealtynetwork.com That's it for this issue - see y'all next time! :) Mark & Scott, PURPLE ROOFS |
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British Columbia Part One: click on any city on the map below, or just scroll down
For our first extended innkeeper tour in two years, we chose British Columbia, Canada. We've planned to visit this area for years, and it seemed like the time was finally right. We flew up to Vancouver in late September, the shoulder season between the high summertime traffic and the more quiet winter. This month, we'll share the details on the Vancouver Island portion of our trip (including Victoria, Salt Spring Island, and central Vancouver Island); next month we'll cover our time in Vancouver. Because of time limitations, we did miss a few of the farther out areas - especially Sooke west of Victoria and Tofino on the central western coast of Vancouver Island, but we hope to return and spend a bit more time on-island, and may be able to see more places then. We hear both are worth the trip! We flew into the Vancouver airport on a Tuesday afternoon in September, and two things struck us immediately. It was very quiet. And it was very clean – probably one of the nicest airports we’ve been to. International flights come into one end of the terminal, and you walk what seems like several miles on an elevated walkway that gives you a nice overview of much of the building. But most impressive was the two story fountain that ran down the walls and then alongside the stairs leading into the customs area – paved with river rock and overlooked by a huge round intuit totem, the overall effect was impressive. Customs was easy – you fill out a form on the plane declaring any goods you’re bringing into the country; then you stand in line and wait for an agent to look over your passport (for US citizens, an official copy of your birth certificate and a drivers license is sufficent). We planned to visit Victoria first, which is an hour and a half’s trip across the Georgia Strait to Vancouver Island. From the airport, we drove directly to the Tsawassen (locals pronounce it 'tawasin' or 'sawasin') ferry and on across the Georgia Strait to Swartz Bay and Victoria. Arriving at the airport at 3:25, we were in our rental car by 4:10, and at the ferry landing at 4:35. For peak season (summer time) allow a bit longer. The ferry set-up is somewhat like a toll bridge crossing – you pay the fee, and then get directed to a lane for the next available ferry. Fees are about $32 Canadian for the car and another $8-9 each per person. Arriving at 4:35, we found that the 5 PM ferry was already full, so we got in line for the 6 PM. Get ferry prices, schedules, and make reservations at http://www.bcferries.ca. If you’re fairly certain what time you’ll arrive at the ferry landing, you can reserve a particular boat for about $15 Canadian and save yourself some time. The landing is kind of surreal, at least for first-timers like ourselves. Once you get in line, you park, and wait. Lanes are dedicated for each ferry time, so once you stop, you don’t move the car again until it’s time to load the ferry. Folks get out of their cars and go to the concessions stand for drinks and food, and to use the public restrooms – kind of like a drive-in movie, without the movie. The food’s not great, but will settle a rumbling stomach.
The smaller ferries only have sitting areas, but again, the views can be memorable. Once we reached the other side, it was an easy 25 minute drive to downtown Victoria. |
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There’s one gay bar – Prism (642 Johnson St., 250-388-0505) – but you’re likely to run into glbt folks most anywhere you go, especially in the furniture stores and galleries and the trendy restaurants around town. But even the straight folks were uniformly friendly, especially when we told them what we did for a living. They were happy to have us visiting their city by the sea. We visited a number of areas in Victoria – downtown (where the famous Empress Hotel is), Esqualimat (across the bridge from downtown, where there’s a lot of new construction), Cardboro Bay and Oak Bay (where some of the nicest mansions on the island are – what the locals call Behind the Tweed Curtain), and Langford, a bit west of Vancouver where there are many outdoor recreation activities. Victoria is filled with things for gay and lesbian travelers to do, and places for them to stay – we’ll cover a few of them below.
Earle Clarke House 1461 Pembroke St., Victoria, 250-595-0944, 866-595-0941 Click On Any Picture To See More
From the getgo, Joyce and Peter of Earle Clarke House were terrific. We contacted them when we were planning our visit to Victoria, and they immediately offered us a place to stay. And Joyce spent days on the phone getting us a press pass from the local tourism bureau so we could preview many of Victoria’s attractions for you.
The kitchen (where you’ll often find Peter and Joyce preparing elements of the next morning’s breakfast in the late evening) is here - it's the quintessentiual innkeepers' kitchen, warm and welcoming and suffused with a natural glow from the beautiful back yard (more on the yard below). This is also where the breakfast room, the innkeepers’ study, and a huge sitting room with a traditional fireplace are - all the common areas inside the inn. The whole place glows - the rich wood floors and wonderful decoration make this a place you just want to stop in for awhile, to relax and chat up the innkeepers. And if you do, they'll serve you some wonderful British Cookies (Hob Nobs - and we promised to tell you that they're as omnipresent in the UK as Oreos are in the US, so these aren't cookies that put on airs) - especially the chocolate-covered ones.
Peter, by the way, is an accomplished novelist – look on Amazon.com under Peter Such for some of his work (titles are Dolphin's Wake, Vanished Peoples, Riverrun, Soundprints, and Fallout).
Joyce and Peter come to sit with their guests at breakfast and chat, and are an invaluable source of area information. The house features two rented rooms, one upstairs (where we stayed) and one downstairs. You have the run of the floor, which for us included a spacious bedroom (with a very comfortable firm mattress) with window seat, a water closet, a gorgeous shower room with a huge tub, and Joyce’s studio. The bedroom also has a fantastic view, as the B&B is on one of the higher spots in Victoria - you can see across the valley to the hills in the distance.
Joyce does beautiful art, specializing in the human form – the pieces she was working on while we were there portrayed a couple in a very vulnerable place, a story just waiting foor you to fill in the words.
Entry to our floor was from a door off the dining room. The rooms are staggered, with the upstairs bedroom in the front of the house, the common areas and innkeepers' quarters on the middle floor at the back of the house, and the bottom suite at the front of the house, so you have a real sense of privacy. The street the B&B is on is also very quiet. The downstairs suite is accessible through both the kitchen and through a private outside entrance, making it perfect for those who want privacy. It has two bedrooms, and a gas fireplace stove that heats the whole unit in a very short time.
The downstairs unit also has a nice sitting area with a desk that's perfect for the business traveler.
Joyce and Peter can work with you to plan the perfect event, and the house can hold up to 50 guests comfortably for a wedding and/or reception. The Earle Clarke House is a great choice for the Victoria visitor – quiet location, large, private accommodations, close to everything. And Joyce and Peter are a class act - they go out of their way for all their visitors, and are folks we'd gladly spend a lot more time with if we have the chance.
3930 Telegraph Bay Rd., Victoria, 250-721-3930, 877-264-9988 Max and Janet Anderson own this beautiful Victorian bed and breakfast in Cadboro Bay, about 15 minutes outside downtown Victoria by car, on the island’s eastern coast. From parts of the house, you can see the bay, which is full of boaters in the summer time. Max and Janet bought the house in 1998 and spent two years tearing it down to the studs, restoring it from top to bottom to its old-time glamour. The house boasts beautifully decorated interiors, furnished with original artworks, and is ideal for folks wanting something quiet but within an easy drive of all of Victoria’s tourist sights. It’s across the street from beach access, close to the Ten Mile Point – a scenic walking trail – and just half a mile from the University of Victoria, making it ideal for those visiting the university.
152 Joseph St., Victoria, 250-384-4351, 866-212-4022 Mike and Liz host you in this private bed and breakfast on a quiet tree-lined street on the southern side of Victoria. Both apartment suites are on the bottom floor – in fact, this craftsman home was actually raised to add the second level. Both units have keyless private entrances, so you can come and go in complete privacy. Breakfast is delivered to you in your room, and both units have kitchenettes. The owners stressed that they are very pet friendly, and especially welcome dogs to the B&B – in fact, you may be welcomed by Annabelle, the couple’s pet dog. The units are set up like small apartments, making them ideal for pet owners who want to settle in for a week or more. And the second unit is fully handicap accessible, with a step-in shower that has a wide seat providing access for travelers who use wheelchairs. It’s just a twenty minute walk or five minute drive into downtown Victoria, making this an ideal location for folks who like to see places on foot. 44 Simcoe St., Victoria, 250-384-3717 Ifanwen is in James Bay, the residential area just to the south and west of downtown – an easy 20 minute walk. The B&B is in a private neighborhood, and has a very casual feel – what we’d describe as a home stay – the owner is inviting you into his own home. This is the only gay-owned bed and breakfast in the downtown area, and is furnished with many of the owner’s mexican sculptures and artworks. Key features of this property are its affordability and great location close to most central attractions.
301 Kingston St., Victoria, 250-388-4565, 877-264-9988 Andersen House is owned by Max and Janet of Bay Breeze Manor, and was their first B&B. The house is a gorgeous 1891 Victorian, and is furnished in a similar style to the Bay Breeze. It has four rooms, which feature private entrances, eclectic artwork, TV’s, phones, and cd players. The largest suite is a very comfortable 700 square feet. The house also has a beautifully landscaped backyard, with curving brick paths, a wonderfully lush lawn, and a quiet sitting area. Also in James Bay, the house is just a 3 minute walk to downtown, so it fills up quickly for the summer months.
731 Vancouver St., Victoria, 250-385-2025, 800-661-1623 Another beautiful historic home on a quiet tree-lined street, Scholefield House is a Victorian home with modern amenities. The owners, George and Tana bought the home when it was a budget accommodation with five rooms, and reconfigured it with three rooms, all with bathrooms of their own. The B&B is famous for its five course breakfasts, and also features wireless internet access, and hot tub baths. The owners are very friendly and knowledgeable, and have performed a number of gay and lesbian weddings at the house. The B&B is in the downtown area, just a couple minutes' walk from all the downtown attractions and five minutes from beautiful Beacon Hill Park.
307 Catherine St., Victoria, 250-384-2739, 877-838-2739 Spinnakers was originally just a brewpub and restaurant with wonderful ocean views. Located in Esqualimat, just across the bridge from downtown, the property is an easy 20 minute walk to downtown – or catch a water taxi across to the Empress Hotel and other downtown attractions. Over time. The owner purchased several of the accommodations next to the restaurant, and the complex now has two victorian houses and one more modern apartment complex that offer single rooms or multiple room suites. The apartment grounds are lushly planted with an almost japanese feel. This was the largest property we visited, and would be a good choice for folks whoare looking for more of a hotel-like experience in what’s still a fairly small venue.
3158 Anders Rd., Victoria, 250-478-6821, 800-506-3306 Located in nearby Langford on Glen Lake, Cycle Inn is unique among the properties that we visited in that it’s on the Galloping Goose Trail – a 100 kilometer ( mile) trail that’s great for walking, cycling, or horseback riding, and that runs from Leechtown (northwest of Sooke) south through Sooke, Victoria, and up to Swartz Bay. The property is another homestay, but with a lake view out the back that’s to die for. As with Ifanwen, this B&B is very casual. The back yard’s currenly undergoing an overhaul, and when finished will be a beautiful lakeside place to relax. Langford is about 15 minutes from downtown Victoria by the highway, and is full of great sporting and outdoor exploration opportunities. And Cycle Inn is perfect for biking enthusiasts and folks just wanting a quiet, relaxing place to stay close to the sights but in a private neighborhood away from all the bustle. Victoria has hundreds of places to eat, and we sampled only a few. Here are the ones we tried: Zambri's 110-911 Yates Street, Victoria (just outside downtown), 250 360-1711 Partially lesbian owned, Zambris is a great italian restaurant just outside of downtown Victoria. Everything we had was excellent, including the Risotto (to die for) and the polenta lasagna. The wait staff were very friendly, and the décor was very nice.
450 Swift St., Victoria (downtown), 250 361-1940 This restaurant and brewpub has an outside deck, a pub, and a restaurant (though the brewpub serves the restaurant’s food after the restaurant closes). They have a great flat bread, which they serve with dips and on sandwiches – in particular, the bacon, lettuce, avacado and tomato sandwich with basil mayonaise was terrific. The views are great at night and good in the daytime – you’re looking across the water at an active wharf, so the night time view wins out here. The building is part of an old foundry, and has great high ceilings, antique brick and a casual warehouse feel. The Temple 525 Fort Street, Victoria (downtown), 250-383-2313 This restaurant specializes in small place meals – lie a tapas restaurant, but with an eclectic mix of seafood, meat, and vegetarian dishes. The night we went, most of the clientele was gay, and there’s a great double sofa table where you and your friends can recline in luxury while you dine. Thin Edge of the Wedge 1296 Gladstone Ave. (next to the Belfry Theater), Victoria, 250-386-8446 Just across the plaza from the Belfry is some of the best pizza in Victoria. Ok, so we didn’t actually try all the Pizza in Victoria, but the Pizza here was excellent – you can order by the slice or by the pie, but bring Canadian money, because this is one of the few places we found that wouldn’t give us the exchange rate.
Click On Any Picture To See More Victoria is full of great things to do and places to see – here are just a few of them that we tried and enjoyed:
1291 Gladstone Ave., Victoria, 250-385-6815 One of Canada’s best regional theaters, the Belfry puts on a number of wonderful plays every season. While we were there, the theater put on a new play called Rough Magic by John Lazarus, called Rough Magic. The play was inspired by a meeting between Marlon Brando and John Gielgud, a british actor. In the play, Sir Viv, the British actor, is a closeted gay man, and Clay Travis, the method actor, decides the characters in the Shakespeare play they are filming had a gay relationship. And being a method actur, he tries to live the part… The set design was also terrific, and all four actors were well worth seeing. Future productions include an improv version of a Christmas Carol that looks like a lot of fun, and runs from November 30th to Decmber 19th. If you're in Victoria for more than a day or two, make time to see a production here!
About 20 minutes north of downtown Victoria, 250-652-5256 This is on the top of many visitor’s lists to see when they come to Victoria, and the gardens are impressive – planted on the site of an old quarry, the sunken gardens here are striking, and the Japanese Garden is breathtaking in its simplicity. Just couple minor beefs here… very few of the plants are labeled as part of garden policy to keep it looking like an actual estate garden, and it would be nice to see what all the plants are. And the gardens are smaller than we thought they would be, making the $22 CDN price a little high. But they are beautiful, and worth the trip for anyone who enjoys botanical gardens. Also check out the nearby Butterfly Gardens.
At the Legislature Building on Menzies St., 250-383-5067, 866-383-5067 Tally Ho provides horse-drawn carriage and wagon rides starting at the the western edge of the Legislature building on Menzies Street and taking you along the edge of downtown, through Beacon Hill Park, and back up the coast on various length tours. The driver we rode with had many corny jokes (some of them actually fairly funny) and also gave us a lot of great historical information about Victoria and the many Heritage (historical) buildings there. Prices range from $15 per adult all the way up to $240 for a Romance Tour (100 minutes and six chocolate roses).
1050 Joan Crescent, Victoria, 250 592-5323 Built in the late 1800’s by coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, this 25,000 square foot castle occupies one of the highest points in Victoria. Robert Dunsmuir died shortly before the castle’s completion in 1889, but his wife lived there until her death in 1908. They had several daughters, and a son who moved to San Francisco (kind of makes you wonder). The castle is filled with wood floors, wood paneling on the walls and ceilings, and wood railings – the wood was shipped in from Chicago on five trains and then worked on-site. Craigdarroch also offers great views of downtown Victoria from the top floor observatory, And check out one of the daughter’s work list for her maids on the servent side of the Castle – you think we work hard today! Miniature World 649 Humboldt St., Victoria (downtown), 250 385-9731 We didn’t actually get to see this one, but it looked pretty cool – lots of miniature villages, scenes from literature, and the like. 470 Belleville St., Victoria (inner harbor), 250 388-4461 With historical replicas of famous Commonwealth and polical figures, celebrities, scientists and writers, and fairy tale characters, and a hall of horrors – just across from the Empress and the Legislature Building on the Inner Harbor. Undersea Museum 490 Belleville St., Victoria (inner harbor) 250-382-5717 An underwater aquarium, featuring local fish and an underwater show where a diver displays some of the more interesting sea life in the tank, including an octopus, a wolf eel, and a starfish. Royal British Columbia Museum 675 Belleville St., Victoria (downtown) 250-356-7226 Regrettably one of the things we didn't have time for, this museum has one of the best collections of native peoples art and historical artifacts in the world, as well as ongoing traveling and rotating displays - they had a display on Eternal Egypt while we were there. Beacon Hill Park http://www.beaconhillpark.com/ Beacon Hill Park is located along the south shore of Victoria, British Columbia and the Juan de Fuca Strait. It has been a park belonging to the city of Victoria since 1882. A trust was then established for the 62-acre (24.8-hectare) site - the largest park in Victoria. No businesses can set up in the park per the park's original charter; the pay phone is the only allowed violation, agreed to by the city for public safety purposes. The park is home to many Arbutus Trees - native evergreen trees that have many streets and other public areas named after them - they have a distinctive peeling bark that reveals a bright reddish trunk underneath. The Empress Hotel 721 Government Street, Victoria (inner harbor), 250-384-2747 Probably the most photographed building in Victoria (see the picture at the top of this Victoria section), the Empress (now a Fairmont hotel) was one of a series of chateau-style hotels build by the rail road barons in the late 1800's across Canada, and is simply a gorgrous building. Many fokks come here in the afternoons for High Tea - a little bit of Old England in the center of Victoria, on the inner harbor. But even if you don't, stop by to see this Grande Dame of Victorian architecture.
Government Street, Victoria (inner harbor) Another stunning building right across the street from the Empress Hotel on the inner harbor, the Parliament Building is the home of the BC Legislature. There are guided tours inside at regular intervals, or you can just wander about the building yourself and enjoy some of the beautiful murals inside. The building was built in the late 1800's, and has 33 green domes and a statue of Captain George Vancouver gilded in gold on the roof. The building is lit up with white lights at night, and is beautiful any time of the day.
Click On Any Picture To See More A few notes about shopping in Canada for visitors from other countries: the Canadian dollar is typically a little weaker than the US dollar, which means you can get some great buys in Canada. At the time we were there, the rate was about .77 US dollars to 1 Canadian, which means we got a 23% "discount" on all purchases. But if you're not a Canadian resident, you also have to declare them when you come back through customs, which can be a hassle, so consider having the shopkeeper ship them back to you at home - this also helps because you don't have to carry your purchases around. You're also eligible for a tax rebate from the Canadian government if you aren't a Canadian resident, and plan to take the item home with you to your own country. Basically you have to spend over $200 Canadian on qualifying goods and/or accommodations and at least $50 per receipt. For more informaton go here: http://victoria.rezrez.com/tax/index.htm Also, most places in BC take US dollars or Canadian dollars - if you give them US dollars, they convert the amount and give you the change in Canadian money, which can result in some strange situations, like when we bought some postcards with a US $20 and were given a Canadian $20 and some change in return. You can also take out Canadian money at any ATM using your US ATM card, and you can use your US credit card to pay for things - your credit card company will do the conversion for you. So go with your ATM and credit cards and some US cash, and just pick up a little Canadian money as you go. You may run into a few places that won't do the conversion, in which case you may end up paying the Canadian price in US dollars, so do get a little Canadian money when you arrive in Canada. There are some great places to go for shopping in downtown Victoria – including: Antique Row Fort Street – several blocks starting just in from the Marina. There are a ton of antique stores here – one of our innkeepers joked that Victoria was where antiques go to die. Many Canadians retire here, bringing their furniture with them, so you can find all kinds of things here. Mirage is gay owned. Designer Row Herald Street is on the northern edge of downtown, and is the design center of Victoria. Standouts here include: Urban Barn This is a great BC furniture and furnishings chain with a great selection of modern casual furniture and decorations for the home. Kinda like the Pottery Barn in the USA. Fat Cat Posters and prints on canvas, including many unique items, all at great low prices.
Right in front of Canoe, this is a huge, two-story store with tons and tons of indoor and outdoor furnishings, from the whimsical (tables whose legs are dressed in socks and high-heel shoes and hammers trimmed in rhinestones and feathers) to the sublime (beautiful home furnishings). A local chain (we also ran across one in Vancouver) it’s a fun store to check out while you’re in town.
1150 Douglas Street, Victoria (downtown), 250-952-5690 Ok, so it's just a shopping mall. But what a nice mall - and bonus - it's all indoors if it's cold or rainy out. Anchored by the Bay Company department store, the descendant of the original Hudson Bay Company (you probably read about their trapper outposts in North America in your high school history classes if you're in the US or Canada). This four story mall is worth at least a quick visit while you're in town.
Check out the GLBT owned Rubber Rainbow (#100-560 Johnson Street, Victoria (downtown), 250-388-3532 at Market Square (also some great shopping here). Also check out Kiss & Tell (531 Herald Street, Victoria (downtown), 250-380-6995) on Herald Street. |
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Salt Spring Island was settled in the sixties mostly by hippies and creative folks, and it still has a bit of that bohemian flair. The island is undergoing a spate of development efforts, but it’s still mostly forested and quiet. It's the place to go for a relaxing, contemplative vacation, when you want to get away from all the big city sounds and smells and just enjoy being for a few days. The island has very few places even big enough to qualify as one-horse towns – if you come in from Swartz Bay (Victoria) on the Ferry, you’ll find a small general store in Fulofurd Harbor on the south side of the island – great for a quick Oreo fix, but not much else. Same thing in Vesuvius (if you ferry over from Crofton farther up Vancouver Island).
Ganges has lots of cute boutiques, as well as the island’s practical shops (grocery, hardware, etc), and a few good restaurants too – if you plan to eat out while on island, you’ll probably do it here. The island has a thriving gay and lesbian community as well – not large, but well connected. Click On Any Picture To See More
163 Frazier Rd., Salt Spring Island, 250-653-4764 Our first lodging stop was here – this gay-friendly B&B in the middle of the island, just a few miles south of Ganges, features just one private self-contained suite, accessible via a natural path alongside the house. The suite is clean and spartan, includes two beds and a kitchenette, and opens up onto a very private back porch and garden often frequented by the local deer, and surrounded by pine trees. The owner, Christina, offers a full or continental breakfast, and is also starting to offer art workshops in the winter season. Artist’s Suite is perfect for folks who come to Salt Spring for the privacy and natural beauty the island offers, and for those who are interested in taking an art workshop.
100 Salt Spring Way, Salt Spring Island, 250-537-5087, 877-537-5087 This gay friendly b&b is also a little south of Ganges, and features two rooms with private entrances with nice views of Ganges Harbor. The property features a working orchard (cherry, apple, and quince trees), several goats, two cats, and original artwork. This is what we call a homestay, as mentioned in the Victoria section above. Guests share a bath, but you can also rent one room with the bath for a little more, and the owners will keep the second bedroom empty during your stay. For a treat, ask the innkeepers to make you a Cappuchino in the morning!
153 Rourke Rd, Salt Spring Island, 250-538-1811 One of two gay-owned bed and breakfasts we visited on Salt Spring, Birdsong is on the mainland side of the island, a little south of Ganges like the other two before, and has Ganges Harbor views to die for. The home is beautifully decorated, with the main common areas a soft yellow (almost mustard color that is extremely comforting. The kitchen is tiled in a mediterranean blue tile, which works beautifully with the other colors. Each of the guestrooms features a fireplace, and one of them has a beautiful bathtub in the room. Both have peaked roofs full of windows that have startlingly beautiful water views. The owners are from Vancouver – one was a teacher, and the other owned a chain of Vancouver clothing stores. They’re wonderful hosts, and are full of great island information. This property is perfect for folks who like a little more upscale feel, and want a spectacular view for their Salt Spring Island stay.
124 Webster Dr., Salt Spring Island, 250-653-2015 This gay-owned, adult-oriented b&b is just a little more rustic than Birdsong, and has Fulford Harbor Views from the living room and deck of the main house. The interior decorating is modern and sleek, and there’s a large screen TV for guest use. The two bedrooms in the main house are elegantly decorated, and share a bathroom; the property also has a self-contained cabin with full kitchen available for rent. The beds are very comfortable. There’s a jacuzzi below the main deck with great forest views. The lodging sits far back from the street on a four acre lot, and the whole thing is forested, giving it a cabin feel. Located on the south side of the island, this is the closest of the accommodations we visited to Fulford Harbor. The owner opened the bed and breakfast 10 months ago, and has about 60% gay clientele. This is great for folks who want a quiet getaway in a beautiful gay-owned b&b on the island.
Click On Any Picture To See More Cuisine is a little more limited on Salt Spring Island, but we found a few places with innkeeper help:
133 Lower Ganges Road, Ganges, Salt Spring Island, 250-538-5551 This was the only place we ate out on-island – we were only there one night. The restaurant boasts great Ganges Harbor views, and the food was excellent – they have a nice mix of cuisines, including italian, thai, and west-coast. Recommended by several local innkeepers, Calvin’s lived up to the hype.
106 Purvis Lane, Ganges, Salt Spring Island, 250-537-5379 Another innkeeper recomendation - though we didn't eat here, it's another cute place right on the water.
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A cute little sea town with a small downtown district, Chemainus is a great place to stop for a bit of shopping or a quick lunch on the way up or down island, or to relax and spend a couple quiet nights. It’s just a few minutes north of the ferry from Salt Spring Island that comes into Crofton.
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10025 Beach Dr., Chemainus, 250-416-0175 Our first Lesbian Owned bed and breakfast on this trip, By the Beach is a beautifully decorated B&B with amazing Stuart Strait view, and features one of two pools we saw on the trip, as well as a fantastic terraced deck. Opened in April 2004, the owners just completed their first summer in Chemainus, and were almost full for most of the season. By the Beach has two self-contained suites with bathrooms, and also offers access to a private beach with an oyster reef and tidepools begging for exploration. This is a great choice for anyone staying in south-central Vancouver Island, especially folks coming over to Nanaimo or Crofton on the ferry. This city is a little larger than Chemainus, and was founded by James Dunsmuir, son of the coal baron who built the Craigdarroch Castle in Victoria. The city has a nice long downtown district that has a number of cute restaurants and shops. Wayne at Bayview Chateau tells us that gay and lesbian folks are a regular part of the community – in fact, they can often be found holding hands in the local sports pub, and no one bats an eye.
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464 Battie Dr., Ladysmith, 250-245-8334 Jasmine and Wayne run this gay friendly bed and breakfast (about 50% gay/lesbian clientele). Jasmine’s a real renaissance woman – she built the house, an impressive four-bedroom accommodation atop a hill with wonderful Strait of Georgia view, with a rock fountain that trickles along the driveway. She also rebuilds old pianos, and plays for guests in the evening on a beautiful church organ on the bottom floor (the pipes are in the basement). She also makes doll houses and converts antique lamps from oil to electric. The home is beautiful, and features a nicely landscaped back yard with a waterfall and a clothing-optional jacuzzi. They’re thinking of adding a badminton court, but for the moment the yard slopes naturally up to the treeline. There are great walking trails just behind the house, and it’s just a short drive to downtown Ladysmith. Great for anyone visiting or passing through Ladysmith. Although we didn’t visit any accommodations in Nanaimo, the second largest city on Vancouver Island deserves mention. This is where the ferry leaves to West Vancouver, the choice departure/arrival destination for folks coming to and from downtown Vancouver and the West End, where Davie Street is. Nanaimo also has a sizeable old downtown – we had lunch here at a place called Charlies – the food was decent, and the people watching was great – the restaurant is in an old garage with roll-up doors that have been replaced with roll-up windows, so we sat next to the sidewalk and watched the action. You can easily spend several hours wandering downtown Nanaimo, so set aside a little extra time for this one while going up or down island. There are also several malls here – if you forgot it at home, you can probably buy it in Nanaimo. One of our readers also tells us that Nanaimo also has the only gay bar on Vancouver Island north of Victoria - 70-below. Thanks, Victor! Half an hour up the coast from Nanaimo, this is another little seaside community. It has a small, easily walkable downtown, and a nice beachside park which would be perfect for a picnic lunch.
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5101 Island Hwy W., Qualicum Beach, 250-752-9278, 877-752-9278 This oceanfront gay-friendly property features three bed and breakfast units and three self-catering apartment suites (though you can add breakfast in these suites for an extra fee). The décor is very simple and unusual, with an asian flair, and the water views (Bahari means By Water in Swahili) are divine. There’s a broad swath of lawn in the back yard, and a wooded path leads out to a gazebo overlooking the water, where you can soak in the jacuzzi while you take in the Strait of Georgia Views. The property is 250 feet above the water, and has beach access. The B&B offers a family-style breakfast. Great for visitors to the central island who want views, and who want a nice room in a b&b or a private-entry apartment suite. These two cities are close to Mount Washington skiing, and are on the water. They’re the largest towns north of Nanaimo, and have some great local eateries and shopping. Courtenay is the larger of the two, and also has some great golf courses.
Kenya Cottage B&B 5976 Aldergrove Dr, Courtenay, 250-338-8235, 877-338-8235 Click On Any Picture To See More
Brian’s parents built the house in the fifties, and Brian and Rick added on to the house just a few years ago during an extensive remodel.
But what immediately draws your eyes is the fantastic view from the living room out across the Georgia Strait - at night you can see the lights of Powell River directly across the water. The entire common area is gorgeous - and by the way, the TV in the living room gets PrideVision, the gay Canadian TV station which also features gay and lesbian adult movies on various nights after 10 PM. The small study/library at the front of the house has an internet hook-up (ethernet) for your use at a small secretary desk. And the dining room, where you'll have breakfast in the morning, also shares the fantastic views.
Kenya Cottage has only one suite, so you have lots of privacy, and the owners' quarters are on the far side of the house. The suite is spacious, and features a huge bathroom with both a shower and a jacuzzi tub, elegantly tiled, again in warm earthtone colors. The bed was very comfortable, and there’s also a television and a huge, cushy chair.
The room has a deck with your own private jacuzzi. Take a naked dip in the jacuzzi in the early evening and the only ones who’ll see you are the fish.
We went to sleep looking at the lights of Powell River across the strait, and awoke to the early morning light – reds and golds fading into soft blues – above the water. Both Brian and Rick come from customer service and hospitality backgrounds, and service is everything here. They have only one guest room, so they can focus their full attention on their guests, but you also have a wonderful feeling of privacy in your suite.
You’re awakened by a knock on the door at your specified time, and morning tea is served before breakfast in the living room.
Kenya Cottage combines elegance, comfort, service and privacy in a way you seldom see in a bed and breakfast, and is a great choice for the straight or gay traveler visiting central Vancouver Island.
2900 Mission Rd, Courtenay, 250-334-9411 One of two gay-owned B&B’s we visited in Courtenay, Mission Ridge targets mainly a gay clientele, though they also welcome open-minded straight folks. Bill and Hallmuth are great guys, and welcomed us warmly when we stopped by. The house is beautifully decorated – men, ask for the Under the Rainbow room – the gay art is fantastic, and the room is beautiful. The B&B is on a private street with five acres, including a great pool area with Strait of Georgia Views, a jacuzzi, and a barbeque. The home also features a fireside pool table and a home theater. They provide a high level of service, and can help you with dinner reservations and activity ideas for Courtenay and the rest of central and northern Vancouver Island. This is a great place to stay for gay and lesbian (and friendly straight) travelers, with womderful hosts and a location that’s central to both Courtenay and Comox.
1951 Singing Sands Rd, Comox, 250-339-3552 Singing Sands Bed and Breakfast offers ocean view accommodation in the beautiful Little River area of Comox, on Vancouver Island in beautiful British Columbia. offering comfortable accommodation and friendly hospitality. Your hosts, Gail and Mark Hill, invite you to their relaxed, warm and comfortable home just a few steps away from the beach. A tranquil, relaxed stay is assured in this beautiful, quiet location. Short drive to Comox and Courtenay sights and shopping. No ocean view, but close to the water.
5782 Coral Rd, Courtenay, 250-898-8702, 866-898-8702 This remodelled house in the Bates Beach area has three large guestrooms with all the amenities - TV, VCR, in room refrigerator, and full bath. The property features panoramic views of the Strait of Georgia and Powell River at night. The property has a beautiful waterfront lawn, and is close to kayak and boat rentals and just a short drive from Mount Washington skiing. Just 10-15 minute drive from this quiet waterfront property to central Courtenay. Atlas Cafe 250 6th St. Courtenay, 250-338-9838 We had dinner here with the innkeepers from Mission Ridge and Kenya Cottage, and the food was really good – Mark had the burrito, and Scott had a Chicken Quesidilla. The décor was nice as well, and the streetfront table made for great people watching.
Here are a few resources we found helpful during our visit to Victoria, Salt Spring Island, and central Vancouver Island:
We favor small, easy-to-carry travel guides with lots of photos - we want something we can flip through and find attractions in easily, rather than a large guide full of nothing but text (ok, so call us shallow <grin>). We found a great book for this trip - Michelin's Vancouver Must Sees. At just over 120 pages, it's easy to carry and easy on the pocketbook (just $9.95 US). And though it's mainly a Vancouver guide, it has decent sections on Victoria, Whistler, and Vancouver Island as well. Plus there's even a gay nightlife section for Vancouver - all in all a handy resource for your BC trip. Vancouver Island Pink Pages http://www.gayvictoria.ca/pinkpages/ A great local resource for gay friendly and gay owned businesses in Victoria and on Vancouver Island. Victoria Attractions Association http://www.attractionsvictoria.com Thank you also to the Victoria Attractions Association for providing us with a media passport that allowed us to preview many of these fine attractions. Check out their website for lots of great things to do in Victoria And when you take the ferry, remember to check the sitting areas - this is a great place to find brochures for all kinds of great activities during your trip. |
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Here are the current inns we have listed for sale - wanna become an innkeeper? :) Add your inn at: http://www.purpleroofs.com/forsaleform.html
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Section 1: EDITOR'S NOTES
Michelin's Vancouver Must Sees